Radius arm

Technical advice Q&A
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MLBS3V12
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#1 Radius arm

Post by MLBS3V12 » Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:37 pm

I've a problem to remove the 2 radius arms from my S3. I've removed all the screws wachers and all thebits fited to secure the 2 parts but nothing happen ! The stay in place!
What has to be done to remove them?
Michel
Le chemin sera long!...

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ChrisC
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#2

Post by ChrisC » Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:57 pm

A common issue...

What I do is have the car sitting normally on the garage floor and put a block of wood behind the rear wheels. If you now jack the front of the car up the pressure seems to release a little and it is easier to lever the radius arms off the cups (which sometimes release suddenly)

I think there is actually a tool which is a little like a crow bar but usually a simple bar is all that is needed to free the arms off.

I am sure other people have other tips...
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk

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christopher storey
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#3

Post by christopher storey » Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:38 am

1.You should not need to remove screws and washers . The radius arms are usually retained to the cup only by the large centre bolt

2.The arms commonly rust themselves to the cups and are very difficult to separate . If you are lucky, you can do it by driving the car backwards and forwards at a slow speed - the load reversals often separates the arm with something of a bang!

3.If this doesn't work, then as has been said, it is a case of using leverage . One way is to make suitable wedges and drive them in and leave them for a day or two - regularly banging them to drive them further in and increase the pressure. Beware, however, of the fact that if they are that solidly rusted , the cup may well tear off the flat plate to which it is mounted . This happened to me last year, and is a great nuisance as replacing the cup is quite a time and effort consuming job

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wol916
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#4

Post by wol916 » Thu Mar 15, 2012 7:01 pm

I had one stuck fast and in the end the only way to remove it was to cut / burn the rubber out, remove the arm then very carefully cut the cup off using a die grinder (being very careful not to damage the car at all times). Not difficult but a real pain.
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Warren
S1 FHC 4.2 OSB

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abowie
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#5

Post by abowie » Sat Mar 17, 2012 6:52 am

This is the tool that was used to remove mine after I tried unsuccessfully for about 2 days. It looks like an old tyre iron.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71499700@N ... 843002922/

The problem with wedges etc is that the rubber does what it's supposed to and damps any forces applied to the central section of the bush.

Firstly, soak the bush several times over a day with WD40 both from the top and below.

To use this tool, install a longer bolt into the captive thread but don't tighten it completely down. Put the tool into the inside of the bush so that the curved neck rests on the bolt head. Locate the tip of the tool under the rim of the inner metal part of the bush. Tap/lever with the tool. The bolt head acts as a fulcrum. Move the tip around the circumference of the bush.

When I saw it used it took about 30 seconds. Mileage may vary.

When I re installed mine I drowned them in "Never Seize".
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457..oops. Jezza the V12 XJS race car.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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MLBS3V12
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#6 Another solution

Post by MLBS3V12 » Wed Mar 28, 2012 4:21 am

Thanks for your help.
It has helped me to find another simple one.
I've placed a small piece of steel between the Radius arm and the cup. there was enough place to do so. Then I've used the screw fitting the radius arm to the body inside the body to push on this small piece of steel.
Then the radius arm falls very easely.

The small piece of steel strong enough
Image
How it was before the arm falls
Image
Here is the rear out of the car. I've used a fork instead of a simple jackk to move the rear out.
Image
Le chemin sera long!...

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vee12eman
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#7

Post by vee12eman » Wed Mar 28, 2012 6:42 am

Wow, Genius - the principle is called a "Jackscrew" and is common in aircraft engineering, yet I never thought of this - almost worth a mention in the Knowledge base, or a sticky!

Well done Michel!
Simon S-Y
Series III FHC

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abowie
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#8

Post by abowie » Thu Mar 29, 2012 5:49 am

Agreed but how did you turn the bolt?
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457..oops. Jezza the V12 XJS race car.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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vee12eman
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#9

Post by vee12eman » Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:25 am

Hi Andrew,

My guess, from your puzzled response, is that you can only gain access to the top/inside of the cup on the long wheelbase cars, which can be reached by removing the rear seat base in the case of 2+2s and possibly by lifting carpet (or similar trim) in the case of the Series 3 OTS.

Have a look and see if you have access from above on the earlier, SWB cars and let us know. The hole is easily located if you have it, just a few inches behind the bolts securing the strap to the floor.

Regards,

Simon
Simon S-Y
Series III FHC

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christopher storey
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#10

Post by christopher storey » Thu Mar 29, 2012 2:39 pm

There is no top access on any SWB car. On those cars, the cup is integral with the mounting plate , to which the cup surface mounts

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vee12eman
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#11

Post by vee12eman » Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:04 pm

Hi again,

That's a shame, but I guessed that must be the case from your earlier response - oh well, strike up another advantage for the 2+2!

Regards,

Simon
Simon S-Y
Series III FHC

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MLBS3V12
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#12

Post by MLBS3V12 » Fri Mar 30, 2012 1:34 pm

So this is only interesting for the S3 owners!
Le chemin sera long!...

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vee12eman
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#13

Post by vee12eman » Fri Mar 30, 2012 11:03 pm

Hi Michel,

I guess it might be useful to the Series 1, 1.5 and 2, 2+2 owners as well, but I am not sure if they are the same.

Regards,

Simon
Simon S-Y
Series III FHC

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andy303
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#14

Post by andy303 » Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:58 pm

Simon:
It certainly applies to the S2, as I had my back seat out just yesterday to bleed the brakes. There is a cavity on either side just in front of the lower seat belt mounting points that on my car still had the original wad of kapok sound deadening stuffing. Out of curiosity I pulled the wad out to have a look and was gratified to see the paint down in there intact, no rust, and the bolt looking clean. I am guessing that the same arrangement was used on all the long wheel base body shells.

Another 2+2 advantage: you can bleed the brakes without ever having to have a wheel off the ground.
Andy Blackley
Chardon, Ohio
69 S2 2+2 http://www.xkedata.com/cars/detail/?car=1R41606
Fear God and Dreadnought

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