Diff Pinion Seal

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MarkG
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#1 Diff Pinion Seal

Post by MarkG » Sun Jan 02, 2011 6:32 pm

I have just removed and stripped down my IRS. The diff front pinion oil seal has always had a bit of a leak. Not major, but I thought while it's out and now clean, I might as well replace it. However, the manual states this is a big No-no. It states if you loosen that drive nut, then the whole thing needs re-building. Is this in fact the case? My diff is otherwise fine.

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christopher storey
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#2

Post by christopher storey » Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:03 pm

Mark : I am not an authority on the rear axle, but AFAIK the replacement of the pinion seal is not very difficult provided that the pinion setting is not disturbed. If you have the Jaguar reprint, it is dealt with on page H24 . In essence, you remove the pinion assembly complete, fit the new pinion seal , oil slinger and and gasket, and refit the pinion assembly to the differential case. Provided you do not disturb the shimmed up assembly whilst you have it out of the differential case , there should be no problems of adjustment

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MarkG
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#3

Post by MarkG » Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:36 pm

Thanks Chris but what is the 'Jaguar re-print'?

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#4

Post by christopher storey » Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:01 pm

Mark ; it is the Brooklands Books reprint of the Jaguar workshop manual ISBN 1 85520 0210. I believe that what is called bentley in the USA is the same manual. It is infintely superior to the Haynes guides but it does require some painstaking study to get the best out of it, as it is a professional's book rather than an amateur guide , and not all the procedures described are at all obvious

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#5

Post by daverawle » Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:16 pm

Mark,

I'm also not an authority on diffs but can tell you what worked for me when replacing the seal. There may be a crush sleeve on the pinion shaft which is compressed to set the pinion pre-load. This is normally torqued in the region of 140 ft/lbs so you shouldn't compress it more. When replacing mine I re-torqued it to 90 ft/lbs and have had no problem or strange noises after 10k miles.

Dave
1963 OTS

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e-bygum
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#6

Post by e-bygum » Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:16 pm

Does the above info. apply equally to series 3 as to series 1 & 2?
Pete
'71 S3 2+2

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#7

Post by christopher storey » Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:36 am

Mark

here is a link to the Rear Axle section in the S1 manual

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8496016/Service ... 20Axle.pdf

You will come to the relevant pages if you scroll down

And Pete : I do not think there is any substantial difference between the various versions of the car, save that a crushable spacer was introduced at some stage

Chris

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#8

Post by Dave K » Mon Jan 03, 2011 4:57 pm

daverawle wrote:Mark,

I'm also not an authority on diffs but can tell you what worked for me when replacing the seal. There may be a crush sleeve on the pinion shaft which is compressed to set the pinion pre-load. This is normally torqued in the region of 140 ft/lbs so you shouldn't compress it more. When replacing mine I re-torqued it to 90 ft/lbs and have had no problem or strange noises after 10k miles.

Dave
I also did the same as Dave and have done 10,000 miles with no problem. The biggest problem I found was removing the nut because it was bloody tight and the diff kept turning so I made a simple tool that locked the diff drive flange and allowed the nut to come undone.

The simple tool is a piece of flat bar about 500mm long with two bolts that go into the drive flange holes and the flat bar then jams on the floor.

Dave

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#9

Post by MarkG » Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:30 pm

Thanks Dave. I'll give that a go next time I'm given an evening's garage pass by the boss!

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#10

Post by MarkG » Sun Jan 09, 2011 11:51 am

I got the nut off no problem. I used a air tool. But I could not get the flange off. I tried a puller and tapping with a hammer but it just seemed to be pulling out the entire shaft. So I have bottled it and put it all back ready to take to a specialist (sigh)

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#11

Post by daverawle » Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:10 pm

MarkG wrote:I got the nut off no problem. I used a air tool. But I could not get the flange off. I tried a puller and tapping with a hammer but it just seemed to be pulling out the entire shaft. So I have bottled it and put it all back ready to take to a specialist (sigh)
Never straightforward is it :( It may have been assembled with Loctite or similar.

Dave
1963 OTS

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#12

Post by Dave K » Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:01 pm

daverawle wrote:
MarkG wrote:I got the nut off no problem. I used a air tool. But I could not get the flange off. I tried a puller and tapping with a hammer but it just seemed to be pulling out the entire shaft. So I have bottled it and put it all back ready to take to a specialist (sigh)
Don't give up just yet. Give the shaft a really good clean up and turn the diff so the flange is facing upwards and keep soaking it with WD40, plus gas or anything you can get you hands on and gently but firmly tapping it, it will come out just a couple of years stiction holding it together.

Do you have some gentle heat you could put on the flange something like a heat gun or similar? all will help free it off.

Dave

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#13

Post by MarkG » Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:23 pm

As it happened I was working in Leicester this week so I dropped my diff off at Eric Battelle in Derby on the way down. I only found him through Chris Rooke's book. I picked it up again tonight on the way home and paid him ?15. Nice enough chap, though he wouldn't tell me just how he managed to get the flange off, even though I pressed him a couple of times. Strange. I showed him Chris's book and his entry on page 346. He had no idea he was in it.

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