Is there anything on Monocoque Metalworks’ site about this? I seem to remember seeing something there but can’t find it straight off. Worth looking.
Geoff
Series 1 bonnet fitting
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#41 Re: Series 1 bonnet fitting
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#42 Re: Series 1 bonnet fitting
Geoff,
MM I don't know, but there is something at 3'27'' of
Philippe
MM I don't know, but there is something at 3'27'' of
Philippe
Philippe-J
1967 S1(.25) OTS (well, bits of, so far...)
1967 S1(.25) OTS (well, bits of, so far...)
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#43 Re: Series 1 bonnet fitting
Not sure which of the myriad Fitting-A-Bonnet posts to choose, as there are so many on the Forum.
Big Bonnet = Big Number Of Postings.
My bonnet gaps were excellent when the bare shell came back from Hutsons, I can't remember exactly what measurement they were, but they were regular.
Now that the car is complete and loaded up with the engine etc, and the return springs, they've shifted slightly and I'm reassured to see that this is not an uncommon phenomenon.
Even if I see too that it is a contested one .........
But with so much new metal (sills, scuttle etc and all bonnet structures in perfect nick) in my shell I do not believe (Ed - want to believe) that it is a sign of an overly-weak structure, just a slightly springy one.
Those are my gaps as things stand.
My questions are :
Is the adjustment with the shims a pretty "objective " exercise, as in - you change a thickness here, and it reduces/increases the gap there - predictably ?
On the face of it, if I "just" remove 2.50mm in front of the front RHS hinge, I ought to get the vertical gap on the RHS down to 5.50mm ; in practice, is this pie in the sky ?
I'm aware that this also has a crabbing effect on the opposite side of the bonnet.
Please hold my hand.
And as, in fact, I have zero shims in front of the RHS hinge, who is it that makes offset hinges for precisely that reason - I know I've seen them but I can't remember where ? Or is our fellow-contributor's Cut-And-TIG a better approach, seeing as how I've only got one to address ?
And lastly, how tight a gap do people aim for at the back of the bonnet ?
I was aiming for the same 4.50 - 5.50mm that I have on the LHS, or should I be aiming for tighter ?
Big Bonnet = Big Number Of Postings.
My bonnet gaps were excellent when the bare shell came back from Hutsons, I can't remember exactly what measurement they were, but they were regular.
Now that the car is complete and loaded up with the engine etc, and the return springs, they've shifted slightly and I'm reassured to see that this is not an uncommon phenomenon.
Even if I see too that it is a contested one .........
But with so much new metal (sills, scuttle etc and all bonnet structures in perfect nick) in my shell I do not believe (Ed - want to believe) that it is a sign of an overly-weak structure, just a slightly springy one.
Those are my gaps as things stand.
My questions are :
Is the adjustment with the shims a pretty "objective " exercise, as in - you change a thickness here, and it reduces/increases the gap there - predictably ?
On the face of it, if I "just" remove 2.50mm in front of the front RHS hinge, I ought to get the vertical gap on the RHS down to 5.50mm ; in practice, is this pie in the sky ?
I'm aware that this also has a crabbing effect on the opposite side of the bonnet.
Please hold my hand.
And as, in fact, I have zero shims in front of the RHS hinge, who is it that makes offset hinges for precisely that reason - I know I've seen them but I can't remember where ? Or is our fellow-contributor's Cut-And-TIG a better approach, seeing as how I've only got one to address ?
And lastly, how tight a gap do people aim for at the back of the bonnet ?
I was aiming for the same 4.50 - 5.50mm that I have on the LHS, or should I be aiming for tighter ?
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#44 Re: Series 1 bonnet fitting
Here you go http://classicjaguar.com/parts-2/regula ... ion-parts/
I have used them on my 67 OTS, good quality and helped solved my miss alignment issues. As with most things E-Type it was an iterative process to get the spacing just right. I thought removing the same size spacer would result in an equal reduction in clearance, it didn't. Your results may vary. I found it necessary to loosen the return spring bolts while adjusting also. Your adjustment looks to fore and aft so it may be easier. You will need lots of spacers and careful measurement to maintain your up down positioning with the CJ hinges. It can be done !
Cheers !
I have used them on my 67 OTS, good quality and helped solved my miss alignment issues. As with most things E-Type it was an iterative process to get the spacing just right. I thought removing the same size spacer would result in an equal reduction in clearance, it didn't. Your results may vary. I found it necessary to loosen the return spring bolts while adjusting also. Your adjustment looks to fore and aft so it may be easier. You will need lots of spacers and careful measurement to maintain your up down positioning with the CJ hinges. It can be done !
Cheers !
1967 S1.25 OTS, 1952 MG TD
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#45 Re: Series 1 bonnet fitting
Similar to Keith, I found it an iterative process to get the same gaps all round. Though that was for an S2 with the strut not the springs of the S1, but can't see why it shouldn't be the same. As for gaps. What do you have on the doors? Are you trying for the same gap? I've generally aimed for around 3-4 mm for both doors and bonnet.
Good luck
Geoff
Good luck
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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