Oil pressure, one more round

[DWW]

Thanks Steve, I am sure you are right

[No Quarter]

I've decided to keep my gauge and sender. And with a tee add a warning light sender, and use the Brake warning light, so it now has triple duty. I don't think I would notice lower gauge on time, but a big red light, probably

[caveman]

Best of both worlds for me:
Electric sender with separate red warning light (duplicate choke light) as well as ‘wet’ oil gauge replacing poor electric original.
Why compromise with something as important as oil/pressure or lack of

[mtnjag]

What pressure warning light sensor are you going to run?

A "I'm screwed" sender at 5-7# (very common OEM on vintage cars) that means your engine is toast when at speed?

Or a "I have a problem" sender at 20# or so, so you can pull over and save the engine?

I run a 20# on a Sprite I have.

Sender pressures are available in a variety of rates.

[No Quarter]

Moss and Martin Robey have a C23016 Oil Pressure Warning Light Switch. But can't see thread size or PSI it kicks in.

Is it that critical with PSI? Some friends many years ago took the oil out of a scrapped Corolla and put a brick on the throttle, expecting it to kill itself quickly. It ran for 20 minutes and then they had to stop because of noise complaints.

Regardless, please point me to where I can buy switch with thread like the gauge sensor and 10 or 20 PSI?

[mtnjag]

I believe Pegasus Racing is one place you can buy a variety of Sensor ratings. I think that's where I got mine.
Any of the Performance/Race suppliers of which there are many will have a variety of sensor ratings.

You don't want too low a pound rating as it can be so low , like 5-7#, that damage is already happening or will happen before you can shut down.
As I said that's not really a "warning" more of a "damage is occurring" light. Great!

You might check the poundage of the sender that the 3.8 uses that goes into the oil galley after the oil filter. It operated the brake light for start up and served dual purposes.
I don't know what the rating is but it may be pretty low and it was really a start-up or gen failure function I think. If low it's not the one you want.

I would go at least 20# as the light is not really for warning at idle, it's warning when you are driving. You don't want to be at 10# and 3000rpm.

[caveman]

An interesting article here if in doubt;
https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/h ... _oil_gauge

[malcolm]

Not sure I understand the reluctance to fix the guage? If you don't want the hassle of fitting a mechanical guage, just get a new sender. I've had a few. Only £93 from SNG Barratt. (3.8 or 4.2) Easy to fit.
I just went mechanical because they're more reliable.
I'm sure I'm just missing something

[No Quarter]

Maybe I'm missing something

I want the original gauge faces at almost any cost. My test tells me engine oil pressure is fine, and my soon to be warning light will give peace of mind. So I get it all

IMHO

[mtnjag]

You can have your Original Elec gauge face used in a conversion to a Mechanical gauge if that's what you want.
Or you can have your Orig Elec gauge Rebuilt so it's accurate.
No reason to live with a defective gauge.

[malcolm]

Almost certainly the sender, not the guage. So if you replace the sender, the guage face stays, it's just that it works now!