Removing 4.2 Engine

Talk about the E-Type Series 1
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AussieEtype
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#1 Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by AussieEtype » Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:43 am

My neighbour has a 66 Series 1 4.2 Coupe which as a T5 gearbox. Two years ago he had to remove the engine/gearbox to fix something and noticed a small oil leak of gearbox oil from the bell housing. For better or worse he decided to not do any thing about it.

In removing the engine/gearbox he raised the body and lowered the unit - the biggest issue he found was removing and reinstalling the torsion bars to get the engine out - note I know nothing about Series 1 cars as I am V12 through and through and to get the V12 lump out is easy peasy - out the top.

Now he has another issue with the gearbox and it needs to come back out and he has decided to fix the oil leak as it has got a bit worse - as I said he can drop the engine etc out the bottom bit doesn't like it.

So the questions are:

Can you drop just the gearbox leaving the engine and IRS in? He has the original drive shaft, or

Can you take the engine/gearbox unit out through the top in a home garage using an engine hoist noting that unlike the V12 the top cross brace that the radiator hangs off is not removable.

Thanks

Garry
1971 Series 3 E-type OTS
1976 Series 2 XJ 12 Coupe

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abowie
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#2 Re: Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by abowie » Mon Jun 04, 2018 1:24 am

garrycol wrote:
Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:43 am

Can you drop just the gearbox leaving the engine and IRS in? He has the original drive shaft, or

Can you take the engine/gearbox unit out through the top in a home garage using an engine hoist noting that unlike the V12 the top cross brace that the radiator hangs off is not removable.

Thanks

Garry
You can't get the gearbox out without removing the engine.

You can take the engine and gearbox out the top as you describe but it really is a lot easier to remove the torsion bars and reaction tie plate and drop it out the bottom.

The only caveat with this is that if he has a Medtronics JT5 box with the tailshaft that slides into the gearbox he may not be able to get the engine far enough forward to get the two disconnected. I had to drop my IRS to install my JT5 box. See here
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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#3 Re: Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by AussieEtype » Mon Jun 04, 2018 3:53 am

Thanks Andrew - it is a T5 built by Mal Woods in Brisbane with his rear housing - and sold retail by Spitiri.

So it is a drop below then :cry:

I will pass on the message.

Garry
1971 Series 3 E-type OTS
1976 Series 2 XJ 12 Coupe

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#4 Re: Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by mgcjag » Mon Jun 04, 2018 7:29 am

Hi Gary...as Andrew says above..it is far easier to remove the torsion bars and reaction plate by disconnecting the front hubs to release all the tension.....the difficulty usually comes when pins are used to retain the torsion bars in place and just remove just the reaction plate......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#5 Re: Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by PeterCrespin » Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:22 pm

What is the difficulty Steve? I’ve just done it that way, as usual, and reinstalled (with a Broadsport 5-speed). For any 6 cyl car that has good ride height prior to engine removal (and isn’t undergoing a total strip-down) why disturb the suspension?

Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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#6 Re: Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by AussieEtype » Mon Jun 04, 2018 11:23 pm

Thanks for the discussion - will be pushing the car out of the garage today to turn it around so that there is space for the engine hoist.

Cheers

Garry
1971 Series 3 E-type OTS
1976 Series 2 XJ 12 Coupe

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#7 Re: Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by mgcjag » Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:43 am

Hi Pete.....yes it can be done but as im sure you are aware many have difficulty in doing it....partly becaus they are unsure what they are actually doing....and for some reason the fear factor that gets associated with the torsion bars.....and also that some try with the incorrect pins.......in my opinion its far easier to release the tension by seperating the front hub top wishbone.....you can still leave the torsion bars in place and not upset your settings and use the pins to remove the reaction plate in the same way as if it were under tension..... Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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angelw
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#8 Re: Removing 4.2 Engine

Post by angelw » Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:55 am

Hello Garry,
You have to remove the Reaction Plate irrespective of whether the engine removal is out the top, or bottom. Accordingly, as its easier (I find it to be) to drop the engine out the bottom, then I would go that way.

I concur with Peter Crespin in that its not difficult to leave the torsion bars in place and just remove the Reaction Plate.

Regards,

Bill

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