Clutch replacement questions...

[Tim G]

Hi, please excuse me for using this forum just for technical help, my business is more involved with vintage american cars but one of my customers has a 68 series II 4.2L E-type and the clutch has gone, i said i would do it for him if possible... if i do it i'll ask him to get a manual of some kind but basically my questions are...

what roughly is involved with replacing the clutch, does the gearbox drop down or is it an engine out job?

Is there a crank oil seal that's worth replacing at the same time?

an where is the best place to get the parts from price and quality wise?

As you can see i know nothing about E-types :)

Thanks

[1954Etype]

Hi, please excuse me for using this forum just for technical help, my business is more involved with vintage american cars but one of my customers has a 68 series II 4.2L E-type and the clutch has gone, i said i would do it for him if possible... if i do it i'll ask him to get a manual of some kind but basically my questions are...

what roughly is involved with replacing the clutch, does the gearbox drop down or is it an engine out job?

Is there a crank oil seal that's worth replacing at the same time?

an where is the best place to get the parts from price and quality wise?

As you can see i know nothing about E-types :)

Thanks

Tim, if you don't know the E Type, I wouldn't do the job as there is a lot of things to consider. Basically it is an engine out procedure which will mean removing the torsion bar reaction plate. None of this is difficult but unless you know what you are doing, you could be well out of pocket financially! If you are set on doing the job, I would recommnd investing in a manual (available on CD via eBay) - otherwise you will spend too much time on forums waiting for answers.

[christopher storey]

It is a major job which as Angus says, requires the bonnet off and the engine and gearbox (which together weigh about 680 lbs) out of the car. If you do decide to do it, it is less hazardous to remove carbs and inlet manifold ,alternator etc , drop the engine out downwards and then to lift the car up and wheel the engine out forwards. Replacing the rear main seal is a major job requiring flywheel off, sump off , and seal housing off , and if you are going to do it properly really needs the crankshaft out as well because the rope seal has to be sized with a special tool ( although some engine builders say it can safely be done using the crank to size it , and in fact I have done it that way, so far without mishap) which requires a complete stripdown because of the timing chains at the front . As far as parts are concerned, SNG Barratt at Bridgnorth , David Manners in Birmingham , or Hutson's in Bradford are all very reputable parts stockists. Note that you need the 9.5 inch diaphragm clutch for all 4.2 engined cars

[Tim G]

Thank you very much for your input guys, that's enough to put me off!

[Heuer]

Tim

As everyone says - don't do it on a commercial basis. Even getting the bonnet to fit properly afterwards can be a nightmare unless you follow the correct procedure. Suggest you refer your customer to an E-Type specialist and depending on where the car is we may be able to suggest someone.

[Tim G]

Thanks David, the car is in Stamford, South Lincolnshire.

[Heuer]

Closest people to you I know of and who will do a superb job are:
Series 1 E-Type Spares & Restoration Tel: 01709 838352, Alma Court, Alma Rd, Rotherham, South Yorkshire S60 2HZ

[paulj]

Hi Tim
try Barry Hodson Twyford Nr Melton Mowbray
E Type and Jags are their speciality, they set my suspension front and rear
castor camber ride height, perfect for ?300
they produce some fantastic rebuilds
regards Paul

[paulj]

Hi again
Barry's tel no 01664 840687
hope this helps regards Paul

[Doug Foulds]

Sorry to jump in on this thread but I'm in a similar situation.
My rear seal has been getting progressively worse to the extent that I'm now getting excessive clutch slip. I have a local garage that does all the basic work and seems to be keen to have a go at the clutch and seal but reading this thread I would probably be better taking it to a specialist. Can anyone recomend someone in the north west, I'm near Lancaster.
Cheers
Doug (I'm a Newby)

[Heuer]

CMC did my rear seal - they are based in Shropshire.

[Doug Foulds]

Thanks David,
Did you take the car to them or can they arrange pick up. I'd drive it there but it's not too good with hills at the moment
Don't suppose you could give me a ball-park figure on costs?
Cheers Doug

[Moeregaard]

To answer Tim's question: Everyone provided excellent advice regarding E-Type clutch replacement. Most of us discover other things down there when the engine/gearbox are removed, so I wouldn't recommend taking on the job unless your customer is ready to spend a lot of money, or you are willing to take the financial beating. If you do decide to do it, lowering the drivetrain and separating the components under the car works best. To remove the bonnet without losing alignment, remove the two 3/8" bolts securing it to the subframe. Do not molest any of the bolts retaining the brackets to the bonnet or alignment will be lost, and getting this right is not a fun job.

[Heuer]

Doug

1. Collection will be about ?300 in their covered transporter.
2. Remove engine - 6.75 hours
3. Replace rear crank seal and check big ends - 7 hours
4. Refit engine - 7 hours

Factor in removing and refitting bonnet, cleaning the engine, splitting the box off, removing/fitting interior trim and exhaust, road testing etc etc

Labour ?44/hour. The above would be the minimum time required assuming they don't find anything else untoward. My guess would be ?3,500 including parts and VAT.

[1954Etype]

Thanks David,
Did you take the car to them or can they arrange pick up. I'd drive it there but it's not too good with hills at the moment
Don't suppose you could give me a ball-park figure on costs?
Cheers Doug

I know I am becoming boringly repetitive here but are you sure you have adjusted your clutch at the slave cylinder end properly?

[Doug Foulds]

Thanks David, excellent advice.
As for adjusting the clutch, I must admit I haven't tried it. The pedal has been at the top of the travel but when I spotted oil spray on my nice new drive just where the flywheel was, I thought the seal had taken a turn for the worse. Shortly after that the clutch started slipping badly. I suppose it has to be worth a try, and might save on the transport at least.
thanks again for the advice .