Radiator Coolent

Technical advice Q&A

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PAUL MORRIS
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#1 Radiator Coolent

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Mon May 30, 2011 7:07 am

Dear All,

I current use De Min water in the Radiator, yesterday I was advised to use
a Coolent for Alu Engines. I was told better for the engine, less rust etc ,
What is the general opinion or proper decision. Also its really hot outside these past months & no sign of cooling.
Paul
Paul

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Heuer
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#2

Post by Heuer » Mon May 30, 2011 10:51 am

You should always add anti-freeze obviously as it also acts as both a corrosion inhibitor and improves the cooling effect. I also add a bottle of Water Wetter and I find it typically lowers the water temperature by 5c, about half of what the makers claim. Some argue it is not necessary but when you are stuck in slow moving traffic on a hot day I like every bit of insurance I can get!
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB

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e-bygum
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#3

Post by e-bygum » Mon May 30, 2011 1:37 pm

Everyone says that anti-freeze must be used because it has corrosion inhibitors which are vital in our engines.
If there is no chance of the coolant freezing i.e. the car is not used or stored in sub zero temperatures would a specialist corrosion inhibitor be better than anti-freeze?
Frosts (no pun) sell a product called Stay Cool which contains a powerful anti corrosion agent. They claim it gives improved heat transfer, faster warm up and up to 15C reduction in engine operating temperature. It does not contain Ethylene Glycol which can be damaging but can be combined with anti-freeze.
Has anyone had experience with this product or got any thoughts on the matter.
Pete
'71 S3 2+2

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PAUL MORRIS
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#4

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Tue May 31, 2011 7:48 am

Dear All,
Thks for the precious info, i will proceed to add each time coolent. In past
was informed that products that are supposed to cool more are not to be used. Sorry to ask something else, when does the fan work ? whilst driving only ? I normally use the electric fan in traffic when needed.
Paul
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PeterCrespin
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#5

Post by PeterCrespin » Tue May 31, 2011 9:55 am

Water treatment is an entire industry sector with large sales forces peddling a whole range of corrosion and biocide inhibtiors to industry. They can lose huge amounts of money through corrosion and reduced heat exchange efficiency etc, let alone biological hazards like Legionnaire's spreading from cooling water in AC systems.

It's true that if people's cars are never ever going to get near sub-zero temperatures, there's no need for anti-freeze as such. But coolant does more, such as lubricate water pumps on some designs and raise the boiling point/reduce cavitation, plus of course reduce corrosion.

A real water treatment expert like my Best Man was would work out the percentage of different metals in our systems, the hose composition, operating conditions and water hardness and mineral spectrum. Then armed with the desired service life of components and change frequency for coolant he would suggest a custom treatment brew like they do for industrial customers. It would probably be different for an XK-engined E-type versus the all-alloy V12, and for a used somewhat grotty engine versus one that had been freshly tanked. But in the real world, the same stuff that has been worknig well for decades will still work well - i.e. normal coolant mix.

The watter wetter stuff is fine and the racing coolants are fine because glycol does reduce heat transfer a bit compared to pure water. So dropping the glycol percentage or avoiding it altogether does help cooling a bit, albeit with the loss of some freeze protection. But for 99% of people just doing the same boring stuff as for every other classic car on the road is fine IMHO.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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PAUL MORRIS
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#6

Post by PAUL MORRIS » Tue May 31, 2011 10:53 am

Dear Peter
Thks for the information, I read at least 3 times as your Cambridge english is to fine for me. Take Care
Paul
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