Engine is bloked

Technical advice Q&A
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MLBS3V12
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#1 Engine is bloked

Post by MLBS3V12 » Thu Jun 02, 2011 5:53 pm

Hi,

i'll got a car with a bloked engine. It has run for at least the l ast ~17 years.
What has to be done ?
Do I have to open it entirely ?
Thanks for you recommendations
The engine is a V12 one.
Le chemin sera long!...

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#2

Post by SESH » Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:54 pm

Hi, I think you will need to be specific about your problem. It may be a language problem. Are you saying that the engine is seized?
Mike

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#3

Post by MLBS3V12 » Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:11 pm

Yes probably a language problem.
The engine cannot manualy be turned.
I hope it's clearear
Le chemin sera long!...

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#4

Post by SESH » Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:03 pm

There are a lot more people on here with much more technical experience than me, but are you sure the engine is seized (won't turn manually) Have you checked the starter motor. I'm afaid that if the engine is completely seized it will be a strip down of the whole engine. (In my limited experience) Just hope it is something less serious.
I am sure others will be along to give some more information.
Good Luck.
Mike

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#5

Post by Heuer » Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:05 pm

First thing to do is put (thin) oil into the cylinders via the spark plug holes and leave it for a few days. Try turning it again, then repeat. Might take some time but better than stripping the whole thing down. That can be a nightmare as corrosion can prevent the head being removed. MarkE on the Forum has experience of this I seem to recall.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB

Add your E-Type to our World Map: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810

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#6

Post by MarkE » Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:08 am

If the engine has been standing for a long time then you have little option but to fully rebuild it. Chances are the oilways will be gummed up and will need cleaning out, and the silt around the cylinder liners will have become solid, and the engine will overheat if it is started. The gaskets will have dried out as well, especially the rear crankshaft oil seal, and the engine will leak oil, and maybe water. The head gaskets on my V12 had virtually disintegrated after it had stood for 15 years, with no inhibitor in the coolant.

There's also a very good chance that the open valves will have become rusty, so will need doing, and when you get the cylinder heads off you will disturb the liners, so they will need to be re-seated. A nasty problem that you may well encounter is that the cylinder heads will be rusted onto the studs, and will have to be cut off, requiring another pair of heads.

If you are going to rebuild the engine, then as David says, pour some thin oil or diesel down the bores and leave for a couple of weeks. That will unfreeze the pistons.

There is a much easier and cheaper option. Buy a rusty XJS with a good engine .... available in the UK for ?300 or so. Swap the sump, oil pickup, front cover and pulleys, together with the exhaust manifolds and heat shields, and you have a good engine ready to fit into an E Type.

You will need to use the ECU and wiring loom, and some of the sensors from the XJS, and when done you will have a S3 E type that will half the fuel consumption of an E Type with carburettors. This is a very popular modification for the S3 E Type in the UK, and how to do it is well documented. Keep the original engine for posterity!

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#7

Post by MLBS3V12 » Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:44 pm

David,

the solution to get a full injection Etype is very interesting.
I've looked on the web and http://www.jagweb.com/aj6eng/efi_conversion.php propose to get all the technicall information to do that.
I've also found engines in France at a very low cost.
I'll work on this solution.
Many thanks to all of you for your replies

Michel
Le chemin sera long!...

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#8

Post by MarkE » Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:49 pm

Hi Michel
Have a look at this topic and see what Peter has achieved with his V12....now fuel injected and 5 speed box. The car looks even better in the flesh than in the photographs!

http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... ight=#9091

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