Broken clock from a 1969 series 2 E-type

Talk about the E-Type Series 2
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Monkeyfinger
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#21 Re: Broken clock from a 1969 series 2 E-type

Post by Monkeyfinger » Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:45 am

On the topic of these clocks, I am trying to remove the bezel to repaint, clean the glass, and add new seal. Not sure how to remove the adjuster knob. Does it screw onto the shaft or push fit, or is there another way? Anyhow, it has to come off to remove the bezel.
Richard
- 1969 Series 2 OTS

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Herzeg
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#22 Re: Broken clock from a 1969 series 2 E-type

Post by Herzeg » Sun Mar 11, 2018 9:09 pm

[/quote]

That depends on how much power the clock uses. Have you measured how much current the clock draws? I don't know how Smiths designed the 12 volt clock but if the clock uses 1mA of current it will take approximately 3.5 years to half discharge a typical E type battery. Clearly the battery will self discharge in a faster time so the clock isn't an issue. If the clock draws 10mA then you're looking at more like 4 months to half discharge a battery but that would be a very poor design by Smiths. If you've got an alternator, that will draw a few mA as well. All in all, unless you've fitted any modern electronics like a radio etc. I'd expect the self discharge of the battery to be comparable to the power used by the clock and alternator andso powering the clock independently isn't going to help with those winter starts.
[/quote]

Hi John

Good point, I will measure the current drain, I also will have to check the drain of the hidden security devices (I forgot about those). I have no radio connected or other add-ons. What puzzled me was your comment on the alternator. How can a stationary alternator drain current?

John
1969 S2 OTS

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johnetype
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#23 Re: Broken clock from a 1969 series 2 E-type

Post by johnetype » Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:57 pm

The B+ terminal of the alternator is always connected to the battery even if the regulator unit has been isolated by the alternator relay and behind the B+ terminal are the rectifier diodes which have a small reverse current leakage. That leakage may amount to a few mA.

I'm sure that any active "security devices" will use more current than the clock.
John

1969 Series 2 FHC

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johnetype
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#24 Re: Broken clock from a 1969 series 2 E-type

Post by johnetype » Tue Mar 13, 2018 12:01 am

Monkeyfinger wrote:
Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:45 am
On the topic of these clocks, I am trying to remove the bezel to repaint, clean the glass, and add new seal. Not sure how to remove the adjuster knob. Does it screw onto the shaft or push fit, or is there another way? Anyhow, it has to come off to remove the bezel.
The knob screws on with a normal handed thread. If you pull out the adjuster knob you'll find a small flat on the shaft behind it for you to grip with pliers whilst unscrewing the knob.
John

1969 Series 2 FHC

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Monkeyfinger
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#25 Re: Broken clock from a 1969 series 2 E-type

Post by Monkeyfinger » Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:57 am

Thanks John- that's as I expected. Clearly the knob on mine is on very tight. I will try a little more force.

Richard
Richard
- 1969 Series 2 OTS

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Steve Marshall
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#26 Re: Broken clock from a 1969 series 2 E-type

Post by Steve Marshall » Sun Jun 10, 2018 11:38 am

Can you rig up a caravan style solar battery trickle-charger to solve both problems?

The clock power drain will be absolutely miniscule, the internal drain in the battery probably dominates.

Steve
Nortonian mechanics

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