Help needed!!

[Chrisj]

Hello all

New to the forum as only had my S2 FHC a couple of months. As I mentioned in my hello in the welcome section id planned to do bits gradually, but recently my clutch gave up. Myself and my dad planned to remove everything ourselves and have got as far as the crankshaft damper, we can't remove it, we've tried levering both sides whilst smacking the cone, we've tried brute force from behind etc etc but gave up for the day.
Has anyone got any advice that may help? Also the reactor bar section seems very precarious is there anything we should be aware off.

Many thanks

Chris

[David Oslo]

I am assuming the engine and gearbox are out of the car? If so then you have good access to put on an impact gun, with proper impact sockets. Mine was stuck, tried my longest breaker bar, lots of welly, no chance. Then got out the impact gun, whizzed the nut off in a jiffy.

[christopher storey]

David : I think he's got the bolt off already . The problem seems to be that the damper is stuck on the keyway . I should try squirts of Diesel into the keyway slot itself and also onto the periphery of the cone

[mgcjag]

Hi Chris......yes as as Christopher suggests....but what are you trying to do.....you mention a reactor bar.....so i assume you mean tbe reactor plate.are you looking to remove it to take out tne engine.....if so then disconnect the hubs first to de tension the torsion bars...then remove it....are you looking to drop the engine or take it out the top.......

[Chrisj]

Hi all

Thanks for the replies. I managed to get the damper off tonight with a puller thank god! I've borrowed an engine hoist so once the reactor plate is out of the way and the rest of the fixings removed I'll hopefully take it out of the top which will be an experience! Thanks for the info re the hubs, when it mentioned removing the nut on the reactor then knocking the bolts through so they are flat to the plate before levering etc etc that part really worries me. That and the fact I have parts scattered around the house. Thanks all for the advice.

[mgcjag]

Hi Chris.....If your pulling the engine out the top then first get the rear end of the car jacked up high so there is room for the gearbox to swing down all the best... Steve

[dal2.0litrefrogeye]

Hi Chris ive used both ways to get engine out and to be honest lowering the engine out of the bottom and then lifting car up is definitely the more controlled way , what part of kent are you in ? im in Orpington and have a skate if you need to wheel the engine around , also have you released the tension on the torsion bars before taking reaction plate out , (sorry if im telling you how to suck eggs ) regards,Darren

[Chrisj]

Thanks for replies guys. We plan to sit the rear of the car on axle stands at least a foot up when we take it out. Taking it out the bottom would have been preferable for sure but it's being done on the drive weather permitting so we are limited.
I'm based in west malling just down the m20.
Definatly not teaching me how to suck eggs, I'm a complete novice when it comes to the mechanics, I've messed around with old bikes but never cars so any advice whether small or large will come in handy. We did plan when removing the reaction plate to sit the front of the car on axles, would that not de tension the torsion bars ?
As I said I'm very green at this stage so feel free to put me right.

[mgcjag]

Hi Chris......with the front up on stands and the wheels hanging the torsion bars are still under tension...this is held by the front shocks not letting the suspension fully drop....but do not just disconnect the shocks......to fully release the tension the top wishbone and steering trackrod end has to be disconnected.....great care must be taken when you do this and the instructions in tne Jaguar manual followed...if you dont have one they are in the knowledge base section......have sent you a PM with my contact number if you want to talk it through... Steve

[PeterCrespin]

... when it mentioned removing the nut on the reactor then knocking the bolts through so they are flat to the plate before levering etc etc that part really worries me. That and the fact I have parts scattered around the house.

I have done the pin method as per the book and it saves a lot of work leaving everything in place while you take just the reaction plate out. It's not for those of a nervous disposition though. If you do dismantle the suspension to release the torsion bar tension, I prefer to undo the bottom ball joint and keep the steering and brakes in the correct place by hanging the upper wishbones and uprights from a beam or bar across the frames.

Either way, give Steve a call and you'll avoid adding body parts to the stuff scattered around the house. Kudos to you for working outside - been there, had to do that.

Pete

[paulsco]

Hi Chris,

I removed the reaction plate for sump replacement/ repair only a week or so ago.
I do have a pit, so this makes it much easier, but there is no reason you will not be able to do it on your drive.
I agree that releasing the lower swivel ball joint would be best, but in all my years working on Jags, I have never been able to do this without releasing the top ball joint first. This is because the nut is so enclosed by the swivel hub and I have not been able to get a spanner in there; you may be more successful.
I always take the engine out the bottom; I think it is much easier.
Raising up the rear is good for taking out the engine from the top, but you need to release the tension on the reaction plate first and this requires dismantling the front suspension, so I would think you are backing yourself into a corner.

