Series 2 clutch

Talk about the E-Type Series 2

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JC
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#1 Series 2 clutch

Post by JC » Mon Jan 13, 2020 11:47 pm

I've taken the plunge to replace the clutch on my SII, after putting up with grating for some time and explored other possible causes of the problem!!

I'm not at the engine out stage (yet!!) but already have a few queries!!!!! Any advice will be gratefully received!!

1. I've got the bonnet off - it is standing on its (well used) front bumpers leaning against the wall - see image at end of post. Is there a preferred way of temporarily storing a bonnet - flat/upright etc?

2. Should I disconnect the manifold at its top or bottom?

3. I've read that the back of the car needs be jacked up to remove engine/gearbox - is this sensible advice? If so, by how much?

4. I'm guessing that the engine removal will be easier with the radiator removed?

Cheers, JC
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mgcjag
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#2 Re: Series 2 clutch

Post by mgcjag » Tue Jan 14, 2020 8:45 am

Hi JC its usual to stand the bonnet the other way on some old carpet its more stable... are you taking it out the top or bottom.....have a look below not my photo..Steve
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Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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politeperson
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#3 Re: Series 2 clutch

Post by politeperson » Tue Jan 14, 2020 7:07 pm

JC,

I have done 2 e type clutches in the the last 2 weeks! I must be mad.

Your questions!

1. I've got the bonnet off - it is standing on its (well used) front bumpers leaning against the wall - see image at end of post. Is there a preferred way of temporarily storing a bonnet - flat/upright etc?

Preferably, like Steve says, the other way up, but if it is stable I would leave it alone.

2. Should I disconnect the manifold at its top or bottom?

Take off both manifolds- intake and exhaust. Reach right in from underneath with a half inch spanner, like birthing a cow for the intake with the carbs still attached. One manifold stud on the exhaust can be a pain on the bottom row. You will probably have to split the exhaust at the middle box. Remove it completely from the car.

3. I've read that the back of the car needs be jacked up to remove engine/gearbox - is this sensible advice? If so, by how much?

Depends what lifting gear you have. Steve has the right idea it you are using an engine hoist.

4. I'm guessing that the engine removal will be easier with the radiator removed?

I have just done both with the radiators in place.

The really important thing is to check the prop and the clutch release is spot on before you put it all back together.

The prop may need new uj's and balancing.

If the flywheel has been shaved more than 3mm, the whole lot wont work. The clutch will not release.

You must check there is sufficient travel left to operate the clutch when the release bearing comes into contact with the pressure plate. Otherwise the whole lot will have to come out again. You can only check this after the gearbox has been bolted back onto the engine. A worn flywheel will affect this measurement.
James

L.J.K. Setright was right.
"You just cant beat a good E-type"

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MarkRado
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#4 Re: Series 2 clutch

Post by MarkRado » Wed Jan 15, 2020 5:16 am

Hi James,
my clutch is due for replacement as well - a pity you are so far away :bigrin:
What is the min flywheel thickness? I guess that my car had at least 2 new clutches in the past maybe with scimmed flywheel, so I have to be careful,
thank you
Mark
1963 OTS 880436

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mgcjag
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#5 Re: Series 2 clutch

Post by mgcjag » Wed Jan 15, 2020 8:51 am

Also ensure you fit the correct release bearing there are several different types..the photo shows just 2 types the one on the left has well worn carbon but note the different body shape....Steve
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1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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politeperson
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#6 Re: Series 2 clutch

Post by politeperson » Wed Jan 15, 2020 10:51 am

Hello Mark,

I dont know.

The standard one that was 36.5mm thick worked. The standard one that was 33mm didnt. That was with a new bearing C235752.

The other flywheel I had was a lightweight Fidenza with 9.5 inch finger spring clutch. I checked that and the whole clutch assembly-even after 10,000 enthusiastic-miles had no measurable wear in anything, (Even with my 2.88:1 diff). So I refitted it.

As Steve said, the design of the thrust bearing will have a lot to do with the release clearance to the bellhousing.

By the way, the S2 flywheel should have dowel positions for both types of clutch pressure plate, so the dowels can be swapped easily.

James
James

L.J.K. Setright was right.
"You just cant beat a good E-type"

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#7 Re: Series 2 clutch

Post by mgcjag » Wed Jan 15, 2020 2:50 pm

Just beware of release bearing part number.....i have seen both of the ones in my photo above sold under the same part number as James quoted above......so ensure a replacement is the shape you need and do not just rely on the part number you order....Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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