Tried to fire her up tonight...but no....

[JagWaugh]

It can be seen here:

http://www.sngbarratt.com/ProductDetail ... 98e3e8&l=7

It looks like it is kept on its axle using 1 mm split spins or similar.

My bet is I will be taking them apart by tomorrow and find out what went wrong. I think either the split pin sheared or (worse) it has worked its way into the softer alloy. That would be tricky to repair then, if not impossible.

But at over 180 Euros each, ouch, that is expensive, I will find a way.

Carsten

Carsten,

They are fixed with pins, but I've never seen one sheared, or a broken lever.

Take off the bells & pistons. Check that all 3 jets lower by about 1/8" when you pull the choke, and that the jets return to the original height when you release the choke. If they do then your choke rings, levers, and jet return springs (beneath the diaphragms) are working fine.

The other part of the choke mechanism cracks the butterfly a bit, via the cam rods. See the bits marked in yellow here:

[Durango2k]

Hi Andrew,

Only the front one mooves the jet. Centre and rear: the lever mooves, but does not even touch the jet lever.

So it is visible from the outside already.

Will investigate further, maybe do as The Australian said - take the manifold off, take pics.

But I am getting close...

Its just so different to Weber carbs I am used to - there is no accel pump to blow additional fuel into the carbs when you rev it. This means it cannot be kept alive "pumping", which in turns means that the choke system is very much more essential on these cars...

Carsten

[JagWaugh]

But I am getting close...

Its just so different to Weber carbs I am used to - there is no accel pump to blow additional fuel into the carbs when you rev it. This means it cannot be kept alive "pumping", which in turns means that the choke system is very much more essential on these cars...

Carsten

I think you're down to the short strokes. I don't think it's possible to assemble the diaphragm/ring incorrectly but I do know, from trying to fit manual chokes to HD8s for the saloons that there are two kinds of choke rings: Pull, and push. The choke rings fitted to Daimler and some Austin Healeys are made up so that they work the opposite way to the ones on the E, but iirc you can rearrange the existing parts and make up a new 1/4" shaft to make them go the right way.

I hear sermons about how Weber and Dello carbs are better than SU from the guy I work with all the time. My standard response is "That might be true, however, this car has SUs fitted. They have two service adjustments and one selectable tuning part. Stop moaning and live with the simplicity."

[Durango2k]

It works !

I got an explanation on how to set the choke linkage from the german forum- and that did the trick. The U-carriers are adjusteable, this is what I did not see first-time. This way I could synchronize them.

After adjusting them so that they open the throttles simultaneously, and after adjusting them so that they all lift the needles at the same time, I gave it a start- and it fired.

Second or third try it decided to stay alive, and so I now have a stable, solid idle at 2400 rpm. No strange noises, no drips.

I think that when I change back to first step on the choke lever it will go down to, say, 1500 ?

Next job is to get the clutch and brake finally finished, so that I can leave the garage and fine-tune the engine. Inside the garage it'll kill me if I try any longer but 10 seconds...

Hooooray !, finally !, it runs !!!





Now: soon:

Carsten

[abowie]

Well done!!

[mgcjag]

Great news Carsten........now you can start enjoying it a bit more

[Heuer]

Idle should be 800rpm not 1500rpm which is far too high for safe use in traffic - off the throttle in top gear and you will still be barralling along rather than slowing!

[Durango2k]

I know, of course.

However, I only have a small shed / garage to work in.

So, for now, I'll finish other things, and when it finally mooves under its own steam,
I can drive it out on the yard, and adjust this.

But I cannot do it inside the garage, it'll kill me with it's CO in minutes if not seconds.

Truely, after a 10 second run the air is grey, and my clothes stink for hours.

Carsten

[nefematic]

Congratulations!

[288gto]

Congratulations indeed Carsten!

Would it be a big job to make some sort of ducting for the exhaust fumes so you can run the engine longer?

Simon

[golfnut324]

Carsten,

I've been following your progress for about 5 years and I'm really happy you have it running now. Congratulations!

[64etype]

Good show, Carsten.

[Durango2k]

Thanks guys- it is a big moment in every E-man to get it running. I imagine how it felt for Chris Rooke for example

Simon, I can simply put it the other way round in the garage, and push if back so that it does throw the gasses outwards. But that means *driving* it out and reverse it (no, not on the roof...), so clutch bolt first, brake bleeding second, then have a go.

Other problem is fear for theft growing- there are holiday appartments now on the yard, I am fully visible, so as long as I am inside I don't care, they have no idea whats inside.

But drive your polished E out, sync the carbs, back in, all in full view of 4 apartments sometimes inhabitated by eastern europe workforce, well, hm. Sold my pagoda for that reason...and I cannot reinforce the doors etc, its only rented and not mine.

So, I have to insure it this summer as well.

Carsten

[ralphr1780]

Congrats Carsten, we were many around here holding our breath.
Indeed, ensure you have proper insurance coverage, as wide as possible (=not only for theft but also for all other unfortunate mishaps).
Also, even with garage doors well closed, better to take as well preventive steps limiting the car mobility, many ideas listed on other specific threads.

[cactusman]

Excellent news Carsten. Best run outside as CO kills very quickly...that's bad. Do make sure your car is secured. Locks and chains and a tracker too....lots of ideas on other threads....

[Hugo]

Having just caught up with this saga, it occurs to me to ask whether the fast idle screws on the choke are set too fast. Why did it rev to 4,000 rpm? Not a desirable result at all. I would be inclined to back to fast idle screws all the way off, and indeed the normal idle screws as well, and just keep it alive by manipulating the throttles till you get to a more stable situation where you can start making the proper adjustments. Also, for some reason I've never fully understood, SU carbs will often start better with the damper unscrewed. Lets the piston rise more easily and less prone to flooding I guess.
What you were describing in an earlier post (that it would fire but not run) almost prompted me to ask whether you have a ballast resistor on the coil and whether it was wired correctly, but you seem to have got past that page now. Good luck!