Adjusting drivers door shut line
-
Topic author - Posts: 520
- Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:49 pm
- Location: West Sussex
#1 Adjusting drivers door shut line
Just noticed that my drivers door is now just touching when first opening the back edge of the bonnet / wing, how do I adjust this out to stop it damaging the paint further. Do I need some shims under the hinge plate to push it slightly further back or is there a better way of resolving this ?
Mike,
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
#2 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Hi Mike,
The forward and back adjustment requires the removal of the door cards to gain access to the four countersunk bolts that attach the hinges to the doors. There is some up and down adjustment on these too. No shims are used on the door hinges.
The in and out adjustment and to a small extent up and down adjustment of the doors is done on the four bolts that attach the hinge to the A post.
There will possibly be two large self tappers in the hinge/door that Jaguar installed to lock the hinges in place once the final adjustment was done. You will need to remove these to allow the hinge to slide on the door.
For fine adjustment like yours, I found drilling two 3mm holes through the hinge and door and inserting 2mm drill bits or rivet shafts worked well to limit the movement of the door to a millimetre or so rather than it going completely out of adjustment. You can then use these holes for self tappers if the originals are missing or no longer line up.
Another trick is to pack the bottom of the door on the sill and adjust the door while it is shut.
Always open the door VERY slowly and carefully and keep checking clearances as it is all too easy to chip the paint off if it is too tight to the A post.
Also check as the door is moved backwards it doesn't hit the door striker and damage the paint. You may need to remove a door striker shim.
The forward and back adjustment requires the removal of the door cards to gain access to the four countersunk bolts that attach the hinges to the doors. There is some up and down adjustment on these too. No shims are used on the door hinges.
The in and out adjustment and to a small extent up and down adjustment of the doors is done on the four bolts that attach the hinge to the A post.
There will possibly be two large self tappers in the hinge/door that Jaguar installed to lock the hinges in place once the final adjustment was done. You will need to remove these to allow the hinge to slide on the door.
For fine adjustment like yours, I found drilling two 3mm holes through the hinge and door and inserting 2mm drill bits or rivet shafts worked well to limit the movement of the door to a millimetre or so rather than it going completely out of adjustment. You can then use these holes for self tappers if the originals are missing or no longer line up.
Another trick is to pack the bottom of the door on the sill and adjust the door while it is shut.
Always open the door VERY slowly and carefully and keep checking clearances as it is all too easy to chip the paint off if it is too tight to the A post.
Also check as the door is moved backwards it doesn't hit the door striker and damage the paint. You may need to remove a door striker shim.
Simon
1969 S2 OTS
1969 S2 OTS
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
#3 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
This problem could be caused by the door hinge becoming slightly seized. It causes the door frame to slightly bend where the hinge fits before it actually opens. I'd check and lubricate before altering adjustment.
Derek
64 ser 1 fhc, 71 ser 3 2+2. Ser 3 now sold, looking for a new toy to keep Ser 1 company
64 ser 1 fhc, 71 ser 3 2+2. Ser 3 now sold, looking for a new toy to keep Ser 1 company
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
#4 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Good point Derek, definitely worth a look first. Be very careful until you have solved the problem. It looks like the damage at the moment will polish out but once the paint chips, it's much harder to fix.
Let us know how you get on.
Simon
Simon
1969 S2 OTS
1969 S2 OTS
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
-
Topic author - Posts: 520
- Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:49 pm
- Location: West Sussex
#5 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Thanks guys.
I will try the lubricating the hinge first to see if it will make any difference and solve the problem
Failing that then I will need to adjust it, what worries me is that the door does not have a lot of space on the back or front edge gaps to move the alignment, so just stopping to think a little more about this, would it be better to move the bonnet forwards slightly ?
I will try the lubricating the hinge first to see if it will make any difference and solve the problem
Failing that then I will need to adjust it, what worries me is that the door does not have a lot of space on the back or front edge gaps to move the alignment, so just stopping to think a little more about this, would it be better to move the bonnet forwards slightly ?
