Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
#1 Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
I have been procrastinating for weeks, months even, about starting the re-fit of my interior.
Yet I had done most of it before, in 2016-17 - some by myself, some by Jack McCarthy at BAS in Wales.
But I had found the experience so traumatic that I've blocked out most of the memories, conserving just one - that I f----ing HATED using contact adhesive.
The One-Shot Get It Right First Time is a killer for OCD-sufferers, who like repeated iterations as they strive for (unobtainable) perfection.
However, I think I've found a way of using it that makes it much more manageable.
This did NOT make me Jack McCarthy yet, by a long shot, but my efforts are way better than I feared.
How anyone manages some of the lighter fabrics without using contact-adhesive from a rattle-can just beats me, and the method I have used here seems to work best when using the spray on the trimming, and the oil-can-with-a-brush-applicator on the shell itself, where the zone has to be carefully delineated, or the rattle-can again for other areas.
It's worth reminding anyone that's new to this that one of the key ingredients is using "heavy thinners" - no idea what it's called in the UK, in France it's a "diluant lourd" which is a heavier fraction than cellulose thinners ; it doesn't attack 2-pack or cellulose paints, but it DOES soften and remove contact adhesive, and perfunctory usage doesn't seem to affect hardura or vinyl if you need to remove excess glue.
It's a lighter fraction, however, than plain white spirit.
It is widely used in the motor trade here, and I have contributor Mich @ mich7920 to thank for this, he even sent me my first can for free, and from the references on his version I was able to identify a supplier here, where it's actually also used as a thinners for some swimming-pool lining paint.
It's also very good for cleaning the rattle-can nozzle, vital as otherwise the spray pattern is destroyed within minutes of each usage.
I have found that a range going from acetone, brake-cleaner, cellulose thinners, Mich's Diluant Lourd, white-spirit, and meths, is necessary if one is to cover all workshop needs.
(Ed - and that will make for six corresponding carcinomas, then ?)
Anyway, the obvious issue on our cars is that as soon as you approach two glued-up items they behave as if magnetised, long before you've got the alignment right, and you're screwed, wrinkles and all.
One obvious fault I was committing was not leaving the glues for long enough, although the notion of "dry to touch" has always seemed pretty subjective to me, and I probably suffered from a disbelief that the chemistry would actually work if I waited 20 minutes or longer.
So I started to wait for longer, and above all I realised that once the can-sprayed surface had dried off a bit, I could use newspaper sheets (plastic sheet probably even better ?) - cut judiciously for size and position - to neutralise the majority of the surface.
In this way I could position the trimming in a far less stressful way, and then progressively remove my backing sheets - just like you would with Fablon - as I brought the two glued surfaces together.
It's not nuclear physics, I grant you, and maybe loads of people do this already - but they never told me.
It has revolutionised my capacity to trim the car without having to re-order the stuff I've just destroyed, and at times it even became quite enjoyable ; the less-than-perfect bits are at least now confined to Out-Of-Sight.
NB - I find the moquette is a desperately fragile material, certainly the BAS version I'm using right now, for the environment it is living in, and it's still a bitch to apply - especially the haunches.
I imagine later versions of the car may have used something else, and if you're not 100% committed to originality I'd suggest you investigate that. I hardly dare open the boot now for fear of leaving marks when I pull on the toggle .............
Yet I had done most of it before, in 2016-17 - some by myself, some by Jack McCarthy at BAS in Wales.
But I had found the experience so traumatic that I've blocked out most of the memories, conserving just one - that I f----ing HATED using contact adhesive.
The One-Shot Get It Right First Time is a killer for OCD-sufferers, who like repeated iterations as they strive for (unobtainable) perfection.
However, I think I've found a way of using it that makes it much more manageable.
This did NOT make me Jack McCarthy yet, by a long shot, but my efforts are way better than I feared.
How anyone manages some of the lighter fabrics without using contact-adhesive from a rattle-can just beats me, and the method I have used here seems to work best when using the spray on the trimming, and the oil-can-with-a-brush-applicator on the shell itself, where the zone has to be carefully delineated, or the rattle-can again for other areas.
It's worth reminding anyone that's new to this that one of the key ingredients is using "heavy thinners" - no idea what it's called in the UK, in France it's a "diluant lourd" which is a heavier fraction than cellulose thinners ; it doesn't attack 2-pack or cellulose paints, but it DOES soften and remove contact adhesive, and perfunctory usage doesn't seem to affect hardura or vinyl if you need to remove excess glue.
It's a lighter fraction, however, than plain white spirit.
