Reverse Gear
#1 Reverse Gear
I am having difficulty engaging reverse gear in my Series 2. As you know you push the lever hard left and down. The gearlever doesn't want to go the extra distance to left. It is not the clutch as all other gears engage no problem. After many attempts pushing the gearlever left, it suddenly frees and and I can then engage reverse. It one of those situations where I am reluctant to take the car out in case I can't get reverse. Is it a relatively simple solution with selector forks or something more sinister? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Andy '69 Series 2 2 plus 2
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#2 Re: Reverse Gear
Are you doing this with the engine running or off, and does it make any difference?
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#3 Re: Reverse Gear
Also don't forget there is no synchro on reverse so far as I know so if the cogs stop not lined up it won't go in. Usual trick is to select first or second first before trying reverse again. Just getting another gear usually moves the box innards just that little bit. If that does not work then hmmmm...
Julian the E-type man
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
1962 FHC
1966 MGB....fab little car too
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#4 Re: Reverse Gear
I‘m aware that oil should not make a difference of go or no-go, but changing the oil in my S2 Box did make a big difference in feel and in real shifting. RedLine MT90 Gearoil other products might just be as good, my only comparison is this against old smelly gook. When was your last oil change in the gearbox.
Martin
Martin
Martin Scherz
Late S2 1970 OTS US LHD
Late S2 1970 OTS US LHD
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#5 Re: Reverse Gear
Andy Wrote:
The extreme left movement of the Gear Lever to be able to select Reverse is resisted by a Spring Loaded Plunger, assembled cross ways in the Reverse Gear Selector Rod. In addition, there is a Spring Loaded Indent Ball that engages in an annular groove in the OD of the Spring Loaded Plunger; adjustment of the indent ball and spring is via a bolt held in position by a lock-nut. Either, or both the aforementioned spring loaded devices can be causing your problem.
Adjustment of the Spring Loaded Indent Ball can be carried out with the Gearbox Top Cover in place, but access to the Spring Loaded Plunger will require the Top Cover to be removed; fortunately, removal of the Top Cover is achievable with the Gearbox in situ. Remove the Centre Console and Gearbox Tunnel Cover will give you access to the Gearbox Top Cover. Neutral Gear must be selected to remove and replace the Top Cover and care should be taken to clean the surfaces of the Gearbox Tunnel above the level of the Gearbox Top Cover to ensure foreign material doesn't contaminate the internals of the Gearbox.
If the Gear Lever is free to move in all other gear selection area, only difficult to move to the extreme left to select Reverse Gear and once there, Reverse can be selected normally, then the two spring loaded devices mentioned earlier are the only things that can influence the left movement to select Reverse Gear. Stripping, cleaning there parts and readjusting the Spring Loaded Indent Ball should rectify the problem.
Regards,
Bill
Hello Andy,I am having difficulty engaging reverse gear in my Series 2. As you know you push the lever hard left and down. The gearlever doesn't want to go the extra distance to left. It is not the clutch as all other gears engage no problem. After many attempts pushing the gearlever left, it suddenly frees and and I can then engage reverse. It one of those situations where I am reluctant to take the car out in case I can't get reverse. Is it a relatively simple solution with selector forks or something more sinister? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
The extreme left movement of the Gear Lever to be able to select Reverse is resisted by a Spring Loaded Plunger, assembled cross ways in the Reverse Gear Selector Rod. In addition, there is a Spring Loaded Indent Ball that engages in an annular groove in the OD of the Spring Loaded Plunger; adjustment of the indent ball and spring is via a bolt held in position by a lock-nut. Either, or both the aforementioned spring loaded devices can be causing your problem.
