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#121

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 3:28 pm
by 64etype
lataud wrote:.... but i remembered that the mechanic had to change the order of the plugs in relation with the "123 electronic " manual , when he fired the engine for the first time. actually the engine starts very well and runs without any problem. (except over heating of course !)
I'm not at all familiar with the 123 system, but this sounds like he changed the firing order??? I do know that the engine will run surprisingly well albeit with a very slight miss with two wires crossed. Again, I'm not familiar with the 123, but this seems strange.

#122

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 5:27 pm
by neal herridge
David are they saying it will work with the 4.2 engine as well even though the slot is closer to the front. Also what temp does it work at my non correct stat is 74o which may compensate for it not covering the bypass.
Thanks Neal.

#123

Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 6:22 pm
by Heuer
Temp of stat is 74C although there is a 'winter' 82C version. With the thermostat mounted in the elbow the sleeve protrudes 10mm into the manifold so the by-pass slot needs to be deeper than that otherwise the sleeve will cover it when cold. Providing your slot is deeper than 10mm it will work. You could make the elbow recess deeper of course to make sure the sleeve is clear of the slot. Suggest you invest in a LR thermostat (around ?3) and work out if it will operate correctly in the 4.2 and report back.

#124

Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 5:25 pm
by neal herridge
I will get one David & report back , if I make the recess deeper may need a clamp ring to trap the stat worth the ?3/?4 to try.
Thanks Neal.

#125

Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 6:33 pm
by Heuer
Well done Neal. Let me know if you need any information or help.

#126

Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 7:09 pm
by Polse7317
I am checking the order of the plugs on the "123 ignition " , trying to understand what has the mechanic changed in the plugs order :
he has rotated all the plugs without changing the sequence of180?:
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Here is the order i found:
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at the beginning it was A and now B :

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Y tried the A position .....it was not a good idea , not fine !

#127

Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 7:38 pm
by mgcjag
Hi Yves...what you need to check is where does the rotor arm point to when No1 piston is on its compression stroke.......where it points you then label as 1 then just carry on around with the same number sequence as you have.........did you have this engine rebuilt?

#128

Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 8:20 pm
by Polse7317
Yes it has been rebuilt .
I'll do what you say with a help of a friend who is better mechanic than me, he told me exactly what you say today....!

#129

Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 9:32 pm
by ralphr1780
Yves,
The configuration B is the one which should be correct, BUT on condition that distributor is correctly placed and not rotated 180 degrees.
When you place the timing pointer at the front damper makings at 0?, the rotor arm should point to cylinder 6.
Please check that and revert with your findings.

#130

Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 4:47 pm
by neal herridge
I have posted an update re the stat problems under the thermostat thread.
Neal.

#131 Re: cooling and waterpump pulley misalignment problems

Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:09 am
by marc
Hi Yves,
sorry for speaking again about that subject, i recently got the same situation as you: may i ask you what was the cause of your initial overheating problem, when you first fired the engine after complete rebuild?
Thank you!
Marc (3.8 FHC, late 1963)