Hello all.I have yet to buy my first e-type and I am looking at.
series 2 FHC 2=2's.Can anyone help me with a couple of questions please.
Auto gearboxes-Any problems or observations on them and how do they really effect MPG
Rear axles appear to be a weak point.How best to check for soundness without a hoist
Any other points I should consider would be appreciated. Many thanks Simon
Questions from an e-type wannabie
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Topic author - Posts: 86
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2008 5:05 pm
#2
E-Types are mechanically pretty simple and relatively robust. Main problem is the bodywork which will be very expensive to put right if it is rusty or has been bodged in the past.
Not heard the rear axle being a weak point although the seals can go which is a IRS out job (35 man hours). Autos seem reliable enough and fuel consumption is not much worse than a manual car which tend to be driven harder - so expect 21-23 mpg. Buy the best car you can afford, focusing on the bodywork as mechanical bits are relatively cheap to sort out e.g.:
New shocks x6 - ?600
Carb rebuild - ?475
Exhaust system - ?600
VSE engine rebuild - ?2,000
Interior retrim - ?5,000
Re-paint (back to metal) - ?12,000
Bodywork - ?6,000 to ?30,000
All parts are available from SNG Barratt so a 'rolling restoration' or DIY maintenance is not a problem. Suggest you buy as many books as possible and read them (see reference list on the forum) to understand what is involved. Also worth buying all back copies of 'The E-Type' magazine as that has lots of articles and restoration stories.
David
Not heard the rear axle being a weak point although the seals can go which is a IRS out job (35 man hours). Autos seem reliable enough and fuel consumption is not much worse than a manual car which tend to be driven harder - so expect 21-23 mpg. Buy the best car you can afford, focusing on the bodywork as mechanical bits are relatively cheap to sort out e.g.:
New shocks x6 - ?600
Carb rebuild - ?475
Exhaust system - ?600
VSE engine rebuild - ?2,000
Interior retrim - ?5,000
Re-paint (back to metal) - ?12,000
Bodywork - ?6,000 to ?30,000
All parts are available from SNG Barratt so a 'rolling restoration' or DIY maintenance is not a problem. Suggest you buy as many books as possible and read them (see reference list on the forum) to understand what is involved. Also worth buying all back copies of 'The E-Type' magazine as that has lots of articles and restoration stories.
David
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#3
Simon
Having almost completed a year long rebuild on a S1 2+2 Manual, Davids comments are very justified, buy the best you can afford.
I spent 6-7 months looking and testing every E I could get my hands on before buying a bodily good car with tired mechanicals. Beware there are many bad cars out there.
The Borg Warner box is generally good, just make sure oil is clean and does not have a burnt smell.
Rear axles are mounted on four "v" shaped rubber mountings. If these are perished or have become seperated from the metal mounting brackets, can grossly affect the way the vehicle handles but are fairly easy to replace.
Good hunting
Pete
S1 2+2
Having almost completed a year long rebuild on a S1 2+2 Manual, Davids comments are very justified, buy the best you can afford.
I spent 6-7 months looking and testing every E I could get my hands on before buying a bodily good car with tired mechanicals. Beware there are many bad cars out there.
The Borg Warner box is generally good, just make sure oil is clean and does not have a burnt smell.
Rear axles are mounted on four "v" shaped rubber mountings. If these are perished or have become seperated from the metal mounting brackets, can grossly affect the way the vehicle handles but are fairly easy to replace.
Good hunting
Pete
S1 2+2
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- Location: Thousand Oaks, California
#4
Simon, this is all excellent advice. The first three rules regarding any E-Type purchase are:
1. Bodywork 2. Bodywork 3. Bodywork.
Seriously, since many of the mechanical bits were used throughout the Jaguar range, you can consider most mechanical troubles as a known quantity. A rusty or bodged-up bodyshell can cost as much as a down payment on a nice house to put right. Check over any car very carefully, including those that have spent their entire lives in California. Almost 50% of this state is bordered by salt water and the coast does terrible things to sheetmetal.
1. Bodywork 2. Bodywork 3. Bodywork.
Seriously, since many of the mechanical bits were used throughout the Jaguar range, you can consider most mechanical troubles as a known quantity. A rusty or bodged-up bodyshell can cost as much as a down payment on a nice house to put right. Check over any car very carefully, including those that have spent their entire lives in California. Almost 50% of this state is bordered by salt water and the coast does terrible things to sheetmetal.
Mark (Moe) Shipley
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
Former owner '66FHC, #1E32208
Former owner '65FHC, #1E30036
Planning on getting E-Type No. 3 as soon as possible....
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