Adjustment of the Spring Loaded Indent Ball can be carried out with the Gearbox Top Cover in place, but access to the Spring Loaded Plunger will require the Top Cover to be removed; fortunately, removal of the Top Cover is achievable with the Gearbox in situ. Remove the Centre Console and Gearbox Tunnel Cover will give you access to the Gearbox Top Cover. Neutral Gear must be selected to remove and replace the Top Cover and care should be taken to clean the surfaces of the Gearbox Tunnel above the level of the Gearbox Top Cover to ensure foreign material doesn't contaminate the internals of the Gearbox.
If the Gear Lever is free to move in all other gear selection area, only difficult to move to the extreme left to select Reverse Gear and once there, Reverse can be selected normally, then the two spring loaded devices mentioned earlier are the only things that can influence the left movement to select Reverse Gear. Stripping, cleaning there parts and readjusting the Spring Loaded Indent Ball should rectify the problem.
Regards,
Bill
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#6 Re: Reverse Gear
Thanks for your replies, and to Bill for a detailed analysis. To answer other points, it makes no difference running or not. With regard oil, I changed it last year to EP90 on the advise of Ken Jenkins. I have read mixed reviews on MT oil, both for and against. The general feeling was, being an old gearbox it needs
Old school oil, but what do I know!
Old school oil, but what do I know!
Andy '69 Series 2 2 plus 2
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#8 Re: Reverse Gear
I have been where you are now.
EP90 is the correct oil for your box IMHPO, the thin Redline stuff made me lose my synchros instantly. They came back with the thicker EP90.
Whip out the seats, remove the centre console, select neutral, take off the gearbox cover, remove the gearbox top and you will see how the reverse lockout adjustment works, I bet that is your problem. You might need a new gearbox top gasket to put it all back together.
When I last did this, I also replaced the selector rod "o" rings, as mine had gone hard, causing a leak from the top.
EP90 is the correct oil for your box IMHPO, the thin Redline stuff made me lose my synchros instantly. They came back with the thicker EP90.
Whip out the seats, remove the centre console, select neutral, take off the gearbox cover, remove the gearbox top and you will see how the reverse lockout adjustment works, I bet that is your problem. You might need a new gearbox top gasket to put it all back together.
When I last did this, I also replaced the selector rod "o" rings, as mine had gone hard, causing a leak from the top.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#9 Re: Reverse Gear
I agree with Bill's detailed analysis, however from my experience of the same issue you'll only need to go as far as exposing the top of the gearbox rather than removing the gearbox cover itself as adjusting/greasing the plunger at the base of the gearlever/rear of the gearbox reverse selector rod will allow reverse to be engaged. Mine had become equally difficult due to a long period of non use but soon freed up on greasing/adjustment. You may find that now you have the understanding as to what the issue is and with a warm gearbox you can engage reverse with confidence several times to free it up without having to undo anything.
I wouldn't advise setting it too slack or it becomes very easy to try and change down from third to second and find your trying to get into reverse.
There's endless discussion on here over gearbox oil. EP90 for the Moss gearbox yes, but for the 4 synchro box which I believe you have I thought even Jaguar recommended 20/50 engine oil but a misprint in the handbook perpetuated the EP90 myth. Whatever the truth, the consensus is that Redline MT90 is the best and that's my experience too.
I wouldn't advise setting it too slack or it becomes very easy to try and change down from third to second and find your trying to get into reverse.
There's endless discussion on here over gearbox oil. EP90 for the Moss gearbox yes, but for the 4 synchro box which I believe you have I thought even Jaguar recommended 20/50 engine oil but a misprint in the handbook perpetuated the EP90 myth. Whatever the truth, the consensus is that Redline MT90 is the best and that's my experience too.
John
1969 Series 2 FHC
1969 Series 2 FHC
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#10 Re: Reverse Gear
Thanks for all replies, as usual this forum is great for prompt and knowledgable responses. Since posting the thread my gearbox has reverted back to what it was last year i.e. Notchy but selectable (if that is a proper word!), so my view is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Probably a few run outs has freed up whatever was sticking. At least I know what the cure is for next time. ( And no doubt there will be a next time)
Andy '69 Series 2 2 plus 2
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