Cost of respray

[mgcjag]

One thing to think about if you are preping yourself (prime coat) and then looking for a spray shop to do the final coats etc is that many primers are porous and absorb moisture......so you could be taking a damp car in to be resprayed......this is why any good shop would want to do the complete job.......micro blisters are a sure sign that topcoat has been applied to a damp surface.......im not talking about damp you could see/feel but moisture absorbed by filler/primer.........bring back the 70s.....would paint the car over the weekend with a brush

[1954Etype]

Hi Paul, honestly no offence taken!

[mgcjag]

Where is the original poster.........still lots of interest from every one else

[paulsco]

Thanks for the warning Steve,

Yes I am aware of the moisture problems with primer.
I have been using Jotun Penguard HB which is a high build waterproof marine primer

http://www.smlprotectivecoatings.co.uk/ ... enguard-hb

It is the same product as Rusbuster custom epoxy 421only cheaper.

http://www.rust.co.uk/rust-proofing-pri ... 21/p501025#

A 2k non iso primer that sands well, but takes ages to dry.

Paul

[angelw]

Hello All,
One of the most, if not the most important component of spray painting is air quality and dryness. No amount of quality material or painting skill will improve the quality of the air delivering the paint to the panel.

Typically, most home, or amateur spray painting set ups include a simple water filter/regulator system and for the most part is inadequate. Restoration businesses in it for the long haul can’t afford paint failures; even after many years. Unless neglect by the owner is obvious, I would make good any failure of paint completed ten and more years previously.

One of the most prevalent destroyers of an otherwise good paint job is a condition called humidity blistering, caused by moisture trapped in the paint. It presents as small blisters (around 1mm in diameter) and appear/disappear with the change in temperature. In extreme cases and after many cycles of expansion/contraction, the circumference of the blister fatigues to the point where the small blister of paint falls away exposing underlying layers. This condition normally takes a considerable time to present.

My refinishing insurance is a very good air drying and conditioning system. The system that was already in place in the workshop when I took it over used one of the better quality water filter/regulators referred to earlier. This was initially left in place, with the better system built onto it. After the air exits the water filter/regulators (tantamount to the air many home spray systems deliver straight to the spray gun)

1. its run 15 metres, on a downward slope to a vertical pipe that doubles as a drain and riser to a pipe that returns along the same 15 metres, also on a downward slope, to where a refrigerated air dryer is positioned. Another drain is positioned here just before the refrigerated dryer.

2. the air passes through a water and particle filter that protects the refrigerated dryer.

3. the air exiting the air dryer passes through another water/oil filter and then through a small particle filter to exit as high quality breathable air. The system has been in place for quite a time now and no moisture has made it past the air dryer (no water collected by the water/oil filter after the dryer).

The purpose of the 30 metre run of air line mentioned in point 1 above is to allow the air to cool after leaving the compressor and before entering the refrigerated air dryer. The following picture shows the amount of water drained off over a one day operation from the cooling pipes before the air dryer. This is the amount of water that would make it to the paint surface if only the simple water filter/regulator system were used.



So my advice to those contemplating doing the priming and perhaps the top coats, unless you’re prepared for the considerable expense of achieving good quality dry air for a one off job, put that investment towards having a shop capable of quality work carry out the paint application.

Regards,

Bill

[MarkRado]

Bill,
you're definitely right. Nothing gained with doing the priming yourself and having an expensive paintjob on top of that - except for all the risk that comes with it.
Preparing the car (dismantling, taking back to bare metal, degreasing) in consultation with the paintshop as well as exactly telling them what kind of work and quality you expect (and personally check regularly) is all you can do for a first class result.

[baldyz1]

I have spent time repainting ancillary items to a high standard and this tells me that spraying a whole car as an amateur and expecting a good result is a stretch. There are so many possibilities in reaction between products and the environment must be just right.

Admittedly if the paint goes on well you can work it to some extent afterwards but that equally can lead to polishing through the top coat and having to start again.

Around 11K for my respray but this is from bare metal. Underside, then inside then topside. Frames, doors, bonnet etc all sprayed off the car. The car will be show quality.

Find a good painter and have them do the primer and top I would say. If you are going to do it yourself then see if you can rent a booth.

[yev]

I have my s2 2+2 going in for bare metal work (not inside) in march. full works including stripping down and glass out and all going back together - £6k.
guys will do a good job, I know. they painted my MGA last year and done great job.
I am also booking my 911 with them to remedy frankly amateur and awful job this guy done on it last year.http://www.roadrashpaintwork.com .
and after 911 is finished they will take many many layers of paint from my SL and make it look good again.
so you don't need to spend too much money to get good job done, just find correct person to do it!

[Barry]

Angus is correct when he mentions a figure of £15k to paint a car including preparation. That matches the quotes I got before I had my S1 FHC painted. I made a note of the best quality paint work on the restored cars, and NFC were producing the best quality finish at the time. Eagle were too, but will only paint cars they have sold. Preparation is the key followed by spray technique and rubbing down between coats. It is a real art and there is no short cut way. So, anyone talking about a grand for materials and another grand to spray the car is missing the point.....or prepared to put up with orange peel sprayed with a stirrup pump!

[Jeremy]

Angus is dead right. Personally I was glad that I found TT to do mine. I learned from them why a top notch job cannot be cheap.

[EtypeMoneyPit]

Yes agreed a top notch job cannot be cheap.

However paying top dollar does not guarantee a top notch job. I learned this from IDL UK.

[Barry]

It depends who does it, and how consistent they are with the results.....

[duds37]

Hi around 10k for paint ouch!.So this may be heracy but I spent a while rebuilding Vw buses and now looking for an e-type project.what about a ratty s2 fhc,totally sunbleached rusty then waxed...too much? Would i be pushing the envelope too far...