Series 1 Horn stopped working

[SpeedieJag]

Hi everyone,

Well the horns on my Series 1, 1965 OTS stopped working today. When I push the center horn button I can hear the horn relay click. When I insert a screwdriver into opening on the upper steering wheel shaft/assembly and ground it, I can hear the relay click. I removed the horn button assembly and don't see anything amiss. So, what is my troubleshooting path now?

Thanks from the US,
James

[SpeedieJag]

Well I solved the issue. I went back out and checked the fuses and I had inserted a fuse on the wrong side of the holder, thus causing a short. All is well with the horn.

But .... now the brake lights won't go on. The rear tail lights and turn signals work wonderfully. But when I press the brake pedal, nothing happens. I checked fuse #6 for the brake lights, it looks good. I ran the wiper motor which I believe to be on the same fuse, it runs. Suggestions?

Thanks

[Gfhug]

James, the E Type brake lights are switched via a brake fluid pressure sensor/switch on the firewall which can be unreliable.
An upgrade is shown in this topic: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3134
SNG Barratts sell new switchs which are supposed to be much better than the old troublesome ones.
If you don't have success otherwise you might wish to try the simple upgrade and/or buy a new switch.

These may help in the long term.

Is it possible you've disturbed some wires in the fuse box area? Try shorting out the wires on the firewall switch to see if that puts the brake lights on to see if it is the sensor switch at fault.

Geoff

[cactusman]

The brake lights are fed from fuse six which also feeds the horn relay, screen washer and the engine fan relay so if any of these also don't work investigate the fuse. You say the horn works so as suggested you may have dislodged a wire from fuse six. If all seems ok at the fuse then check there is 12 volts at the green wire at the brake switch with the ignition on. This is located on the front picture frame on the off side near the relay for the radiator fan. If there is 12 volts then try connecting the green wire directly to the other wire at the pressure switch...it is green and purple. The brake lights should now be on. If they are then the pressure switch has failed. The bog standard intermotor generic replacements are awful. Even with light use they fail within a year and are really best avoided. OE ones appear on eBay from time to time. SNGB sell their new updated one which I have on my car and thus far it seems ok....it has lasted more than a year. To replace the switch have the new one to hand, unscrew then old one and immediately pop the new one in. You may loose a drop or two of brake fluid so have some kitchen paper to hand. You should not really need to bleed the brakes if the swap is swift

[SpeedieJag]

Thanks everyone for the support.

It turns out it is my Brake Pressure Switch, or to be more specific the wire blade connectors on top of the switch. I disconnected the wires from the top of the switch and bridged them with some wire and success!! brake lights. So, I reconnected the wires and pressed the brake peddle and Success!! brake lights. Turns out the top mounted electrical connecters were "wiggly" (technical term) and not making a consistent contact. So I got my super glue out to secure the loose top mounted contacts. A little glue on the contacts and Success!! for now.

I think the next step is replacing the hydraulic brake switch with a mechanical switch - more reliable, less prone to being "wiggly" and quicker brake light activation. The installation of the switch is simple - I just need to figure out the wiring.

Again, Thanks everyone for the support. Time to go for a drive.
James in Fullerton, CA

[cactusman]

Just run an pair of wires from your new switch to the existing wires at the hydraulic switch.