It is widely used in the motor trade here, and I have contributor Mich @ mich7920 to thank for this, he even sent me my first can for free, and from the references on his version I was able to identify a supplier here, where it's actually also used as a thinners for some swimming-pool lining paint.
It's also very good for cleaning the rattle-can nozzle, vital as otherwise the spray pattern is destroyed within minutes of each usage.
I have found that a range going from acetone, brake-cleaner, cellulose thinners, Mich's Diluant Lourd, white-spirit, and meths, is necessary if one is to cover all workshop needs.
(Ed - and that will make for six corresponding carcinomas, then ?)
Anyway, the obvious issue on our cars is that as soon as you approach two glued-up items they behave as if magnetised, long before you've got the alignment right, and you're screwed, wrinkles and all.
One obvious fault I was committing was not leaving the glues for long enough, although the notion of "dry to touch" has always seemed pretty subjective to me, and I probably suffered from a disbelief that the chemistry would actually work if I waited 20 minutes or longer.
So I started to wait for longer, and above all I realised that once the can-sprayed surface had dried off a bit, I could use newspaper sheets (plastic sheet probably even better ?) - cut judiciously for size and position - to neutralise the majority of the surface.
In this way I could position the trimming in a far less stressful way, and then progressively remove my backing sheets - just like you would with Fablon - as I brought the two glued surfaces together.
It's not nuclear physics, I grant you, and maybe loads of people do this already - but they never told me.
It has revolutionised my capacity to trim the car without having to re-order the stuff I've just destroyed, and at times it even became quite enjoyable ; the less-than-perfect bits are at least now confined to Out-Of-Sight.
NB - I find the moquette is a desperately fragile material, certainly the BAS version I'm using right now, for the environment it is living in, and it's still a bitch to apply - especially the haunches.
I imagine later versions of the car may have used something else, and if you're not 100% committed to originality I'd suggest you investigate that. I hardly dare open the boot now for fear of leaving marks when I pull on the toggle .............
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#2 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
Rory
I would ad MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) to your list of workshop solvents.
Also all E-Type boots were trimmed in Beige regardless of body or interior colour. Your choice, but just saying!
I would ad MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) to your list of workshop solvents.
Also all E-Type boots were trimmed in Beige regardless of body or interior colour. Your choice, but just saying!
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#3 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
Ha ! MEK - I thought that was just for dry cleaning !
Where do you use that, as in, what does it do that one of the others doesn't ?
Anyway, that's seven carcinomas then.
Yes, was aware of boot-colour divergence but think it looks SO much nicer
As I'll never sell the car (kids ? who cares !) I'm not overly concerned about originality ......... and if Lyons hadn't been so tight I bet that this matching would have been offered as standard.
Where do you use that, as in, what does it do that one of the others doesn't ?
Anyway, that's seven carcinomas then.
Yes, was aware of boot-colour divergence but think it looks SO much nicer
As I'll never sell the car (kids ? who cares !) I'm not overly concerned about originality ......... and if Lyons hadn't been so tight I bet that this matching would have been offered as standard.
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#4 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
"Methyl ethyl ketone is a colourless, volatile, highly flammable liquid with a fruity odour .Methyl Ethyl Ketone (C4H8O) is an organic compound that is a strong, corrosive, naturally oxidizing agent.
It is widely used as a solvent for protective coatings, paints, plastics, adhesives, printing inks and pesticides, it may be released from industry but it is quickly broken down in the environment, methyl ethyl ketone is produced naturally at low levels by many living things, methyl ethyl ketone can be found in various food items including meat, fruit and vegetables, people may be exposed to methyl ethyl ketone as an ingredient in some consumer products such as varnishes.
It is also referred to as Butanone or 2-Butanone, and while it is a particularly effective solvent itself, MEK is soluble in alcohol and water. It is a liquid ketone with no colour, and a sharp odour similar to acetone. In fact, MEK and acetone share similar chemical compounds. MEK is favoured for its strength over acetone, as it boils at a higher temperature and has a slower evaporation rate. "
It is widely used as a solvent for protective coatings, paints, plastics, adhesives, printing inks and pesticides, it may be released from industry but it is quickly broken down in the environment, methyl ethyl ketone is produced naturally at low levels by many living things, methyl ethyl ketone can be found in various food items including meat, fruit and vegetables, people may be exposed to methyl ethyl ketone as an ingredient in some consumer products such as varnishes.
