I’m changing my diff this winter so I need to drop the IRS.
I’ve done this a couple of times before over the years so I’m aware of the process and issues but this time I want to try something different.
If I remove the drive shafts completely ( which I need to do anyway) I can then gain access to the tail end of the radius arms and unbolt there thus leaving the arms in place on the car whilst I complete the rest of the job.
I want to do it this way to avoid having to take out the seats to get a spanner on the internal bolt head fixing the radius arm securing strap.
I’m sure that a reason will exist why this can’t be done but I’m interested to hear views.
Tim
IRS removal
#1 IRS removal
Series 1 FHC purchased 40 years ago. Courted my wife in it.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
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#2 Re: IRS removal
Hi Tim...you dont need to remove the drive shafts to get to the rear bolt for the radius arm...however leaving them attached to the car they will get in the way when you try to drop the irs.....you will have to pull them out of the way and im not sure if there is enough movement in them....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: IRS removal
Thanks Steve,
I’m going to give it a good look over tomorrow
Tim
I’m going to give it a good look over tomorrow
Tim
Series 1 FHC purchased 40 years ago. Courted my wife in it.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.
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#4 Re: IRS removal
Whether you can remove the rear radius arm bolt without removing the hub carrier from the lower wishbone depends on the age of the car. On the early type, the bolt goes from the outside of the car inward, so the hub carrier needs to be off to fit it. Some time in S2 production I think, the design was changed so the bolt faces outwards and the lower wishbone was threaded. This is the style with the odd shaped bolt head required to clear the lower damper mount tube.
On my S2 FHC, I didn’t need to remove the seats to undo the safety strap bolts. Sliding the seat forward was sufficient.
On my S2 FHC, I didn’t need to remove the seats to undo the safety strap bolts. Sliding the seat forward was sufficient.
Tom
1970 S2 FHC
1970 S2 FHC
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#5 Re: IRS removal
Hi Tim,
Re - “I want to do it this way to avoid having to take out the seats to get a spanner on the internal bolt head fixing the radius arm securing strap.”
On mine, I simply cut a slot in the end of the bolt so that I can use a flathead screwdriver to prevent the bolt from turning whilst I undo the nut with a ring spanner. I’ve removed my IRS twice now and everything comes out like a dream.
Cheers.
Simon.
Re - “I want to do it this way to avoid having to take out the seats to get a spanner on the internal bolt head fixing the radius arm securing strap.”
On mine, I simply cut a slot in the end of the bolt so that I can use a flathead screwdriver to prevent the bolt from turning whilst I undo the nut with a ring spanner. I’ve removed my IRS twice now and everything comes out like a dream.
Cheers.
Simon.
Simon
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer
62 3.8 FHC
91 Porsche 928GT
Find me on Instagram and Facebook @oldcarfixer
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