LED Headlight Systems..2yrs on

[E-by'eck]

A quick forum review suggests the last post on this topic was 2014. Technology must have moved on as far as product development since then, and I came across the attached eBay item. 182223958987. Which looks interesting.
I know there are many posts re relays , direct from battery cabling, use of halogen bulbs etc.. but my restoration 3.8 car will remain dynamo +ve earth and this will likely still be all too much for my charging system.

I am interested in hearing from similar owners who have taken the LED headlight plunge recently and if they have as a result become "enlightened"
Regards Graham

[cactusman]

The ones in your listing are H7 bulbs. No use for e types. You would need H4 equivalents.
I have replaced many of the bulbs on my e with led versions but thus far not the head lights. Here is why.
The reflector in your lamp is designed to operate with a light source at a specific point both for the man and dipped beam in order to produce appropriate beam patterns for both dipped and head. This ensures dazzle is minimized in dip beam and correct distance illumination is achieved when on main beam.

So to replace a filament bulb with an led is entirely possible providing the led light source closely approximates to the filament.

You will find many hundreds of H7 led lamps on eBay etc. Most use a large number of lowish power (cheap) leds to achieve their claimed brightness. Thus you do not have a light source any where near approximating a filament. The beam patterns will be hopeless.

Your H7 does seem to have a single led element. You need to find an led H4 bulb with two point sources replicating the two filaments. They do exist. However most I have seen have large heatsinks behind the bulb and there to me is the stumbling block as, while the bulbs will fit in the reflector and may produce a reasonably good beam pattern, the size of the heat sink behind the bulb will make them not possible to fit in the small space inside the metal headlight bowl.

A good candidate bulb would be the Philips Ultinon H4 but at well over the £ 150 Mark they are extremely costly. For now, in my view, there is no obvious LED H4 at a reasonable price that will meet the requirements regarding beam pattern that will actually fit in the confined space afforded by an e type headlight bowl. I am certain they will come along but for now I stick with Bosch 60/55 watt halogen bulbs in the headlights. Sides, rears and indicators on mine are now all LED though.

If others have tried LED versions I look forwards to feedback on both fitment and performance though.

[cactusman]

And I meant to say the Philips bulbs mentioned above also have a control box that needs to be fitted somewhere that further complicates fitting. They are simply not and easy plug in replacement in the very limited space in an e type headlight bowl....

[Hugo]

[quote="E-by'eck"]
".... but my restoration 3.8 car will remain dynamo +ve earth ....."

Why would you keep it Pos earth? Only takes two minutes to change to Neg. Then you leave behind furry battery terminals and body corrosion.

[cactusman]

Agree Hugo. Converted mine to negative earth day after I bought her. Still on the trusted dynamo though. If you are still positive earth the led bulb range is very limited....

Personal preference but if going for led versions find warm white ones...the cool white just don't suit classic cars to me....

[Nickleback]

I am certain they will come along but for now I stick with Bosch 60/55 watt halogen bulbs in the headlights.

Julian, are these the best bulbs to stick with then on a std S2 1970 (ex XKE) setup then ?
I need to change mine to optimise, but it's on the winter list to be done but not got to it yet !

[cactusman]

Bosch, Osram, Philips... even Halfords. They all make ultra bright halogen type 60/55 watt H4 filament bulbs. Simple drop in fit. Brighter than budget halogen although they are very cold white. and MUCH brighter than the bulbs that would have been fitted when new. Expect to pay around £12 to £15 for a pair. Don't buy el cheapo bulbs off eBay with the blue glass....utter rubbish...I know . I am certain LED bulbs will come but for now the good quality ones have huge heat sinks behind and control boxes in the lead making fitting either tricky or just plain impossible.

I would recommend the thread covering fitting relays in the bonnet area with a direct feed from the battery. Ensures max voltage at the bulbs and also drastically reduces the current through the old dash switches too which is most beneficial...

[E-by'eck]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I started out restoring to +ve earth with originality in mind and have stuck with it in the knowledge that converting to - ve would not be a problem. Just keen to see a properly working ammeter!! Is body corrosion something I ought to seriously consider???

Appreciate your comments on LED headlight development Julian. Guess we will have to wait a little longer on that issue. As far as lighting with halogen is concerned, wondered how long you can travel for at night on dynamo power Julian with the amp draw the H4 headlight bulbs demand?

Regards Graham

[cactusman]

High Graham. Depending on the model and market a range of bulbs were fitted as standard to new cars. They ranged from 45/40 watt types up to 75/45 watt sealed beams fitted to home market 4.2 litre cars (although I am sure others were fitted too). So 60/55 watt bulbs are well within the range originally fitted and will be fine. Don't forget that a modern halogen bulb is much brighter than the old style non halogen or sealed beam units that were around in the 1960's...halogen give more lumens per watt. Power and current wise... Just to convince you...