Anyway, the way I removed the reaction plate is:

Jack up the front of the car and remove wheels,

Unbolt the anti roll bar drop links,

Disconnect the steering ball joints,

Remove the shocks,

Disconnect the top swivels,

I rested the splines of the hubs on the top of a couple of plastic oil cans.

This should release the tension on the reaction plate.

I had to disconnect the exhaust as well to get access to the reactor plate bolts.
You will probably have to jack up the hub to remove the steering ball joints and the top swivel ball joint and maybe vary the order of disassembly of the other components.

If you haven’t got one already I would buy a good quality ball joint splitter; it will make the job so much easier.
Something like this:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht222- ... t-remover/

I hope this helps.
Paul

[mgcjag]

Hi Paul...your list needs a but more detail......you need to jack under the lower wishbone to take up the tension of the torsion bar befor disconnecting the shock absorber and top wishbone swivel.....the jack is then lowered to release the tension

[PeterCrespin]

Hi Paul...your list needs a but more detail......you need to jack under the lower wishbone to take up the tension of the torsion bar befor disconnecting the shock absorber and top wishbone swivel.....the jack is then lowered to release the tension

And if you jack up the wishbone rather than leaving it at full droop, there is plenty of room to get at the bottom ball joint nut with a ring spanner or socket and the right kind of splitter. After all, someone tightened it in the first place...

By breaking that bottom joint and lowering the wishbone under control, you don't need to undo the steering or anti-roll bar connections and there's no risk of straining a brake hose etc. if you hang the suspension from the frame. I also didn't like the sound of the hubs still attached to the lower wishbones resting on plastic oil containers, as that is surely insufficient to counteract torsion bar release, but maybe I misunderstood that bit.

[paulsco]

Perhaps with hindsight a little lacking in some detail, but I was only trying to describe my own experience.

A jack needs to be used under the bottom ball joint once the wheels are off, to level the swivel hub somewhat, to enable the top (or bottom ball joint) room for the ball joint splitter. Also to enable the shocks and the steering ball joint to be removed.

I have always disconnected the bolt on the bottom drop link as well as this enables the bottom arm a little more downward movement or at least less tension.

I tighten the bottom ball joint before I connect up the top, so there is more access to the nut. The oil can is simply supporting the swivels on the unloaded suspension, so it doesn’t hang away and put a strain on the brake pipes. It’s just the way I did it; as long as the hub is supported, this is your choice.

As Pete says, if you can manage to remove the bottom ball joint then this is a quicker way. I haven’t been able to do this, but if you can, go for it.

Paul

[Red Kite]

I used a turnbuckle as a belt and braces to unload the torsion bar. ( In case the jack were to slip sideways ! )

[paulsco]

Hi Gerry,

Looks like you are confirming that the bottom ball joint can be removed without the top being released.
Just me then :-(

Paul

[paulsco]

I have just been out to look at the E and I have to concede that the nut on the bottom ball joint IS accessible! (sorry Pete )

However I think the reason I had concluded that it wasn't was because I could see no way of unloading the suspension and using a splitter, as the jack needed to be under the ball joint.

I do not have and was not aware of the turnbuckle possibility.

I am always happy to learn though.

Paul

[mgcjag]

The only drawback i can see with the turnbuckle is that you have to jack under the wishbone to take the tension off so you can remove the damper you would then have to rely on the jack whilst you get your hands in to fit the turnbuckle and bolts......much safer to keep hands out and release the jack slowly

[Red Kite]

With the front crossmember on axle stands i jacked under the lower balljoint and also then supported the splined hub on another axle stand. Disconnected the shock absorber and replaced with the turnbuckle ( The roll bar link is still in place so would also stop the lower wishbone lowering too far ) After removing the jack and axle stand, the turnbuckle is supporting the lower wishbone. I then disconnected the anti roll bar link and lower ball joint and supported the upper wishbone. It is now possible to just wind down the lower wishbone using the turnbuckle. I also put a jack and piece of wood just under it as a safety stop.
At least thats how i remember it...... I still have the RHS to do !

I bought the 16mm Turnbuckle from here... https://www.s3i.co.uk/open-turnbuckle-eye-eye.php

[Chrisj]

I managed to get the reactor plate out, the way explained in the Haynes manual seemed impossible so I used the way described in the thread. The engine is now out thankfully but im a little puzzled as I was expecting to find a definitive problem.
The fault was I thought (and still do) the clutch, it started slipping early the day it broke down, and then wouldn't go into gear. With the engine off and it started in gear I then had no drive, i assumed that maybe the pressure plate had broken up possibly. But on removal it is in ok condition, but has some weird scoring inside?? Which I can't explain. Is it possible that it was stuck? That and the fact the slave cylinder return Spring was missing are my only anomalies? I'll change it while out but as I said earlier a complete novice and basically a little (a lot) clueless

Regards

Chris