diff pinion seal

Technical advice Q&A

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jory21
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Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2016 12:56 am
Australia

#1 diff pinion seal

Post by jory21 » Tue Sep 27, 2016 8:58 am

I would like to know how to replace the leaky seal at the front of my diff( pinion seal) I have removed the irs , undone the pinion nut after marking its position. what next hammer or puller ? How do I remove the flange to get to the seal?

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mgcjag
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Location: Ludlow Shropshire
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#2 Re: diff pinion seal

Post by mgcjag » Tue Sep 27, 2016 9:01 am

Hi search youtube...there is a wheeler dealer video that shows it being done
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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politeperson
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#3 Re: diff pinion seal

Post by politeperson » Tue Sep 27, 2016 5:40 pm

Yes I watched that as well. They were lucky, thats all I can say.

I marked the nut position and removed the nut.

A large puller was attached, the flange would not move.

The puller was really tightened, the flange tapped with a hammer, it would not move.

Oxyacetylene with cold water with running on the case, the flange would not move. Even tough it was glowing red then quenched.

Left the tension on overnight. Nothing in the morning, no movement.

The flange was now bent.

In the end, a large puller was attached with a meter long bar to hold the puller in place. Then the tension on the puller was really laid on with a breaker bar and extension. Two men involved. I really thought something would break.

It gave way. When it was off no one could work out why it had been so difficult, as no corrosion was evident.

So good luck.
James

L.J.K. Setright was right.
"You just cant beat a good E-type"

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valley7
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 1:31 pm
United States of America

#4 Re: diff pinion seal

Post by valley7 » Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:36 am

I'm digging up this old thread because I had a hard time getting my pinion flange off. Maybe not this bad, but after soaking it with Kroil for 2 days, heating it, and putting the most force I was comfortable with on a large gear puller, I decided to go a different route.

I made this attachment up so I could assert maximum force with the best support around the flange possible to prevent bending or breakage. The top is made of 1/2" steel plate and the bottom is 1/2" aluminum cut with a 2 1/4" hole so it fits tightly around the pinion. I used a well greased 1/2-13NC bolt for the main thrust. On the outside is a set of 4x 3/8" bolts that go thru the propshaft mounts attached the top and bottom plates together.

I had to jam a 2 ft bar in between the 4 bolts to pry against. It completely mushroomed the 1/2" bolt rubbing against the pinion (better the bolt than the pinion!!) but provided very effective leverage and took the pinion flange off without any harm.

Hopefully this will help someone else in this predicament.

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Stephen
64 XKE S1 3.8L LHD roadster
Parked since 1973 with 20k miles

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