Two 60 watt bulbs on main beam would draw 120watts/12 volts or a nominal ten amps. Add another couple of amps or so for instrument and rear lights and number plate lights and you get to about 12 or maybe 13 amps. Your trusty dynamo should produce at least 22 amps if fit and well so is quite capable of generating enough power for the lights and a bit extra. Do not be tempted to fit higher wattage bulbs though. You can get 100/80 watt or even higher wattage. Two of these will draw approaching the dynamo capacity but more importantly will exceed the current rating of the switch and possibly the cables.

Incidentally your amp meter will read correctly if you convert to negative earth as long as you reverse the wires feeding it. Corrosion only happens when a current flows from one metal piece to another via an electrolyte (e.g. water) . Battery polarity has no effect on corrosion of the tub what so ever. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

[E-by'eck]

Thanks Julian. As they say I've seen the light!!! I had already done the relay conversion for the rear brake lights so will dig out the headlight one.
Most helpful. Graham

[cactusman]

ah yes....the rear brake light relay is also a good idea. Did mine with a period Lucas relay....looks almost factory next to the existing cooling fan one. It is a shame the repro hydraulic switches are so crap...I seem to recall reading that sngb are making some better ones but I might be mistaken....wishful thinking maybe...I have also sneaked a small led under the dash that lights when the brake is applied.....just so I know juice is going to the brake lights. Easy to connect as there is a bullet joiner by the door post where the dash loom joins the run to the off side rear.

The headlight relay thread is 4919...my tablet seems to have given up on the copy/paste function for now

[Nickleback]

Bosch, Osram, Philips... even Halfords. They all make ultra bright halogen type 60/55 watt H4 filament bulbs. Simple drop in fit. Brighter than budget halogen although they are very cold white. and MUCH brighter than the bulbs that would have been fitted when new. Expect to pay around £12 to £15 for a pair.

Julian, what are RING like for quality ?

[cactusman]

Hi Mike. Have to say I am not sure but almost certainly fine. They do "performance" halogen bulbs that are E marked. Halfords own brand bulbs are not made by halfords. They will buy then from one of the big bulb manufacturers....may even be Ring.

So long as you buy a genuine E marked H4 bulb it should be fine. Beware though that eBay is plagued with E marked bulbs that are substandard or fake...if they seem too cheap they will be cheapo copies. The extra bright halogen bulbs seem to retail at around the £6 to £7 Mark or there abouts.

For brake, side and indicator bulbs though there are very good and extremely bright LED alternatives that will provide a good spread of light filling the car lens with illumination no worse than a filament bulb. Again go for the more premium priced lamps with e.g. Cree led chips and do check the physical dimensions to ensure they will physically fit. Get red ones for brake/rear, Orange or white for indicators and warm white for side and number plate. Do remember that LED bulbs draw much lower current so if you replace the indicator lamps your old flash unit will malfunction. Nasty solution is to add an extra parallel load resistor to make up the load to the old filament equivalent...around 3.5 amps. Better solution is to replace the flasher with an electronic one.

Lastly there is much discussion over the legality of fitting led replacement bulbs. Opinions differ but as I read the regs our cars are too old to be bound by the European E Mark regs or the 1986 construction of road vehicles regs so provided the lights you fit appropriately illuminate you should be fine....although I don't doubt others will interpret things differently. Mine has had led side, indicator and brake lights for two years and neither the mot man or the police have taken any notice

[Heuer]

These are my headlights after upgrading to relays and modern halogen bulbs:
Dip:


Main


The lane markers are 9 metres long with a 3 metre spacing to give you an idea of scale. That 'light' in the distance is a reflective road sign. Details of the conversion here: viewtopic.php?p=34430#p34430

'Ring' are a very well regarded supplier of automotive lighting.

[cactusman]

Ring have been around for years....any of their bulbs would be excellent. Like the photos. I did the relay and halogen upgrade and got very similar results. Having said that I would guess that few of us do huge mileage in the dark but for those times when dark driving is needed halogen bulbs would still be my choice for now.

[abowie]

Fascinating.
I have owned 4 E types over the last 6 years. I have never found it necessary to turn on the headlights.

[cactusman]

Maybe Adelaide has more photons sent from the Sun than we do here in gloomy old blighty

[Heuer]

Like you Andrew, I have never had cause to drive my E-Type in the dark but it is comforting to know that if we have a setback on one of our long tours a journey in the dark will be easy.

[E-by'eck]

Your right Andrew. Now I am in a quandary? Perhaps I am going for overkill? Maybe a couple of candles will do.
Graham

[PeterCrespin]

It's not often I'm shocked, but owning umpteen E-types and never switching the headlamps on, or doing serious miles in one but never venturing out after dark leaves me amazed. Especially after upgrading the lights!!!

Isn't it a quintessential part of the E-type experience to go out on a summer's evening and meet friends or have a barbie or a nice meal out? Then there's the mellow drive home on a balmy evening, with moths and bugs caught in the headlamp beams while you chat to your significant other, then put the car away, with the exhaust ticking as it cools, before finishing with a little night cap?