Which seal to use on sump gasket

[caveman]

Once fitted in the seal recess just a small excess at each end was apparent
I did not trim it and think that doing so will mean you have the joy of removing the sump once more.

I think your neoprene seal must have been a lot shorter if you only had a small excess at each end. I have an inch (25mm) at each side which, in itself, will cause another oil leak as this amount of excess won't be compressible.

In the mean time I have emailed the supplier to ask the question.

[PeterCrespin]

Your 4.2 should not have had a cork seal.

I would not fit the seal back to front like that.

1: Flat surface tacked securely into the sump groove, with side ribs squeezing sideways on the groove wall under pressure when fitted. No chance of failing to locate in groove during sump fitment.

2: Offer up sump with attached seal so that there is nothing to locate precisely during sump installation. The twin ribs can seal in any position on the smooth seal carrier.

[mtnjag]

My supplier told me to cut mine. He was wrong so be careful with those guys.

[tim wood]

Tony,
I’ve just read your post again. 5cm does seem a lot of excess. Mine was probably half old that when compared to the old oil soaked and broken cork seal.

I have a picture which shows the comparison between old and new, if I can find it I will post it here.
My kit of gaskets came with both types of rear end seal ( cork and neoprene) both were exactly the same size.

Tim

[tim wood]

https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php ... 0&start=40

This thread is worth reading. It’s mostly about front crank oil seal but some mention of cork vs neoprene at the rear end.

[caveman]

So I contacted the UK supplier and they have replied to say that I do indeed need to cut it down to fit? ( I guess this is an after market seal then and not advertised as such!). I have ordered an OEM seal to compare and fit, all being well.

Thanks for the advice Peter, I wasn't sure if the twin ribs sat in the sump or up against the journal/carrier but you have answered my query (twin ribs - upper most). Strangely the seal naturally curves with the thicker twin grooves - bottom most. The photo was for length reference but good spot!

Would you recommend a smear of sealant along the twin grooves prior to fitment, or let it do its thing??

Cork is for wine. Nitrile rubber is for petrochemicals and crumbles not at all.

Agreed! The cork seal was fitted by VSE back in 1999 when the car was restored (46K miles - now 50K). It'll be more when I get it to E-60 next year from Highlands!

Thanks again for all your replies, very much appreciated.

[tim wood]

Just a couple of thoughts,
Have you considered taking the baffle out of the sump and clearing the gunge that maybe present
What about changing the front crank oil seal whilst it’s all apart. Cheap item but maybe worthwhile.

Umm, maybe then you could change the oil sump return hose and the fan belt may as well do the.........
All ends up as shipwrights disease!

Tim

[caveman]

Like minds Tim. Baffle out this morning and clean as a bell.

The front main seal was dry so I'm leaving it be for the minute, a smear of sealant will go on when sump is re-fitted. So new rear OEM seal arrived this morning, the OEM seal fits perfect....

20200924_110541.jpg (33.94 KiB) Viewed 1774 times

Q. Referring to the picture below....The sump gaskets (both sides) sit over the rear seal channel, pushing the seal out. I can clearly see that the opposite end of the sump gasket has a cut-out to fit around front main seal nicely. Any advice? Both the original sump gaskets and replacement are identical.

20200924_110456.jpg (24.34 KiB) Viewed 1774 times

[tim wood]

From what I recall my sump gasket had a cut out around the seal for the front end but not for the rear neoprene seal and overlapped the seal edge.
I think I stuck it to the crankcase using a sealer recommend by Andrew Bowie who posts on this forum.
Used a bit of wynns gasket maker to “glue” the seal into the sump recess and left it to set overnight. Then up it went.

I’ve used wynns gasket maker on other seals and it is so efficient that getting them separate again is almost impossible which is why I didn’t use it on the sump.

Others may chime in.

Good news that no stray bits in your sump!

What a time consuming job this is for something which should be simple

( disappointing that your original neoprene seal was not the correct length)

[caveman]

All the time in the world at the moment as weather is turning cooler up north. It also gives me chance to replace the odd bolt and washer(s).

I have Wynns sealer and I plan to fix long gaskets to block face first. The sump will then go up and the rear seal will mate directly onto them (ends) with more sealer.

I've added photo of seals for others to compare when also in this situation.

[mtnjag]

Congratulations on pursuing the solution Steve. Based on that OEM seal you were dead right. Good reason to get OEM whenever possible. Just went through a similar result on a turn signal switch repair.

Layne