Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
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#1 Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
I've got new (ish) Robey frame rails, picture window and an original bonnet hinge bracket on the shelf for my rebuild. I want to coat the insides for rust prevention. I know some people wax, sone use linseed oil and others pour/spray paint inside the tubes. Anyone got any opinions on best coating substance and application? I was thinking a small sponge on a long stiff wire could work well for application?
TIA
TIA
1967 series 1.5
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#2 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
So how do you get access to treat inside the frame rails?
Randall Botha
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
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#3 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
I think the mounting plates have holes in them.
Derek
64 ser 1 fhc, 71 ser 3 2+2. Ser 3 now sold, looking for a new toy to keep Ser 1 company
64 ser 1 fhc, 71 ser 3 2+2. Ser 3 now sold, looking for a new toy to keep Ser 1 company
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Topic author - Posts: 5
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#4 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
1967 series 1.5
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#5 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
You wax inject them at 100 psi after the final paint has 100% cured. Same with all the other box sections on the car. Use a proper automotive product such as Waxoyl which doesn't melt in heat and drip, smell or stain. This is acquired from you local paint factors.
You need the correct gun and probe. You might have a few 10mm holes to make, You have to do the frames after they are painted but before they are fitted as the access point becomes closed off by the bulkhead.
20l should do the whole car.
This coats the inside of panels that you cannot see stopping condensation rotting the car-especially from the welds. Welds are really prone to rust because they draw the moisture in through capillary action.
Condensation in box sections is created by closed non vented box sections getting hot then cold cycles by night and day.
Cars usually rot from the inside out.
You need the correct gun and probe. You might have a few 10mm holes to make, You have to do the frames after they are painted but before they are fitted as the access point becomes closed off by the bulkhead.
20l should do the whole car.
This coats the inside of panels that you cannot see stopping condensation rotting the car-especially from the welds. Welds are really prone to rust because they draw the moisture in through capillary action.
Condensation in box sections is created by closed non vented box sections getting hot then cold cycles by night and day.
Cars usually rot from the inside out.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#6 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
Serge
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
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#7 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
Thanks for this. What does '20l should do the whole car' mean?politeperson wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2024 8:26 pmYou wax inject them at 100 psi after the final paint has 100% cured. Same with all the other box sections on the car. Use a proper automotive product such as Waxoyl which doesn't melt in heat and drip, smell or stain. This is acquired from you local paint factors.
You need the correct gun and probe. You might have a few 10mm holes to make, You have to do the frames after they are painted but before they are fitted as the access point becomes closed off by the bulkhead.
20l should do the whole car.
This coats the inside of panels that you cannot see stopping condensation rotting the car-especially from the welds. Welds are really prone to rust because they draw the moisture in through capillary action.
Condensation in box sections is created by closed non vented box sections getting hot then cold cycles by night and day.
Cars usually rot from the inside out.
1967 series 1.5
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#8 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
Ah, so prior to installation, a bit late for that now!
Randall Botha
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
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#9 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
I mean 4x 5 liter tins will be enough to protect the whole car.
This is generally the inner sills, rear wheel arch/quarter join, inner bulkhead cavities, frame rails, rear chassis legs, inner rear bulkhead void, boot seams and strengthening panels, floor supports and cross-member.
All the bits you cannot see or paint when they are enclosed basically.
This is generally the inner sills, rear wheel arch/quarter join, inner bulkhead cavities, frame rails, rear chassis legs, inner rear bulkhead void, boot seams and strengthening panels, floor supports and cross-member.
All the bits you cannot see or paint when they are enclosed basically.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#10 Re: Frame rails and picture window interior coating options
I poured red oxide primer in until they were full ( I had a lot of spare tins of this stuff) once the frames were full I turned them up side down to let all the paint run out, thus coating all the insides, in reflection a decent 2 pack epoxy primer would have been better as when mixed it has the consistency of water, so easy to drain, sticks like sh*T and last forever, this stuff took days to finally seep out ..
Previously...S1 OTS E type (sold)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration yet to start!)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration yet to start!)
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