Door shut mechanism adjustment

[ChrisC]

Folks,

1964 4.2 Series 1 FHC.

I am noticing recently that my Driver door is able to open very slightly.

By this I mean that the door shuts and fully secures as it should and is NOT opening onto its safety position but when the door is in the 'shut' position, it has the ability to spring back 3-4mm. Which whilst safely locked means the panel fit is not as it should be anymore. The Striker plate is at the furthest back position (i.e. there is no more adjustment to pull the door tighter closed).

I do notice that the toothed locking 'gear' (no idea what its called but the toothed wheel that rotates into the striker plate to keep the door shut) when locked has almost a whole tooth of rotational free play. In my mind that free play is what is probably allowing the door to open slightly.

The door lock itself seems to be a sealed unit and I am reluctant to drill out the rivets to take a look inside for wear because a replacement lock is darned expensive. Any suggestions?

As I say the striker plate has no more adjustment and I want my perfect panel fit back :)

[paulsco]

Hi Chris,

It might be counterintuitive, but sometimes adjusting the striker plate further out, has the effect of allowing the toothed wheel to turn a little further and 'click over' to the next position, pulling the door closer in.

Paul

[ChrisC]

An intriguing idea but I understand the concept...

[Mich7920]

He said "the striker plate has no more adjustment"
So it's not the solution for him I think.

[paulsco]

I think Chris means no more adjustment inwards.

[ChrisC]

I think Chris means no more adjustment inwards.

Confirmed - the striker will not move any further inwards towards the interior of the car.

[Mich7920]

My translater don't take further OUT...
Having said that, I have the same problem as Chris and don't see how that can bring the door any closer.

[politeperson]

Move the striker plate out to get the second click.

[ChrisC]

Well, I tried the counter intuitive idea and sadly for me, moving the striker plate outwards simply meant I made the locked door position worse. So for now, its back in the best position I can get and will have to put up with a very slightly (now around 2mm) protruding door which is a shame because it actually closes perfectly.

[paulsco]

Hi Chris,

I’m sorry to hear that my suggestion didn’t work for you.
You mention the movement on the toothed gear; I wonder if it is the spindle that it is rotating on, that is loose.

I found that there was movement here on mine and I too did not want to purchase a new one, so I put some weld on the back of it to stop any movement. It works fine now.





Paul

[ChrisC]

I can take a look at that too Paul - thanks... there has to be wear somewhere.

I cant imagine driving the car for a while, that's why I am playing with door gaps and replacing door rubbers etc. It is nice to have 2 doors that close under their own weight.

Looking at your pictures - your weld triggers a thought... I could drill out the top of the rivets, take a look inside to resolve whatever ails the mechanism then pop a small weld on the top of the rivets to hold it all together again.