Dowty washers

[tim wood]

Hello all
I’ve got a bit of a leak from the joint where the cam feed pipe meets the block.
I’ve changed the ridged copper washers for new but the leak persists. Before I spend (more) cash on a braided system I’m thinking of trying Dowty seals .
Can’t see much on the forum regarding these so any thoughts welcome.

If I do go the braided route any comments on the Rob Beere system vs SNG ?

Thanks

Tim

[Simonpfhc]

Hi Tim,

Dowty washers are great! On all the engines I’ve rebuilt, I use them on the four front studs/bolts that help hold the cylinder head on which almost Always normally leak. I would also like to use them on all the acorn nuts on the cam covers, but I like the look of the copper ones too much!

I have also used braided modern replacement hoses for the cam tower oil feed when the old ones are either missing or damaged. They seem to work fine although some folks say there is a restricted oil flow due to smaller bore?? But I’ve never had a problem with them. I’ve used SNG ones before but no one else's so can’t compare.

Hope that helps.

[mgcjag]

Hi Tim.....take care and do carefull measurements...look at the original setup with the very thin crush washers and note where the hole in the banjo lines up with the pipe feed hole in the fitting.....thicker washers move the position of the holes so they dont fully line up do slight restricts oil flow....as does the flexi set up.....Will it cause problems...I dont know..but best to be aware its then your choice.....I always use the thin crush copper washers with a thin smear of hylomar on a mating surfaces....I dont get leaks...Steve

[tim wood]

Thanks both,

Good point raised by Steve - I hadn’t considered that.

Before changing anything I think I will rig up some means of testing the pipe and checking for cracks around the joint. This will help the thought process.


Tim

[politeperson]

Tim,
I have been there many times!
You must use a fine hand file to create a perfectly flat surface on all the banjos faces, otherwise it will never seal, no matter which washers you use.
The thin copper ones or crush washers are the best.
Remove the whole assembly and surface all 6 faces holding it in a vice.
You will see the high and low spots appear clearly as you gently file each sealing face.

Then you are in with a chance with new copper washers. I have never actually experienced a leak from the soldered joints, however I suppose that would be possible.

[tim wood]

Ok, the issue is sorted.
Steve, you were correct about Dowty washers. The additional thickness would have obstructed oil flow. I did try smoothing the banjo connections but to no avail.

So went for a braided set up from Rob Beere. Ordered yesterday and fitted today. Beautifully made. Came complete with new bolts and proper crush washers. Appears leak free.

Having done this I’m convinced that the issue is with the silly ridged washers normally provided. The Beere set up uses ordinary flat copper washers on the outside ( next to the bolt head) and crush washers against the block and head. If I was doing it again I would try this washer set up using the original pipe work.

Tim