Torsion Bars

[chrisvine]

This is the first car I've owned that uses torsion bars rather the conventional coils & springs, so I'd be grateful for advice on what are probably v daft questions.

I've read in various manuals and from posts that the bars are handed and stamped at one end to indicate the left and right bars. However the torsion bars that came off the car have identical markings: an 'X' with 'ESC' below. Therefore I can't tell which is which. I've also got some 0.85" uprated ones but neither of these are stamped.

Are the torsion bars handed during the manufacturing process? Or do they become handed once they have been subjected to a period of loading? Therefore it doesn't matter the orientation of the new bars, which need only be stamped for future reassembling.

Finally, are uprated torsion bars a worthwhile upgrade? Most of the offerings from places like Barratt seem to only have uprated torsion bars.

Thanks for any advice,
Chris

[1954Etype]

Definitely handed and should not be fitted to the wrong side. They are stamped L and R on the ends. Uprated bars are worthwhile if you have to replace imo.

Angus

[Dave K]

Chris,

Get it wrong and you'll know almost immediately because the car will sag on one side after a few miles.

Dave

[Larry Wade]

Hi Chris,

The advantage of putting in new bars is that they'll take a set....at the cost of needing one or two adjustments as they relax over time to equilibrium. Once stable make sure to mark them L and R! Most replacement torsion bars arrive already stamped.

Switching to stiffer torsion bars will increase the amount of understeer you'll have. It is a noticeable change if you've driven the original ones a while. It took me some months to get used to the difference when I switched from the original torsion bars to 0.86" ones. You may not like it.

If you have your car set at the spec height, and drive on public roads, there is really no reason to change to stiffer bars. If your car is lower than spec, and it you drive it hard, there is an advantage as it will minimize the frequency with which your exhaust downpipes will be ground into the road under compression (sweeping up a hill at high speed).

A good mechanic should be able to help you identify which of your original bars goes on the right side should you decide to stick with them.

Larry

[00series]

Hi, due to my series 2 sagging on one side (NSF) & general issues on getting the car to sit at the right height on 45 year old torsion bars i fitted the Rob beere adjustable ride height plate.

http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/suspension.html

I now have a perfectly level car that can be adjusted at will for speed bump infested roads, fast European trips or track days.

It was definately money well spent & a worthwhile upgrade.

cheers, bert.

[chrisvine]

Thanks all for the advice.

I think I'm initially going to go with the standard bars and then change to the upgraded ones to see which I prefer. I had the originals shot blasted just in case I was missing the markings but no joy.

As Larry suggested, new bars are usually marked but not in my case. I called Vicarage who supplied mine and they said they should be stamped on installation.

I'm heading up to Hutsons next week. A hurrah moment ... to see the completed, painted bodyshell. So I'll take them along to see if they can work out which is which.

I've also purchased the Rob Beere adjustable reaction plate as it should provide a much more flexible solution.

Thanks again,
Chris