Refubrishing series I seats
#1 Refubrishing series I seats
Hello,
Can the original leather covers of the early series I seats be removed from the seat frames and seat cushions without damaging and after the upholstery refurbishing then attached again? Does anyone have experience with this and and what should I pay attention to? Are there any instructions on the internet? Thank you for your help.
Regards
John
Can the original leather covers of the early series I seats be removed from the seat frames and seat cushions without damaging and after the upholstery refurbishing then attached again? Does anyone have experience with this and and what should I pay attention to? Are there any instructions on the internet? Thank you for your help.
Regards
John
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#2 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Very difficult to do as the Vaumol leather hardens over time and will crack when you try to stretch it. Also the leather was trimmed after being attached to the frame so you have next to no way of holding/stretching it into place. Connolly have started producing Vaumol again so that is your best path. Expensive but worth doing if you want to get the original texture. More info here: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1384
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#3 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
We are just in the process of doing just this, and so far no problems. When I get a chance, I will put a photo or two up but as lockdown is back, I'll not be seeing the seats for a while.
Steve
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
Technical Adviser to a

S1 2+2 4.2
1966
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#4 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Hello Steve,
This would be lovely. I am very interested to see how the material and also the moquette material is fixed on the frames and what is best method to remove the moquette material without damaging it. Overall, the seat covers are very well preserved and still relatively flexible.
Best regards
John
This would be lovely. I am very interested to see how the material and also the moquette material is fixed on the frames and what is best method to remove the moquette material without damaging it. Overall, the seat covers are very well preserved and still relatively flexible.
Best regards
John
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#5 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Are you guys talking about the same type of seat....John..im assumeing yours are the bucket type...where as i think Steve is refering to the late seat with a base and seperate backreast.....please comfirm what you have....Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
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#6 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
The leather on my seats , and particularly the gear lever bit ,had gone hard . I tried the cheap baby oil from the supermarket . Repeated applications over a couple of months have transformed the condition - it`s now super soft and pliable - amazing and cost next to nothing . 

Mark
1968 series 1.5 roadster
1968 series 1.5 roadster
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#7 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
The gear lever gaiter on the later 4.2 cars was made of synthetic Ambla. Jaguar used Connolly Vaumol leather for the seats on all E-Type's.

- Vaumol was patented by Connolly in 1939
- The base colour and clear top coat were cellulose and sprayed on - it is not through dyed
- By the mid 1980's the process was changed to use part cellulose and part water based paints
- By the early '90's the paints were all water based
- Vaumol has not been produced since 1998, 'real' Vaumol not since 1986
- If you find any new old stock it is likely to be useless as the paint will crack on stretching as it does not store well
- Nothing can reproduce the smell, finish or feel of Vaumol leather
- Connolly restarted Vaumol production in 2017
If you are thinking of renovating a Connolly leather interior, or any leather interior in fact, start by ensuring the interior is thoroughly cleaned with glycerine soap (or use mild toilet soap, not caustic nor detergent soaps for routine wiping over). Use a small nail-brush to remove ingrained dirt. Avoid flooding and wipe off the residue. Whilst still damp, apply a coat of CeeBee hide food, which will restore the original suppleness and nourish the fibres. Allow this to be absorbed for 24 hours, after which any surplus should be wiped off and the result should be a nicely-polished surface. If the original colouring has worn away, new lacquer can be applied. This should be swabbed on evenly and sparingly using one or two coats. Unfortunately cracked or torn leather, caused by the cracking of the foam-rubber base, will have to be replaced. This can be avoided if you cover the foam with linen before stitching on the leather upholstery.
As modern leathers use a completely different finishing system consequently they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils. The majority of renovation creams marketed today will remain on the leather surface, and simply attract dirt and dust. Recommended treatment for modern leather appears to be Dr Leather wipes.

- Vaumol was patented by Connolly in 1939
- The base colour and clear top coat were cellulose and sprayed on - it is not through dyed
- By the mid 1980's the process was changed to use part cellulose and part water based paints
- By the early '90's the paints were all water based
- Vaumol has not been produced since 1998, 'real' Vaumol not since 1986
- If you find any new old stock it is likely to be useless as the paint will crack on stretching as it does not store well
- Nothing can reproduce the smell, finish or feel of Vaumol leather
- Connolly restarted Vaumol production in 2017
If you are thinking of renovating a Connolly leather interior, or any leather interior in fact, start by ensuring the interior is thoroughly cleaned with glycerine soap (or use mild toilet soap, not caustic nor detergent soaps for routine wiping over). Use a small nail-brush to remove ingrained dirt. Avoid flooding and wipe off the residue. Whilst still damp, apply a coat of CeeBee hide food, which will restore the original suppleness and nourish the fibres. Allow this to be absorbed for 24 hours, after which any surplus should be wiped off and the result should be a nicely-polished surface. If the original colouring has worn away, new lacquer can be applied. This should be swabbed on evenly and sparingly using one or two coats. Unfortunately cracked or torn leather, caused by the cracking of the foam-rubber base, will have to be replaced. This can be avoided if you cover the foam with linen before stitching on the leather upholstery.
As modern leathers use a completely different finishing system consequently they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils. The majority of renovation creams marketed today will remain on the leather surface, and simply attract dirt and dust. Recommended treatment for modern leather appears to be Dr Leather wipes.
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#8 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Hello,
Yes the early bucket seats.
Regards
John
Yes the early bucket seats.
Regards
John
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#9 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Hi John....there are videos on youtube..just google e type bucket seat refurb or re cover....Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
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#10 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Ooops .. Yes, the later base and backrest.
Steve
Technical Adviser to a
S1 2+2 4.2
1966
Technical Adviser to a

S1 2+2 4.2
1966
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#11 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Try furniture clinic
They have detailed tutorials on leather seat refurbishment
They are on u tube
Their products are also excellent
I recently did all my seats in my series 2 using their stuff and it all came out very nicely
Well worth watching the tutorials
Joe
They have detailed tutorials on leather seat refurbishment
They are on u tube
Their products are also excellent
I recently did all my seats in my series 2 using their stuff and it all came out very nicely
Well worth watching the tutorials
Joe
1969 series 2 2+2
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#12 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Hello,
many thanks. Unfortunately, I cannot find any information on how to remove the seat covers from the early bucket seats or what to look out for by dismantling the units. This would be very helpful to get an idea of what the internal structure of the seat cushion and backrest look like. We will see.
Best regards
John
many thanks. Unfortunately, I cannot find any information on how to remove the seat covers from the early bucket seats or what to look out for by dismantling the units. This would be very helpful to get an idea of what the internal structure of the seat cushion and backrest look like. We will see.
Best regards
John
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#13 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Hi John...as i mentioned befor but have a look here
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
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#14 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Hello,
Yes I have seen this video. However, BAS only shows as many details as necessary, which is understandable. I would like to see how the interior of an original seat cushion and backrest are constructed. I think that I will find a solution. Thank you.
Kind regards
John
Yes I have seen this video. However, BAS only shows as many details as necessary, which is understandable. I would like to see how the interior of an original seat cushion and backrest are constructed. I think that I will find a solution. Thank you.
Kind regards
John
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#15 Re: Refubrishing series I seats
Hi John....I assumed your seats are original.......so by dismantling them you will know exactly how they are constructed......it shouldnt be very difficult to then reassemble especially as your leather is already moulded into shape......Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica
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