rear hubs clicking

[Terry Sturgeon]

Does anybody know what compound Jaguar used to lock the inner splines to the rear hub, and if it's still available? I've used blue Loctite but it doesn't last, and am reluctant to go to red or higher for fear of extreme difficulty in strip down. I don't have the ability to heat soak parts this size.

[mxke]

There is a post on JL about using Loctite 518 for this issue.

[mgcjag]

Hi Terry....sticking to your exact question...no pun intended....i think the answer is in the later xk6/12 Jag service manuals .....unfortunatly i dont have one to check......Steve

[Terry Sturgeon]

Thanks Steve. I have the manual by chance and it does mention using a locking compound - Loctite. It doesn't say which Loctite and as there a many, including some that are like welding (See https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/ ... 3-12-18-lg) some care is needed.

I've used Loctite 518 a lot, but only for making gaskets. It does harden though not to completely hard IME. Can't believe it would work to lock up splines - but what do I know.

[abowie]

Just use the strongest loctite you can, and worry about getting it apart later if you ever do need to.

[mgcjag]

Hi Terry...im sure the details must be in a Jaguar Service Bulletin.....but you would need to search...Steve

[Joes66]

I recently re built my IRS
My rear splines had been locked with something that resembled lock tight
They were locked solid
I had to take them to a local engineering shop that had a 50 Tonn press
They said even with that press they had to shock the shafts out due to fear of bending or breaking something
Joe

[abowie]

They said even with that press they had to shock the shafts out due to fear of bending or breaking something
Joe

Bet they didn't click though.

We never use locking compounds on our rebuilds, but in Terry's position, unless he wants to replace both the hub and the driveshaft he's sort of stuck (pun intended) with having to use some sort of glue.

[angelw]

Joe Wrote:

I had to take them to a local engineering shop that had a 50 Tonn press
They said even with that press they had to shock the shafts out due to fear of bending or breaking something

Hello Joe,
When pressing this assembly apart, the load is applied between the thin walled, threaded section of the hub and the end of the splined shaft. I've had clients bring there half shaft/hub assemblies to get apart after others have had a go and many of the splined shafts have been throw away due to not using a nut screwed onto the splined shaft to protect the end of the thread. They were throw away because the end area weakened by the fairly large centre feature and cross drilled hole for the split pin had collapsed under the load applied.

We get plenty of these assemblies to dismantle where permanent Loctite has been used and the best method by far is to destroy the characteristics of the Loctite with heat. However, because the area you really need to get the heat to is well insulated by a considerable air gap between the hub/splined shaft assembly and the hub carrier, any type of flame heating is rather futile; it needs to be a soaking heat as per an oven. For that purpose, we have a commercial, electric pizza oven that will accept the whole half shaft and hub assembly.

I can't find a copy of the document right now, but not that long after Jaguar introduced the use of a retaining compound to resolve the issue of the the clicking noise, a service bulletin was issued withdrawing the recommendation of using retaining compound on the splines.

Regards,

Bill

[Terry Sturgeon]

I've been looking at the multitude of Loctite products, to see if any are suitable. I think the one to use is 648, a retaining compound. It retains it's strength reasonably well with heat, has great radial strength but not much in shear. I watched a video of the use of 680 a product that seems similar in characteristics to 648, but not as strong, with poorer heat strength. It pulled apart easily.

The tech sheet for 648 is: http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowP ... lant=WERCS

[abowie]

I've been looking at the multitude of Loctite products

What you want is something that will fill in the void left by the wear on the splines and be hard enough to prevent the splines moving radially in relation to each other.

The harder the better.

[malcolm]

On really tight hard cornering on a hill climb, I noticed a loud clicking from the back. Is that my hubs clicking as described in above posts? I don't get it in normal driving, so can I ignore it?

[Series1 Stu]

My choice would be Loctite 641 Bearing Fit. Great hold but can be dismantled easily enough for service. We've used this to good effect on high spec rotating machinery.

Regards

[abowie]

From JL Forum:

https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/advice- ... ing/408685

[Philk]

Have you checked for any play on the water shrouds that slot into the rear hub carriers? If nothing else, perhaps removing these and seeing if the ticking noise remains would eliminate them from the equation? I had an occasional ticking noise on the left hand side of the car and, after a number of trial adjustments of the water shroud, this removed the problem.

[Series1 Stu]

From JL Forum:

Isn't Loctite 518 a gasket material? I suppose it's got better gap filling potential but if you need to seal up to 0.25mm gaps on splines then you really need to replace some components.

Loctite 641 is still my choice. Also use it on wheel bearings to stop the races spinning on the stub axles.

There was no mention of using any compounds in the series 1 manual when I rebuilt my IRS. Let's hope it doesn't click.

Regards

Regards