Heater box flap removal

[Rusty]

I apologize up front as a search for this issue only shows two posts, one saying it has already been answered. However, It does not show the post with the answer. That being said, my newly acquired 1969 S2 is in dire need of a heater box refurbish. The inside is rusted but fixable. All seals and felt pads are long gone. The problem I have is how to remove the flap and thus the flap rod. I have the outer panel off of the box and see that there is a bolt locking a clamp holding the flap to the rod. No wrench or socket will fit onto the head of this bolt as it is right next to the raised portion of the clamp. Needless to say that room is very tight to get anything inside that box. Anyone have a suggestion?

[Gfhug]

Rusty, welcome to the forum. Have you got to this stage shown in post 47?
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php? ... 2&start=40
I presume the box is off the car and you can manoeuvre the flap to get to both sides?
Sorry, don’t know the size of spanner/socket but a small, flexible drive on a socket should help.

Good look

Geoff

[Rusty]

Rusty, welcome to the forum. Have you got to this stage shown in post 47?
http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php? ... 2&start=40
I presume the box is off the car and you can manoeuvre the flap to get to both sides?
Sorry, don’t know the size of spanner/socket but a small, flexible drive on a socket should help.

Good look

Geoff

No, the box is still installed. I did see a picture that someone posted with the heater coil (Matrix?) removed and it appears to afford much more room to get at that bolt head. However, the only thing I was trying to accomplish was to get the flap workable and not take the whole thing apart. But that may be my only solution. If so, I will put that off until I really need a reason to do that. I will be putting it away for the winter here in the next couple days so will wait until spring. I do know that the heater valve leaks when I open it (thankfully stops when I close it) so that will need to be replaced and I have read horror stories about that. At any rate, once the heater valve is replaced and I can open it, I may find other problems that will necessitate removal of the heater coil and the box. I can then devise a way to get the flap removed. I thank you for your quick response.

[Heuer]

It is brazed onto the shaft so getting it off in one piece is very difficult. Unless you want a concours finish I suggest either buying a repro box from SNGB or work around the problem and leave it in place.

[Rusty]

It is brazed onto the shaft so getting it off in one piece is very difficult. Unless you want a concours finish I suggest either buying a repro box from SNGB or work around the problem and leave it in place.

I completely agree! This is a driver, not a show car. I would just like to get it so that I can get some heat when the weather gets a little cold. But this is certainly not a priority with me. Thanks for your reply.

[288gto]

A few pics that might help......







Have you disconnected the cable? With the cable disconnected and the short spring disconnected on the over centre lever on the cable side of the heater box,(S2) the only thing that would prevent the spindle rotating and the flap moving would be the shaft seized in the small solid bush it passes through. Penetrating oil should fix this, without the need to remove the flap.
David, not sure on a S1 but on a S2 heater box you can remove the spindle once the flap is removed.

Simon

[PhilBell]

I had the heater box blasted inside and out, zinc coated and powder coated by Peterborough Blasting for £85 if I remember correctly. The finish is satin black. They're used to handling delicate classic stuff like this but their main business is equipment that has to live outdoors in all weathers, so a tough, durable finish is essential.