It is also referred to as Butanone or 2-Butanone, and while it is a particularly effective solvent itself, MEK is soluble in alcohol and water. It is a liquid ketone with no colour, and a sharp odour similar to acetone. In fact, MEK and acetone share similar chemical compounds. MEK is favoured for its strength over acetone, as it boils at a higher temperature and has a slower evaporation rate. "
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#5 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
Hi Rory,
I will chime in with more, I am also working on trim with the dreaded contact muck, looking at the label on the can of Alpha S1358 High Heat Contact Adhesive, the first component is shown as Toluene . I think Toluene is used as a thinner in some car paints, I have seen cans of it at the paint suppliers. I have used epoxy primer thinners to remove old dried glue, takes a few minutes to soften but seems to work okay. The main thing I guess is to make sure you don't soften the underlying paint and if your chosen chemical does the job then its good enough. Xylene is another thinners that crops up from time to time.
I would also add, to use these chemicals in well ventilated areas, unless you want to be as high as a kite.
So add 3 more carcinomas to the list of useful cleaners.
Regards
Tony
I will chime in with more, I am also working on trim with the dreaded contact muck, looking at the label on the can of Alpha S1358 High Heat Contact Adhesive, the first component is shown as Toluene . I think Toluene is used as a thinner in some car paints, I have seen cans of it at the paint suppliers. I have used epoxy primer thinners to remove old dried glue, takes a few minutes to soften but seems to work okay. The main thing I guess is to make sure you don't soften the underlying paint and if your chosen chemical does the job then its good enough. Xylene is another thinners that crops up from time to time.
I would also add, to use these chemicals in well ventilated areas, unless you want to be as high as a kite.
So add 3 more carcinomas to the list of useful cleaners.
Regards
Tony
Tony
69 Series 2 2+2 auto
69 Series 2 2+2 auto
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#6 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
Hi Rory, I have also struggled as you did, instead of newspaper sheets I have used the silicone coated backing paper of the sound insulation padding. Works like a treat!
No mek in dry cleaning, it is an equally harmful chlorinated solvent...
Good continuation
No mek in dry cleaning, it is an equally harmful chlorinated solvent...
Good continuation
Ralph
'69 OTS + '62 OTS - Belgium
'69 OTS + '62 OTS - Belgium
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#7 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
"if Lyons hadn't been so tight I bet that this matching would have been offered as standard"
Not sure about that (assuming Lyon could have ever been not tight). You can listen to Tim Griffin at CMC in this video
explaining that beige was chosen because it gives the impression of a wider boot to the buyer.
So, tight maybe, but well-advised!
However your choice might inspire me when I am to that point...
Philippe-J.
Not sure about that (assuming Lyon could have ever been not tight). You can listen to Tim Griffin at CMC in this video
explaining that beige was chosen because it gives the impression of a wider boot to the buyer.
So, tight maybe, but well-advised!
However your choice might inspire me when I am to that point...
Philippe-J.
Philippe-J
1967 S1(.25) OTS (well, bits of, so far...)
1967 S1(.25) OTS (well, bits of, so far...)
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#8 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
Great instructions! Bit of thread drift if you don't mind. Are your retractable seatbelts available as a kit or did you design them yourself? They are exactly what I am looking for.
Geoff Allam
67 series1 ots under restoration
67 series1 ots under restoration
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#9 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
Many years ago we used to use Acetone as a solvent to dissolve ABS plastic down to a thick paste and then use the paste to "weld" 2 ABS components together. It worked incredibly well and withstood all the drop test procedures for portable appliances. We later swapped the Acetone for MEK because it gave us longer working times.Heuer wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2024 10:58 am"Methyl ethyl ketone is a colourless, volatile, highly flammable liquid with a fruity odour .Methyl Ethyl Ketone (C4H8O) is an organic compound that is a strong, corrosive, naturally oxidizing agent.
It is a liquid ketone with no colour, and a sharp odour similar to acetone. In fact, MEK and acetone share similar chemical compounds. MEK is favoured for its strength over acetone, as it boils at a higher temperature and has a slower evaporation rate. "
I think it's MEK that is used as the solvent for plastic plumbing fittings.
Regards
Stuart
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
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#10 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
First came across MEK when I worked at Evode the makers of Evo-Stik. It was the product of choice to clean off not only Evo-Stik but all the general cleaning around the manufacture of adhesives, tapes, etc.
That was quite a few years ago but can still remember the smell
Geoff
That was quite a few years ago but can still remember the smell
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#11 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
Yep, MEK is a superb cleaner and solvent but the smell is almost addictive so plenty of airflow is desirable otherwise a headache awaits. Learning point - do not ask your wife to help with the cleaning as it is incredibly efficient at removing nail polish
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
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#12 Re: Interior Trim - I HATE CONTACT ADHESIVE, but ........... this helps
FWIW petrol (or gasoline in the other English) is good for cleaning contact adhesive.
Randall Botha
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
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