Front Frames to washer or not to washer

[andrewh]

Am I imagining it or is there a thread out there which details where the washers should go when building up the front frames to the picture frame and onto the bulkhead?

[Alty Ian]

Hi Andrew
This has been discussed a few times, my take on it is as follows;
1. No washers on bulkhead engine bay side,... but make sure original or repro shouldered bolts are used, also when tightening the bolts, try and keep the engine side bolt head static and turn the nyloc underneath (with washers). Obvioulsy there are some into captive nuts that you cannot avoid turning but be very careful when the final turns are done not to damage paint.
2. On the picture frame, you pretty much need washers on both sides to make sure the loads are spread evenly and you dont really see most of them anyway.

Hope my tuppence worth helps.

Ian

[andrewh]

Thanks Ian. I am planning on copying the layout on my 3.8. Biggest issue seems to be that the shouldered bolts are not shouldered enough so the hex cuts into paint. I thought there was a schematic somewhere though.

[PeterCrespin]

I think the paint being thicker than standard is more likely than the shoulders being too thin.

[288gto]

As Peter says, with modern hard 2k lacquer and our increasing desire to have all body colour parts finished to a high gloss standard, there is an increased chance of chipping the lacquer. I know some of the dent repair specialists warm the area up with a heat gun to reduce the chance of the paint cracking, as do the companies that roll arches to accommodate wider wheels.

Disclaimer. This is merely my own personal observation and I'm happy for someone else to try it on their car before I do mine.


Simon

[andrewh]

I suspect it is the amount of paint on the frames that is the problem yes. Perhaps the observation that the shoulder under the hex is not deep enough is a reflection of the need of a deeper shoulder to accommodate the paint depth. Ah well.

[288gto]

Given that it is undoubtedly the turning motion of the bolt head against the paint that damages it, another approach I considered was to use specially made washers. I thought about getting thin washers the same outer dimension as the shoulder on the bolts and then drilling them out to fit the diameter of the bolt. This would have the same clamping area but would once compressed, give the appearance of no washer. Hopefully the special washer would stay still while the bolt head rotated. I might drill some holes in flat plates and ask the bodyshop to paint and lacquer them as an experiment.
My concern at the moment is being reluctant to tighten properly some very important bolts merely for fear of damaging the paint.

Is my OCD getting the better of me?




And with the special washer on...




I know the bolt is stainless and must not be used on the frames just incase someone spots it. It is just to see if the washer idea works.


Simon

[richard btype]

OCD has gotten the better of you!

(good idea non the less)

are the washers in stainless or steel? - you don't want the drilled hole to start rusting..

[288gto]

Cheers Richard.

Stainless marine grade. Should I be considering titanium?


Simon