Faults found on '68

[jagwit]

I though I should summarize the issues found on a '68 FHC which I have " adopted" - just for your entertainment. Car belongs to a friend who does not have the know how to fix it himself.

1) Replaced distributor with 123 Bluetooth programmable version. Nothing wrong with original other than still using points. I simply was not willing to work on the car without a modern ignition system.
2) Wrong thermostat was fitted. This meant that the bypass circuit was permanently allowing coolant to bypass the radiator - even when engine was at operating temp contributing to over heating;
3) Secondary bypass "circuit" through otter switch opening which allowed coolant from the large pipe through to the header tank and then to the top RH radiator connection. This was corrected by inserting a blockage with an orifice just large enough to allow air to escape the radiator RHS back into the header tank;
4) Radiator fan was fitted IN FRONT of the stone mesh thus leaving about 50mm of space between the mesh and the radiator for fan air to bypass the radiator core. Fixed by fitting an electric fan into the fan shroud. Had I known that the owner still had the original fan, I would have fitted that rather.
5) Vacuum leak found in one way valve to the vacuum reservoir;
6) Vacuum leak found between reaction valve steel back plate and the master cylinder. These two vacuum leaks caused the spark plugs to appear as though they were dipped in cooking oil and then into icing sugar!
7) Brake servo diaphragm was torn;
8) Carbs seriously unbalanced and fuelling not correctly set;
9) choke setting was not correct either - set correctly;
10) Temperature gauge was not reading correctly - bad connections and calibration of gauge sorted it;
11) Rev counter not working - tacho generator innards had come loose, drive dog stripped;
12) Main beam flash (with indicator stalk) did not work - bad connection of purple wire to fuse holder;
13) dash indicator lights did not work, - wrong flasher unit fitted;
14) Engine mounts perished (they were still '68 original!!)
15) Headlight connectors to bulbs required replacement
16) Replaced leaking oil pressure switch
17) wrong tyres fitted. 195/70/15 commercial vehicle tyres. Yet to be sorted.

[phil.dobson@mac.com]

Apart from that it was fine :-)

[christopher storey]

Throw the 123 in the bin and you'll have a properly working car !!

[politeperson]

Thats a mountain of time consuming faults, I assume you have fixed them, well done.

No problem with the 123 as far as I am concerned.

What do you mean about the expansion tank issue?

I took my car out in freezing temps last weekend and the temperature did not climb very high at all on the gauge. This made me think I had a thermostat/cooling system issue. It is a standard S2 thermostat I believe, about 3 years old.

I have a huge radiator, but that should not make any difference to the engine not getting up to temp.

Any thoughts?

James

[cactusman]

Mine had a list longer than an arm....most now fixed after six years!!!!Part of the joy of old car motoring....at least they can be fixed

[jagwit]

Yep, except for the tyres, all problems sorted.

With regard to the header tank, please refer to the drawing below:

S1 Header tank.jpg (28.11 KiB) Viewed 2777 times

The header tank on this car (a stainless steel aftermarket unit), has 3 hose connections:
1) Large pipe connecting to engine (thermostat housing): Hot coolant from engine flows INTO this pipe;
2) Large pipe connecting header tank to LHS top of radiator: Hot coolant from engine flows OUT of this pipe into radiator;
3) Smaller connection to RHS (cold side) of radiator: The purpose of this connection is ONLY to facilitate filling of the cooling system;

Problem was that the otter switch (modern fan switch in this case - depicted by the "arrow") did not plug the hole in the large pipe that runs through the header tank, allowing meaningful amounts of coolant to flow along the path as shown by the red line from engine via cold side of radiator directly back to engine without being cooled by radiator.

I essentially blocked this smaller pipe at the radiator except for a small orifice that would allow air to escape from the cold side of the radiator back into the header tank. Filling the cooling system, now relies on the opening left by the fan switch for coolant to flow into that hole and into the radiator.

As for your engine not getting to operating temp, I think the thermostat is stuck open. The first thing I would do, is test the thermostat by boiling it in a kettle to see if it closes. Then I would also measure the actual coolant temp eg using an Infra red tester (note, they do not read correctly raw on alu surface or raw stainless steel)

[jagwit]

I assume you have fixed them,

Yep, its a "get-in-and-drive-with-confidence" car now.

I keep telling the owner that he can now drive the 1600km from Pretoria to Cape Town (and back) with confidence, but after struggling with the car for over 20 years, I understand that it will take some time before he will share my confidence in the car.