Headlight trims bolts

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:26 pm

Where can you buy longer headlight trim dome head chrome bolts from. A couple of mine need to be a bit longer as for some reason they will not locate

NickJ · Post by **NickJ** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:29 am

Tony. One tip I learnt from the excellent CMC seminars about re-fitting the chrome surrounds was to place it in the correct position and then slot in some masonary pins so that the surround was held correctly in place. Then one by one remove each pin and replace them with the screws, turning the latter a small amount initially so they bite. Move round the surround - but not consecutively - turning each screw a bit at a time so the surround beds in until they are tight. Unless one of the captive nuts has been moved out of line you will have no problem and shouldn't need longer screws.
Nick J Ludlow 62 FHC

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:30 pm

Tony - I used to buy mine from Perry's,sadly not in business now , so a suitable yacht chandlers - perhaps that extraordinary chap at the end of the marine lake - would probably have SS screws of the correct sort

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 8:31 am

Hi Nick, Christopher,

I am having no joy getting a couple of the bolts in and have tried different combinations. I have tried to get the bolts from local suppliers including the extraordinary unhelpful bloke at the end of the Marine lake. You can buy a dome head bolt or a countersunk bolt but not one with both. I am sure they exist. Does anybody know what size and thread (UNC?) the bolts are or should be as it would help when searching the Internet.

Thanks for the advice

Tony

APersoons · Post by **APersoons** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:54 am

Hi Tony,

From what I remember, the thread is much finer than UNC, looked more like UNF to me.

Try Anglo Parts, they have them listed in their catalogue but it doesn't say long or short (parts 16 and 17): https://www.angloparts.com/en/catalogues/group/2774

Best to give them a call, they've just finished restoring an early car and will be happy to help.

Axel

tim wood · Post by **tim wood** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:08 am

I asked the same question some time ago and had feedback that these were 8-32 unc.

Proved to be correct. I made sure that teh thread were cleaned out with tap before using the new screws.

Tim

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 12:53 pm

Thanks for all the advice and I am chasing down the options. So far the only place for the longer 8-32unc stainless, raised head, countersunk, slotted bolt is in New Zealand with a very high delivery cost.
I am sure you must able to get them in the UK but I have not found them yet.

44DHR · Post by **44DHR** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 12:55 pm

Depending on how often you plan on removing the headlight covers - I like to be able to remove any water or specks to keep the bowls perfectly clean - you could consider converting over to stainless steel metric screws.

The captive nuts are small bars made of Mazac (?) or some form of rubbish alloy which I ditched in favour of some threaded stainless steel bar. By tapping a length of bar stock and then cutting this threaded bar into the required width, these can be mounted into the captive nut cages. I'm pretty sure I used M4 threads and this enabled me to grind points onto my stainless steel countersunk screws of various required lengths to stab into the new captive nuts. Job done !!!

May be of help.

regards,

Dave
S1 4.2 FHC

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:40 pm

Dave,

I agree that I need to remove the covers often as I have given up ever getting them to be fully water proof. It really annoys me having water marks inside the pods. This is why I want the longer bolts to reduce the hassle of getting the existing bolts to locate.

44DHR · Post by **44DHR** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 2:05 pm

Tony,

That is precisely the point. You will find that your original captive nuts being made of cheese will soon give up the ghost being repeatedly used.

By using stainless steel they last forever and you can get various lengths of screws, including using longer ones as pilot locating screws which when screwed up tight are replaced in turn with screws cut to exactly match the finished distance required.

regards,

Dave
S1 4.2 FHC

APersoons · Post by **APersoons** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 4:28 pm

Looks like this place in the US has some, but no idea on shipping:

http://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws ... .aspx?nv=l

http://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws ... .aspx?nv=l

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 4:52 pm

Unfortunately they do not ship outside the USA, but thanks for the lead

Tony

APersoons · Post by **APersoons** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:18 pm

Just out of curiosity.

I read somewhere that the 3.8 had slotted heads and the 4.2 philips heads, is this correct or is there more to it?

adam · Post by **adam** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:35 pm

Hi try dave middleton stainless he sells 8/unc raised countrersunk screws slotted or pozi drive 1 1/4 long hope this helps
Adam

tim wood · Post by **tim wood** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:25 pm

Now I'm thinking of removing my trims and getting the scoops powder coated as that will give a lovely finish. Then I can fit new stainless screws.

Sometimes I think " why did I read that thread"

Tim

Post by **Heuer** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:00 pm

APersoons wrote:Just out of curiosity.

I read somewhere that the 3.8 had slotted heads and the 4.2 philips heads, is this correct or is there more to it?

The very very early cars had slotted heads - one of the most recognisable faults with the restoration of 9600 Hp

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:08 pm

APersoons wrote:Hi Tony,

From what I remember, the thread is much finer than UNC, looked more like UNF to me.

Try Anglo Parts, they have them listed in their catalogue but it doesn't say long or short (parts 16 and 17): https://www.angloparts.com/en/catalogues/group/2774

Best to give them a call, they've just finished restoring an early car and will be happy to help.

Axel

Axel,

They are UNC I bought a tap at Stoneleigh and also the screws in stainless as well.
Number 10 UNC seems to ring a bell somewhere.

Dave

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:18 pm

Well done Adam it seems Dave Middleton has them in. I am assuming I need Number 8 screw not number 10 as Axel suggests?.

Now are they Unc or Unf

Thanks to everybody for the help.

APersoons · Post by **APersoons** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:37 pm

Tony,

I don't think it was me who suggested the number 10

I've uploaded two photo's of the ones that I had fitted to my 65, but quite a large number of them wouldn't tighten anymore after several removals for cleaning.
Probably due to the poor mazac threads, although even these stainless screws had their thread damaged without over-tightening, makes you wonder what they mix in with chinese "stainless steel".

Looking at them closer, it looks more UNC than UNF to me too

,

here's the link to the pictures: https://plus.google.com/photos/10140127 ... 1407514865

Axel

adam · Post by **adam** » Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:47 pm

Hi no8 unc
Adam

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