Good question.
I didn't do the maths *, but which ever charts you look at, at the recommended NGK tightening figure of 30Nm or 22 ft.lbs for 14mm plugs, it appears that we are already putting a figure of between 2.100 lbs and 2.800 lbs stretch on what is effectively a bolt.
I think that suggests we apply a one-tonne pull on the plug thread every time we tighten it.
So I'm happy with it, although lifting on just one might feel like tempting providence !
* - I cheated by approximating around the 9/16" x 18 TPI shown on these tables, other ones and tabulators I looked at seemed to be of that order of magnitude too.
Engine hoist load leveller
#41 Re: Engine hoist load leveller
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#42 Re: Engine hoist load leveller
The most horrible aspect of these cheapo engine-cranes, and many other unspeakable hydraulic devices from the Far East, is the fact that the bleed or lowering valve is generally operated by the end of the operating arm.
I see that nothing much has changed in 40 years since my first jack ; you are expected to get this slotted tube over the T-piece, and adjust the bleed by rotating a bit of 20mm pipe two feet long.
They must really think we're stupid. Really stupid.
Here's an easy tweak.
Remove the T-valve and put a bolt in its place to stem the leak.
I wasn't wholly confident how the nose of this did the business, and it was surprisingly well machined in comparison with the rest of the junk construction, so I elected to modify it rather than make another, longer, one.
Knock out the cross-piece, and bore a 5mm hole down the valve about 6mm deep.
Turn a nose on a similar bolt - I used an M10 socket-screw with a bit of parallel shank.
Push the two together with a bit of flux and Sif-bronze them together.
Add a suitable knob.
Should be a million times easier to operate, and also easier to dose more gently.
I see that nothing much has changed in 40 years since my first jack ; you are expected to get this slotted tube over the T-piece, and adjust the bleed by rotating a bit of 20mm pipe two feet long.
They must really think we're stupid. Really stupid.
Here's an easy tweak.
Remove the T-valve and put a bolt in its place to stem the leak.
I wasn't wholly confident how the nose of this did the business, and it was surprisingly well machined in comparison with the rest of the junk construction, so I elected to modify it rather than make another, longer, one.
Knock out the cross-piece, and bore a 5mm hole down the valve about 6mm deep.
Turn a nose on a similar bolt - I used an M10 socket-screw with a bit of parallel shank.
Push the two together with a bit of flux and Sif-bronze them together.
Add a suitable knob.
Should be a million times easier to operate, and also easier to dose more gently.
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#43 Re: Engine hoist load leveller
Rory, as ever a lovely well executed mod to something that's been annoying many of us for years but in fairness to our Far East suppliers, I suspect that all they did was copy a poor bit of UK or European design on a cheap piece of hydraulics from 50 years ago.rfs1957 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 01, 2020 8:34 pmThe most horrible aspect of these cheapo engine-cranes, and many other unspeakable hydraulic devices from the Far East, is the fact that the bleed or lowering valve is generally operated by the end of the operating arm.
I see that nothing much has changed in 40 years since my first jack ; you are expected to get this slotted tube over the T-piece, and adjust the bleed by rotating a bit of 20mm pipe two feet long.
They must really think we're stupid. Really stupid.
John
1969 Series 2 FHC
1969 Series 2 FHC
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#44 Re: Engine hoist load leveller
That’s the thing about Rory’s projects.
I always end up thinking “why the hell have I put up with that over the decades...”.
I always end up thinking “why the hell have I put up with that over the decades...”.
Series 2 FHC 1970
1R 20607
1R 20607
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