slave master cylinder

Talk about the E-Type Series 1

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kecarn
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Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:07 pm
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#1 slave master cylinder

Post by kecarn » Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:37 pm

Clutch Problem
1965 etype . I have pressure bled the clutch hydraulics and have this problem . If I leave the slave cylinder (non hydrostatic ) return spring off the clutch feels fine , if I add the spring I have to pump it once to feel normal , feels like there is air in the system. If I increase the length of the rod into the slave cylinder and add spring it feels fine, although there is no free place until clutch peddle is pressed once
The PO went for the shorter rod and no spring .
Any suggestions
Keith

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mgcjag
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#2 Re: slave master cylinder

Post by mgcjag » Wed Jul 10, 2019 7:59 pm

Hi Keith....try bleeding again....use standard method.....on last stroke of pedal hold it down...but beforeyou tighten the bleed nipple fully push in the pushrod on the slave..you will probably see extra air bubbles....tighten nipple....release pedal......then adjust pushrod as per service manual....Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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Topic author
kecarn
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#3 Re: slave master cylinder

Post by kecarn » Wed Jul 10, 2019 9:07 pm

Hi Steve , thanks for the reply , I have tried what you have suggested and the result was the same . I then pressure bled the system , guess I could have another go . I have also replaced aLl seals on both cylinders . Keith

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Durango2k
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#4 Re: slave master cylinder

Post by Durango2k » Wed Jul 10, 2019 9:47 pm

I thik the only working version is to use a spring, and a rod long enough to be hold back by the spring AND also leave the piston just a tad free play. Why ?

Because the version without the spring and the short rod will wear out the bearing, as it will always sit in the clutch. I tried, it does, the fluid alone under gravity pushes the piston out so the arm rests the bearing on the clutch. This is why Jaguar themselves got rid of the idea after some months and reverted to the former system.

The spring version however with the short rod will simply not push enough forward. I tried. No way to open the clutch. Not even by pumping.

Finally, i welded an old rod / nail on the original short bolt, and cut it with a grinder until it was fully screwed into the adjuster, and sitting near to the piston.I could not source a long version of the bolt, so I made one. If the clutch wears, I can screw it a bit outwards, job done. And the spring keeps it back so the piston will not have a chance to touch the rod when it‘s fully mooved outwards by the fluids gravity - so the bearing will not ride on the clutch. When I press the pedal, it works against the spring, closing the gap, and then pushing the rod after 3/100 mm something, and opens the clutch.

I am pretty certain that under the given circumstances only this setup will work properly. I was down there in the pit for quiet some time...

Carsten
Jag E '66 S1 2+2, Citroen DS 23 Pallas iE, Citroen SM 3.0, Concept Centaur MK1, Citroen 11 BL '54, Sinclair C5, Velosolex

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Topic author
kecarn
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Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:07 pm
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#5 Re: slave master cylinder

Post by kecarn » Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:56 pm

When I try to adjust the free travel between rod and slave I have the following problem, with 1.6mm setup there is little resistance in the clutch pedal the first time it is depressed and bites low to the floor . Next time I press the pedal it is fine.
If I adjust the free travel without the spring and pushing rod into the slave ,the clutch bite and pedal are fine , althoughi I think this means when the spring go on there is no 1.6mm adjustment.
Have re bled system again manually and under pressure .
What am I doing wrong .
Thank you Keith

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mgcjag
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#6 Re: slave master cylinder

Post by mgcjag » Fri Jul 12, 2019 11:17 am

Hi Keith...have a look here....some very good information.....Steve http://forum.etypeuk.com//viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9381
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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