distributor from 69 non vacuum distributor to 81 XJ 6 4.2 Engine

[thexkeprocess]

quick question. 69 e type series 2 4.2 engine to 81 xj6 4.2 engine.

All electronics removed, used just the block.

I know that many have done the blown e type engine to XJ 6 engine conversion. Mine is pretty well done.

I am currently wiring the engine up and was planning to use my old distributor in the 81 engine block.

It seems that the my old distributor is slightly longer than the XJ 6 unit. I was lead to believe based on the multitude of information found on this subject, that the distributor swap was done all the time.

My e type distributor is about 1/4" long. I've put a spacer (metal o ring to take up the slack where the securing bolt is on the block to prevent it from shimming out and tightened the bracket from preventing it from moving around and move the timing.

Seems ok but thought it odd to see that it is about 1/4 " longer.

Any issues or should I be doing something else.

Mark

[christopher storey]

That sounds very strange . All XK distributors that I have seen were always fully interchangeable and the drive shafts were identical in length . Can you see the identifying numbers on your old one, because it sounds to me as though it has come from a non-Jaguar application ?

PS I have never seen a non-vacuum type on an XK. All non- North America applications were vacuum advance, and the emission control type, or some of them , had ignition retard

[mark10337]

On Series 2 eTypes the 3 types of distributor used were
Lucas 22D6 41060A Distributor (8:1 and 9:1). This used advance. (Not USA and Canada)
Lucas 22D6 41207A Distributor (9:1). No vacuum unit USA and Canada from SWB 7R.7001 to 7R.7973, LWB 7R.35001 to 7R.38579
Lucas 22D6 41322A Distributor (Ex/Em) Emissions control revision with retard. From SWB 7R.7974, LWB 7R.38580

The second one, 22D6 41207A had no vacuum unit.

[thexkeprocess]

Thanks for the replies

Although the engine is now running and to my good luck, it runs very well, I wanted to add that the main difference is in the engine blocks that creates this 1/4 in gap between the holding bracket and the block.

In the 69 block,around the opening where the distributor sits, there is a groove machined in around the hole to accommodate a thick gasket, while in the 81 block that i’ve used, there is no groove so the distributor clamp sits higher leaving about 1/4 in gap. I’ve removed the thick gasket on my distributor and the gap was reduced to about 1/8 in.

Based on responses this seems odd, unless i need to get a different distributor clamp or ?

I agree the distributor fits fine but does not fit flush with the block. I’ve added a spacer where the clamp bolts down onto the block and the distributor seems to be holding in place.

Mark

[johnetype]

Is there a reason why you're not keeping the '81 distributor with the '81 block and not using it?

[thexkeprocess]

I wasn’t sure it was working, I know its electronic and no way to test, I went to start the engine so I went with my old distributor knowing that it worked, eliminating a variable. I may go to the 81 dist. Once I fully confident that everything is running as it should.

Anyone installed the electronic dist from an later engine, anything I need to know, how is it wired up?

Mark

[johnetype]

I believe there are two versions of the electronic distributor, one with ballast resistors and one without. If you have the version without additional ballast resistors then wiring up is easy.

The lead attached to the distributor plugs into the electronic ignition unit and the electronic ignition unit has two wires coming from it, a white and a white black. Remove the existing white black from the coil and connect the white black from the electronic ignition unit in its place. The white lead from the electronic ignition unit plugs onto the coil along with the existing white lead. Make certain the electronic ignition unit is bolted to the chassis or engine so it is earthed.

The engine will now start and run although you'll need an ignition timing light to set the timing. Whilst the engine will run fine, on a Series 2 you may find the rev counter no longer works. To solve this, disconnect the white wire from the electronic ignition unit that you connected directly to the coil and connect it to an ignition switched feed (rhs of fuse 7). The rev counter should now work as before.