Engine removal

Talk about the E-Type Series 1
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Mich7920
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#21 Re: Engine removal

Post by Mich7920 » Thu Nov 14, 2019 9:31 am

Hi Pete,
If you want to moove your car after removal engine by the bottom, just retiting your ball joints, replace the dampers by a good length straight bar and refit your weels.
But trying to do the job without release tention on torsion bars without lift is really really difficult.
Mich
Michel
1963 E Type OTS - Angus Restoration
1965 E Type FHC - On the road at last !

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peters3103
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#22 Re: Engine removal

Post by peters3103 » Thu Nov 14, 2019 10:06 am

Agreed, I guess the extra effort and time will make the reaction plate removal less traumatic. I’ll do as you suggest and I’ll replace the shocks temporarily with steel bar.

Cheers,
Pete
61 FHC
99 XKR FHC

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#23 Re: Engine removal

Post by peters3103 » Fri Nov 15, 2019 7:59 pm

I’ve just realised that the 4 bolts securing the torsion bar tie plate have been inserted the wrong way around necessitating the complete removal of all the bolts to get it off in any case.I cursed the person who was responsible, then realised it was, in fact, me about 12 years ago when I adjusted the ride height. :banghead:

Cheers,
Pete
61 FHC
99 XKR FHC

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#24 Re: Engine removal

Post by peters3103 » Sun Nov 17, 2019 1:04 am

Hi,
Glad to report engine is safely on the garage floor. A minor mishap when the engine hoist tipped forward so employed another hoist with longer legs that did the job. I’m having difficulty removing my Champion spark plug caps which haven’t been removed since I first fitted them. No matter how hard I pull them up they won’t release. Reluctant to use grips of any sort as I’m sure they’ll get damaged. Any experiences here?

Cheers,
Pete
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ollieoscarsid
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#25 Re: Engine removal

Post by ollieoscarsid » Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:43 am

I’ve got this coming up shortly, so was an interesting read. Thanks. Just wondering about the reaction plate, can the engine and box go in from underneath with it in place? On disassembly it all came out the top in bits. Ideally I want to assemble to rolling chassis with the car on a trolley, remove from trolley and pop the engine in from under. Is this possible? Ta. Chris.
1963 S1 opalescent silver blue

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mgcjag
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#26 Re: Engine removal

Post by mgcjag » Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:55 am

Hi Chris...No engine cannot go in from the top or bottom without removeing the reaction plate...some have said on this forum that it can be inserted from above with plate still in position but the bulkhead has to be bent and engine levered in......Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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#27 Re: Engine removal

Post by peters3103 » Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:01 am

It’s a pretty snug fit even with the reaction plate removed. I don’t know why you’d even bother trying. (speaking from experience today!) Releasing the tension on the torsion bars and removal of the tie plate is absolutely essential.
Found I didn’t need to remove the crankshaft damper though, just the pulley.

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#28 Re: Engine removal

Post by mgcjag » Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:58 pm

Great that you got it sorted Pete....much quicker to actually do than all the time spent thinking how to do it :bigrin:
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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#29 Re: Engine removal

Post by peters3103 » Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:16 pm

Ain’t that the truth Steve. This job is long overdue but I do actually enjoy doing it as long as I don’t bugger anything up (too much). After all, a bloke needs a project! I guess owning two Jags & and old Beeza there’s always something on!

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Pete
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PeterCrespin
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#30 Re: Engine removal

Post by PeterCrespin » Mon Nov 18, 2019 12:18 am

peters3103 wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 11:01 am
Releasing the tension on the torsion bars and removal of the tie plate is absolutely essential..
There is a method - described in the official factory manual, no less - for removing the plate without releasing the torsion bar tension. Works fine and has been described here many times.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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#31 Re: Engine removal

Post by peters3103 » Mon Nov 18, 2019 1:36 am

Yes, agreed Pete, I did it that way last time but still managed to mangle the threads but that just me (and working solo). I had to remove the bolts completely this time as they were put in the wrong way around.

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Pete
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PeterCrespin
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#32 Re: Engine removal

Post by PeterCrespin » Mon Nov 18, 2019 10:33 am

Fair enough. FWIW, I don’t worry unduly about the threads on the two small bracket bolts. The reaction plate is held in place by the bigger fasteners and its snug fit between the rails helps its main role of preventing them twisting under load.

The two small bolts are mainly under shear stress on the plain part of the bolt shank. The thread is there to keep the bolt in place, rather than to support a significant tensile load. Provided the a bolt is used rather than a fully-threaded set screw, then if working on your own car it’s not a mortal sin IMO to let the nut reform a smeared thread on tightening.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas

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