SU rebuild kits & ID
#1 SU rebuild kits & ID
I finally got around to looking at my carbs...
There is a tag on each float assembly which I understand indicates the install location... from front of car to back mine were labelled C, R, and F. I plan on putting them back on in the correct order, but how do I know that the tag matches the actual carb and someone didn't swap tags or float bowl assemblies? Is there any way to tell?
I took the center carb off and it was heavily varnished (float stuck, main fuel orifice stuck). I got the float out eventually and had to use a hammer and dowel to get the main orifice & choke linkage off the bottom.
What do you recommend for carb kits? Are there any that include the correct throttle shaft seals and new throttle plates or do those have to be acquired separately?
Does anyone have any pictures of the choke linkage to center carb attachment? It looks like there is supposed to be some kind of clevis pin, but my choke wire was just slid thru where one of the cotter pins is supposed to go.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen
There is a tag on each float assembly which I understand indicates the install location... from front of car to back mine were labelled C, R, and F. I plan on putting them back on in the correct order, but how do I know that the tag matches the actual carb and someone didn't swap tags or float bowl assemblies? Is there any way to tell?
I took the center carb off and it was heavily varnished (float stuck, main fuel orifice stuck). I got the float out eventually and had to use a hammer and dowel to get the main orifice & choke linkage off the bottom.
What do you recommend for carb kits? Are there any that include the correct throttle shaft seals and new throttle plates or do those have to be acquired separately?
Does anyone have any pictures of the choke linkage to center carb attachment? It looks like there is supposed to be some kind of clevis pin, but my choke wire was just slid thru where one of the cotter pins is supposed to go.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen
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#2 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
I am sure there is a post somewhere covering this but several versions of the HD8 were fitted over the years with various part numbers so you need to check what part no tags you need. There is a generic list by date on the Burlen fuel system website although I believe the experts on here have spotted the odd anomaly. Burlen will stamp the tags to order. I had a set made and they were not expensive.
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
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#3 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Hi Stephen....you can get rebuild kits..here is the one from SNG...includes the spindles etc http://www.sngbarratt.com/ProductDetail ... b6042c&l=7
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#4 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Michel
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
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#5 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Front, Centre and Rear.
The other numbers on the tag give the number.
E Type 3.8 Litre 6 cyl 3781 cc 1961 to 1963 AUC 946F, AUC 946C, AUC 946R
E Type 3.8 Litre 6 cyl 3781 cc 1963 to 1964 AUD 112F, AUD 112C, AUD 112R
E Type 4.2 Litre 8 & 9:1 C.R 6 cyl 4235 cc 1967 to 1968 AUD 227F, AUD 227C, AUD 227R
The other numbers on the tag give the number.
E Type 3.8 Litre 6 cyl 3781 cc 1961 to 1963 AUC 946F, AUC 946C, AUC 946R
E Type 3.8 Litre 6 cyl 3781 cc 1963 to 1964 AUD 112F, AUD 112C, AUD 112R
E Type 4.2 Litre 8 & 9:1 C.R 6 cyl 4235 cc 1967 to 1968 AUD 227F, AUD 227C, AUD 227R
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#6 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
So are all 3 carbs literally identical apart from the float bowl tags??
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#7 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
No. Front one has the take off for the vacuum advance for example....functionally the same but the three are not directly interchangeable.
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
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#8 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
They'e the same only different, if you see what I mean. All essentially the same carb. It is possible that the centre carb may be set to run a bit richer or leaner than the other two, but this is only going to involve a very subtle adjustment of the jet - it is due to the fact that the centre carb has even 'sucks' while the outer two are uneven.
Hugo Miller - rebuilding an imported Series II OTS & converting to RHD
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#9 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
I'm guessing that somebody prior rebuilt these carbs and didn't realize they were assigned specific positions until they were all taken apart.
Mine are the AUD 112's and the kit is on the way from over the pond. I started running the one carb I took off in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Assuming that F = front of car, all 3 of my carbs are on the wrong location. To correct this, should I:
A) swap tags only, leaving carb bodies & float assemblies where they are
B) swap float assemblies only
C) swap as much as possible
I realize a few obvious things will be position dependent (like choke bracket & float orientation)I just want to make sure I don't ask for trouble by missing any minor details.
Thanks for the point about the center carb & firing order.
One cosmetic question - is it correct to polish the domes, or did they come with a flat finish from the factory?
