Clutch gone

[mgcjag]

Hi all....havent had time to use the car since last Sept when all was fine....just started up and it ran fine.....however could not engage any gear....can with the engin off....could see some time ago through hole in bell housing that the thrust bearing was wearing a bit thin. And was having to push down further on the pedel ..Slave cylinder is operating ok and checked the adjustment which was good....question.when the thrust bearing wears does it get to a point where the operating arm cannot move it forward enough to operate or does it continue to move forward wearing down the metal body in which case I would expect to hear some grinding....thanks Steve

[Moeregaard]

Steve, you might be dealing with two problems here. First, the release bearing can wear to the extent that metal-to-metal contact will occur. In my experience with E-Types, MGs, and just about everything else using carbon-faced release bearings, the clutch and gearbox will continue to operate normally--at least until you get the car home. If there's any carbon left on the release bearing, I would check the slave cylinder's pushrod for proper adjustment

You mention that the car has not been driven for several months. Stuck clutches are not uncommon in E-types that haven't driven in a long time, and I dealt with this when I bought my first in 1982. In some instances, this can lead to corrosion developing on the input shaft splines and this will restrict the driven plate's movement on the splines and lead to difficult gear changes.

[1954Etype]

Sounds like a stuck clutch. Get the car hot, really hot then try to engage gear. If that fails, you can try turning off the engine, put the car in gear and with your foot depressing the clutch and on the brake, try and start it.

Make sure you have loads of room in front of you and be prepared to switch the engine off! Brutal but worth a go.

[mgcjag]

Thanks for the reply mark. Managed to squeze under and inspect release bearing through hole in bell housing, still have approx 4mm carbon....removed return spring on slave and adjusted....still not working.....change out fluid tomorrow just incase its got some water or air in.........dont like the sound of the corrosion on the shaft restricting movemet....will se what happens tomorrom.....Steve

[christopher storey]

I usually have solved this problem with a variant of Angus's tactic. First, let the engine idle for about 1 hour ( make sure it doesn't boil) with a broom handle holding down the pedal. Sometimes this works on its own . Then, raise the rear and put it on axle stands with the rear wheels off, start in gear and apply throttle and brake simultaneously with the pedal still held down ( broom again ) . If this doesn't work , then resort to Angus's method

[mgcjag]

Hi and thanks for the help....clutch now free...took quite a while and had to resort to Anges,s method although I jacked up rear end and took wheels off...run engine untill really warmed up...stopped engine..put in gear applied brakes and turn ignition to start.......tried quite a few times untill it finally gave way.......feals very extream when doing it but saved me having the replace the clutch....Steve

[1954Etype]

Phew! Glad you're sorted and thanks for updating us!

[mgcjag]

This is for Geoff whos clutch was stuck at the weekend....is it free now.... Steve

[Gfhug]

Hi Steve, thanks for your help and advice.
Not free yet. Leaving the car to warm up the radiator fan relay failed and it boiled over, hot coolant all over the garage floor
I've ordered a new relay and will try the techniques you suggested (and those above) when I can get the car to run without boiling over.

Best regards

Geoff

[johnetype]

I usually have solved this problem with a variant of Angus's tactic. First, let the engine idle for about 1 hour ( make sure it doesn't boil) with a broom handle holding down the pedal. Sometimes this works on its own . Then, raise the rear and put it on axle stands with the rear wheels off, start in gear and apply throttle and brake simultaneously with the pedal still held down ( broom again ) . If this doesn't work , then resort to Angus's method

May I just say, assuming the pedal you refer to is the clutch pedal, I'd be very reluctant at running the engine for an hour with the clutch pedal held down as a consequence of having to replace the crankshaft thrust bearings in my engine as a result of what I suspect was excessive clutch use/clutch riding by the PO causing them to break up.

In my case the outcome was exacerbated by the fact that the oil filter element had been fitted the wrong way round so the bits of disintegrated thrust bearing went around and around the engine.

[cactusman]

I would agree John...running the car with the clutch pedal depressed for an hour will wear out the release bearing never mind the bearings in the engine...although I suspect that so not quite what Christopher meant.

[christopher storey]

Well, I have to say I'd never thought of that as a possibility.

[Gfhug]

Well to Steve (mgcjag) for his telephone advice, sjclark for his pm and all those who have posted on this topic:

No sign of the rad fan relay so with a bit of care the old one was opened up, contacts cleaned, refitted and tested all well.
This time the fans turned on and the coolant didn't flood the garage floor. Left her running for quite a while, then switched off.
Chocked the wheels, into reverse gear (well at least it would mean going out through the open garage door not through the wall), foot on clutch and tried the starter. A bump against the chocks and then a free clutch

Not quite all fixed as I'd fitted a new brake servo and will need to re-bleed the spongy brakes, otherwise ran well with clean gear changes

Geoff

[mgcjag]

Hi Geoff...good news....all the best.. Steve

[sjclark]

Good to hear that the clutch now releases.

[andyf]

I remember reading many years ago that over winter the trick was to wedge a piece of wood as described to keep the clutch pedal depressed to prevent the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel, but I always thought this would put prolonged pressure on the clutch master cylinder seals with adverse results. Other than frequently start and move the car backwards and forwards over a long layoff, I don't know an answer to this potential issue.

[Normam jones]

Resurecting this thread having just logged in after a few years away from both the forum and the car! I have same problem, series 1 FHC. But the only difference is i cannot engage gears when engine is switched off either.

Have bled the clutch plenty of air in it but a little worried that it will not engage with engine off. It has stood in garage for around 9 months with no symptoms of clutch problems wheh last driven

Any further thoughts ?

[christopher storey]

Norman : do you mean clutch won't engage with engine off, or won't DISengage ? or are you meaning that you cannot engage gears at all i.e. the gear lever won't move out of neutral plane ? If the latter then I suspect a selector rod malfunction, which can initially be checked by removing the tunnel cover

[Normam jones]

I can engage fwd gears with engine off but not reverse. My mistake for misleading description before.
With engine running however i cannot engage fwd gears and it crunchs in reverse.

[H7OB]

Mine has had similar symptoms a couple of times and was a stuck clutch as described. It also used to happen on my old Lotus. I’d get it nice and hot, turn off and then try to start with clutch down and brake on, in reverse for me (doors open behind car). This time I had to let it cool and repeat the following day. Serves me right for leaving it too long! It feels a bit brutal for your pride and joy but does the trick. Good luck. Let us know how you get on.