Mike,
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
#6 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Mike, I'm confused (not hard I know!). The leading edge of the door shuts against the A pillar and not the bonnet (unless you have had yours extensively modified). That being the case, the way we fit doors is to put a piece of paper between the 2 edges and close the door slowly. If the paper goes tight, it will rub. Originally you would see a slightly bigger gap in the front of the door than the rear.
HTH
Angus
HTH
Angus
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047
61 OTS 875047
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
-
Topic author - Posts: 520
- Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:49 pm
- Location: West Sussex
#7 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Hi Angus,
No it's me that's was'nt thinking straight first thing in the morning
You are quite right, I will probably need to adjust the door correctly, thanks for the tip on the paper for gapping as I was wondering how to get it right without guesswork.
No it's me that's was'nt thinking straight first thing in the morning
You are quite right, I will probably need to adjust the door correctly, thanks for the tip on the paper for gapping as I was wondering how to get it right without guesswork.
Mike,
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
-
- Posts: 1300
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:26 pm
- Location: Boston UK
#8 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Just one little thing to check.
Can the door come "outwards" a little bit using the A pillar hinge bolts.?
If so, so might not have to remove your door card to make the adjustment.
Check by looking directly from above or feel if the door sits too far inwards from the A Pillar with your fingers.
It could be out at the top, or the bottom, or both, or neither.
If it is a mm or 2mm too far in this could be your problem and would cause the rubbing shown.
Dont forget to loosen only 3 pillar bolts and rotate the door on the 4th a- pillar bolt. Then it wont drop (hopefully).
Can the door come "outwards" a little bit using the A pillar hinge bolts.?
If so, so might not have to remove your door card to make the adjustment.
Check by looking directly from above or feel if the door sits too far inwards from the A Pillar with your fingers.
It could be out at the top, or the bottom, or both, or neither.
If it is a mm or 2mm too far in this could be your problem and would cause the rubbing shown.
Dont forget to loosen only 3 pillar bolts and rotate the door on the 4th a- pillar bolt. Then it wont drop (hopefully).
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
-
Topic author - Posts: 520
- Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:49 pm
- Location: West Sussex
#9 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
James,
Looking at it from above the door is sitting 1-2 mm in from the bulkhead line so it needs to come out a little so this would resolve it I think, so out of the four pillar bolts holding the hinge which one would you not undo so that I can adjust it and it does'nt drop ?
Clearly this door has not been refitted correctly after a full back to bare body respray done in the last 18 months.
Looking at it from above the door is sitting 1-2 mm in from the bulkhead line so it needs to come out a little so this would resolve it I think, so out of the four pillar bolts holding the hinge which one would you not undo so that I can adjust it and it does'nt drop ?
Clearly this door has not been refitted correctly after a full back to bare body respray done in the last 18 months.
Mike,
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
1970 S2 FHC 2R28165
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
#10 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Hi Mike,
I have done this many times during my restoration.
I would suggest that if you want to move the top out, you leave the bottom outside bolt tight and loosen the others, if it’s the bottom you want to move out then keep the top outside bolt tight.
This is far easier to do with the door card off.
With the three bolts loosened, carefully close the door and tap the door outwards with the palm of your hand until you are happy and then do the other bolts back up with the door closed.
Paul
I have done this many times during my restoration.
I would suggest that if you want to move the top out, you leave the bottom outside bolt tight and loosen the others, if it’s the bottom you want to move out then keep the top outside bolt tight.
This is far easier to do with the door card off.
With the three bolts loosened, carefully close the door and tap the door outwards with the palm of your hand until you are happy and then do the other bolts back up with the door closed.
Paul
65 Series 1 FHC, 68 Jaguar 340
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |
-
- Posts: 1300
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:26 pm
- Location: Boston UK
#11 Re: Adjusting drivers door shut line
Agreed!
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Link: | |
BBcode: | |
HTML: | |
Hide post links |