Stephen
Mine are the AUD 112's and the kit is on the way from over the pond. I started running the one carb I took off in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Assuming that F = front of car, all 3 of my carbs are on the wrong location. To correct this, should I:
A) swap tags only, leaving carb bodies & float assemblies where they are
B) swap float assemblies only
C) swap as much as possible
I realize a few obvious things will be position dependent (like choke bracket & float orientation)I just want to make sure I don't ask for trouble by missing any minor details.
Thanks for the point about the center carb & firing order.
One cosmetic question - is it correct to polish the domes, or did they come with a flat finish from the factory?
Stephen
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#10 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
I've tried polishing the dashpots will little success. That was on an Aston. My guess is that some will polish up & some won't - different materials? You can cheat and get very thin cosmetic polished covers for them.
Hugo Miller - rebuilding an imported Series II OTS & converting to RHD
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#11 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Hi Stephen....re polishing....this came up a week or so ago..have a look here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11065
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#12 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Assuming everything else lines up...valley7 wrote:
A) swap tags only, leaving carb bodies & float assemblies where they are
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#13 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Everything we know about SU's can be found in these threads and should answer your questions:
viewtopic.php?p=41444#p41444
viewtopic.php?p=35579#p35579
My experience is the carbs are usually put back correctly and it is the tags that get mixed up as many people don't understand the markings, so just put the tags back in the correct order.
viewtopic.php?p=41444#p41444
viewtopic.php?p=35579#p35579
My experience is the carbs are usually put back correctly and it is the tags that get mixed up as many people don't understand the markings, so just put the tags back in the correct order.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#14 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
The dashpots I tried just would not polish up properly - it's as though they were made of a different material. Had the same thing on a Harley crankcase once - I rebuilt the engine for a friend & he wanted it polished, but it just didn't want to play. Need a metallurgist to explain what's going on?mgcjag wrote:Hi Stephen....re polishing....this came up a week or so ago..have a look here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11065
Hugo Miller - rebuilding an imported Series II OTS & converting to RHD
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#15 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Hi Hugo....you need elbow grease or take to a polisher.....ive seen hundreds of E types and most have polished dashpots.....
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#16 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Tried lots of elbow grease in one small area with no response. Didn't even begin to show a decent shine. Just didn't behave like normal aluminium. More like what we used to call 'sh!t metal' in the trade. Astons don't have polished dashpots - maybe that's why?
Hugo Miller - rebuilding an imported Series II OTS & converting to RHD
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#17 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
So... got side tracked on some other projects, still plugging away at my first carb...
I received the XKE overhaul kit from Burlens. I found a few discrepancies in the kit:
1. They do not supply an original type throttle shaft seal. I wasn't about to ream out my carb to press in bushings for the new style so I ordered the PTFE bushing kit from Joe Curto.
2. For the life of me, I can't get the new rubber gasket on the idle screw to go on. Way too small. Is this normal??? I found a much better fit in my O ring kit.
3. The piston lift rubber seal wasn't included.
I received the XKE overhaul kit from Burlens. I found a few discrepancies in the kit:
1. They do not supply an original type throttle shaft seal. I wasn't about to ream out my carb to press in bushings for the new style so I ordered the PTFE bushing kit from Joe Curto.
2. For the life of me, I can't get the new rubber gasket on the idle screw to go on. Way too small. Is this normal??? I found a much better fit in my O ring kit.
3. The piston lift rubber seal wasn't included.
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#18 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
You should tell Burlens - I'm sure they would want to know. This was the UK firm - now known as SU Carburettors I believe - correct?
Hugo Miller - rebuilding an imported Series II OTS & converting to RHD
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#19 Re: SU rebuild kits & ID
Hi Stephen,
For the 1, I have no answer.
For the 2 : The seal is very small and hard to fit. Normal.
For the 3 : The only piston I see is the N°6 Plate 7 ( Parts book for 4.2 - Fuel ) and there is absolutly no seal on it. It's aluminium on aluminium. If the chanber and the piston are in good condition it work fine.
Mich
For the 1, I have no answer.
For the 2 : The seal is very small and hard to fit. Normal.
For the 3 : The only piston I see is the N°6 Plate 7 ( Parts book for 4.2 - Fuel ) and there is absolutly no seal on it. It's aluminium on aluminium. If the chanber and the piston are in good condition it work fine.
Mich
Michel
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
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