problem with cam follower

[rfs1957]

http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-tool ... -installer

Fascinated by this, never knew such a tool existed ?

Can see how it would pop out an installed pair of collets, but not how you would use it to compress the springs in a controlled way to get them back in.

I'd have thought banging them on would lead to the collets scoring the valve stem, but I'm obviously wrong.

Please enlighten us Andrew, as I am poised to buy one, looks brilliant !

[abowie]

You need something supporting the valve head underneath. We have the "boobie board" which seems to have six breasts made of wood, but you could use pretty much anything.

[rfs1957]

Yes, get the need for an anvil ; but you just load both collets, apply hand-pressure to the tool to centre it and compress the spring-retainer a bit, then whack it with an appropriate blow ?

You're not winding us up over Smith being caught by Stokes ?

[abowie]

All it takes is a solid two hand push to compress the springs and the collets drop in. The bench I use has a vertical back on it and the head rests against that so you have plenty of purchase.



Bouncing the collets out usually needs multiple goes and I tend to use a hammer, although the magnet helps pull the collet out of the way once it's loose. Chris, my boss, just uses a deep socket and a hammer.

The "boobie board" has hemispherical wooden pieces on it that line up perfectly with the chambers but you could use whatever you want under the valve. I've not removed valve collets on an E Type with the head on but I have done it on a Honda. I used the rope in the cylinder trick as I wan't confident about using compressed air.

You can also buy valve compressors with a frame that will mount to the studs on the top of the head and wind down on the spring so you don't have to hit anything. I've not ever used one.

[SteveRTennison]

All the springs and valves were replaced when the engine was rebuilt so I tend to go with the dodgy batch of springs hypothesis - the car has only done 3000miles since the rebuild.

Just getting onto checking the gaps with the head still of the car - anybody got a suggestion for rotating the inlet cam shaft to do this, exhaust cam shaft is OK as it has a lock nut on the end.

[rfs1957]

I use a 3/8 UNF bolt locked with a lock-nut into one of the sprocket-mounting threads on the cam, and then use a 9/16 AF spanner on it. Watch out for valve-valve contact, therefore easier if you remove the cam you're not measuring.

[abowie]

As Rory says. I only install one cam at a time. Install the downward pointing 5/16" studs in the front of the head and put a 1" high piece of wood under the back to support the head.

I have a cam vernier with a bolt welded in the centre but if you install 2 bolts you can use a lever to turn the cam.