Oil or petrol?

[Vonkie]

After her oil level was low first time I checked after taking her home (like halfway between tip of dipstick and start of hashed bit), I put in 4 pints of Castrol Classic XL 20W 50, and then the next day, as it showed only the start of the hashed bit after a few hours rest, another pint. That went halfway into the hashed bit, and after some driving, and a few days, it has stabilised there with no loss.

On a video of driving her in bright sunlight, one sees the lights up ahead flickering when she idles in traffic, and if one looks carefully, one sees what may be petrol fumes on idling making the light flickering effect. This is not something one sees with the naked eye. There's been a constant exterior fuel smell. Nothing drips when starting or idling. When I walk into the garage in the morning, I get quite a whiff of fuel.

Been finding blotches of what is either oil or petrol on the garage floor. This occurs between the front wheels, about smack in the middle. Two days ago, I decided to put white sheets of paper under the car to try to catch it. After a little night drive, the next day the paper was clean, but it seemed a spot had missed the paper. So last night, I extended the area covered by bright sheets of paper. Drove her again for a little night drive last night (checking a discharging issue when idling with headlamps on - that's for another day). This morning, I took photos of the oil/petrol on the white paper.

I suppose I could see how well the stuff on the paper burns? Petrol should flare and oil not?

[Heuer]

1. Have you checked the dip stick is perfectly flat? It can end up with a curve in it because the sump baffle bends it which leads to under reading of the oil level. This in turn leads to over filling which can be very hazardous to the engine. If the level reaches the crank with the engine running the oil will become aerated (constantly being slapped by the small ends) and the pump will be ineffective leading to bearing failure. I know of one person who had to have his engine rebuilt as a result! If in doubt drain the oil and refill with the recommended measured amount and look to where it comes to on the dip stick. Mark it with a small file so you know what is correct for your engine.

2. Fuel can drain from the carb overflow pipes if a float is faulty - try putting a jar or bottle directly under them after a run although bear in mind it will evaporate over night.

3. Your blobs look like oil to me and you should be able to smell it. The paper causes the oil to separate leaving the black blob in the centre. If it is fuel you should be able to smell it. If in doubt drop a bit of oil and fuel on the paper and compare to the ones you have.

4. Check the fuel filter bowl as fuel can leak if the gasket has failed or the retaining clamp is not tight.

[Vonkie]

Thanks David

Well, if by "flat" you mean straight, then my dipstick is anything but. It has a huge kink in the fat bit - I thought that was standard. See photos. The bottom bit is straight.

Is this correct?

[Moeregaard]

Oil on the floor between the front wheels is often from a weeping front main seal. Any fuel leaks will usually be directly underneath the carburettors--either from the drain pipes or from the carb bodies themselves. Leakage from the drain pipes is often the result of a sunken float, while fuel coming directly off the bottom of the carbs is usually a failed jet diaphragm. The latter was a real problem on our side of the pond, when we discovered that the stuff that passes for petrol over here had some chemicals (alcohols and toluene) that were incompatible with the diaphragm material. Most of these jet assemblies have been replaced, but since so many of you have cars re-imported from the U.S., I thought it worth mentioning.

If the aforementioned bits are OK, and you still smell fuel without seeing any on the ground, have a good look at the fuel tank and its plumbing. Common failure points are perished filler/vent hoses and the areas around the fuel pickup plate and gauge sender, and around the sump gasket under the rear of the car. I would also check for wetness around the pump and all fuel-line banjo fittings. The oil leaks are a pain in the neck, but even a few drops of fuel leakage can lead to a really bad day.

[marc]

hi everybody,
if a few among you happen to have an original one on your car(s), i would like very much to know the exact useful length of the engine oil dipstick (only the part that gets into the engine). Could you mesure without the felt ring?
I am not sure where mine is coming from and i have a funny (for the moment...) issue with the amount of oil necessary in order to get the level in the middle of the knurled area.
thanks a lot!

[Heuer]

The E-Type dipstick should 9 3/4" from cap to tip

[marc]

Thank you David,
in fact my question was a bit stupid, what is meaningful is the length from the cap to the center of the knurled area, around which the oil level should be. Would you be so kind? (or add the distance from tip to the center of the knurled area to your previous answer?)
Again, thanks a lot, and best wishes

[Vonkie]

Thanks for all the help.

Update: (She is still not back in my loving care)

(hearsay) float chamber in carb was indeed fuel culprit and banjo joint replaced.

(hearsay) two small cracks in exhaust cam cover were oil culprit - TIG welded so let's see.

Despite my faith in the expertise of the TIG welder, I've been looking at procuring a new exhaust cam cover. I make the pessimistic (if perhaps pragmatic) assumption that sooner or later, I should probably replace it. Relatively cursory searches, including SNGB catalogue, suggest that the inlet cover is no longer available but the exhaust cover (the one with the oil filler hole and cap in it) is maybe still available as being manufactured, but not in stock.

The catalogue is a tad confusing in this regard - it seems that the part number for engines after 2600 (mine is RA 4425-8) is C18042E.

Can I get this anywhere manufactured as new? If so, where, and at what cost (bearing in mind duty and shipping to the tip of Africa). Let me know if I should rather post this separately in the subforum looking for parts.