Petrol pump replacement

Shaguar · Post by **Shaguar** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:50 pm

I need to replace my petrol pump because when the car has been inactive for a period the car turns over but does not fire. When I purchased the car last April the previous owner informed me that the pump sticks and can be released by gently tapping with a hammer, which is correct.

I've looked at the SNG Barratt parts catalogue and it lists a standard points type and an electronic type. My question to the forum is which one to fit, I'm assuming that the standard one is fitted and therefore what modifications do I need to make to change to the electronic one?

Thanks in advance.

morganbing · Post by **morganbing** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:44 pm

Hi, either type can be fitted without any modifications.
The electronic version is more reliable but is, naturally, more expensive.
Always worth ringing a few suppliers to get the best quote.
Regards
Andy

Shaguar · Post by **Shaguar** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:59 pm

Thanks Andy :D

vee12eman · Post by **vee12eman** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:23 pm

Hi,
Try Burlen fuel systems for the pumps - may be cheaper to go direct rather than via a supplier. Also, try a rebuild/upgrade kit. The electronic upgrade can be fitted to a standard pump and all components come in one kit. Alternatively, a rebuild kit is available to restore the pump, but keep it original. I have just done this on a double ended pump from a V12, very rewarding and enjoyable, plus chaper too! I went for the original format with points and went from an old useless rusty pump which had sat idle for over 20 years, to a new looking and perfectly operating pump, with a small expenditure, use of a wire brush, lick of paint and a couple of enjoyable hours work. The pump did not work at all when I started, although I did manage to get it working with a bit of adjustment, just to check the integrity of the coils. Now it is fine. All parts came from Burlen, try the website for more info, can't remember the address, but I found it easily on Google. Also, they were very helpful over the phone. Just make sire you order the right bits - i.e. negative/positive earth and one or two other anomolies; Burlen will guide you through them. Given the symptoms you describe, I think you only need new points, I rebuilt the whole pump, seals and all - still much cheaper than a new complete pump.
Good Luck,
Simon.

Shaguar · Post by **Shaguar** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:56 am

Thanks Simon I will give that a try.
:)
Duncan.

Chuck Anderson · Post by **Chuck Anderson** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 4:56 pm

You might want to consider a less tradional, but more reliable approach that is quite a bit less expensive..

I would recommend looking into an aircraft fuel pump like Facet's 40105 - 12V Neg. Ground, 2-1/2 to 4-1/2 PSI Max.,30 GPH. 1/8 x 27 internal pipe ports.. About $33 USD.

See it at http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... tpumps.php

Cheers,

Post by **Heuer** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 6:21 pm

Two things: The SU electronic pump is very reliable and a direct replacement for the existing one. This means no mucking about fabricating brackets, wiring etc. Secondly the SU carbs want no more than 3.5psi of pressure presented to them. The Facet and other after market pumps go way beyond this requirement and can cause the carbs to leak and will certainly cause over fueling at idle.

Stick to the SU pump (electronic if the car is laid up for part of the year, standard pump is OK if car is used all year round) and invest in a Filter King and a cheap fuel pressure gauge. The Filter King will allow you to set the fuel pressure to the carbs (2psi is ideal) and prevents pulsing on the fuel line as the SU pump operates. Your car will idle smoothly, perform better, fuel economy will be improved and engine wear reduced. The Filter King has to be one of the best upgrades on an E-Type - simple and cheap. It also looks almost exactly like the stock filter bowl.

http://www.burlen.co.uk/partDetail.aspx?partID=52512

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Airmazing

The fuel pressure gauge is worth getting as I found my SU pump was producing 4psi with pulses up to 6psi! I installed it in the fuel line temporarily to set the Filter King at 2psi.

Shaguar · Post by **Shaguar** » Tue May 20, 2008 8:06 am

UPDATE
The new electronic fuel pump had been sitting in the garage for over a month and now that the radiator work was complete it was time to start the job. The pump is not very accessible, supported on a shelf and held in place by three bolts, all of which sits behind the metal inner wing in the boot space, so quite a lot of skinned knuckles

. Although once the bolts are undone the pump can be taken out whilst still connected to the nylon fuel pipes. Following the advice I?d decided to just replace the coil housing/end cover assembly; quite a straightforward job once the pump was on the boot floor. After it was all connected back up I took her for a run, the pump operated as soon as the ignition key was turned; now I can put my hammer away :D .

MarkE · Post by **MarkE** » Tue May 20, 2008 8:13 am

What a timely thread. Just turned the key on my S3...nothing. No happy chatter at all. Bugger.

Mark

andyp · Post by **andyp** » Wed May 21, 2008 12:24 am

From memory it is a 3/4" AF spanner you need Mark.

Undo the two screws securing the cover, locate the pump, wack it with the spanner.

Normal clickerty click from the rear should be resumed.

Andy

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