Distributor problem

Talk about the E-Type Series 2

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spotdoc67
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#1 Distributor problem

Post by spotdoc67 » Sun May 27, 2018 7:36 pm

Car broke down this morning
No spark
I think I've tracked it down to the distributor. Its a CSI electronic ignition unit and coolant has been leaking onto it from a water pipe above it.
I've cleaned it up a bit and dried off the cap and leads and the car will start and run but only intermittently.
Will I need a new dizzy or is it possible to dismantle the CSI unit and get all the congealed coolant off it.
Thanks for any advice

Tom

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mgcjag
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#2 Re: Distributor problem

Post by mgcjag » Mon May 28, 2018 8:06 am

Hi Tom...not familiar with that electronic unit but assume its sealed with no electronics exposed....reroveing and cleaning should be done if its a sticky mess in there.... as this will affect the base plate/springs etc... Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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spotdoc67
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#3 Re: Distributor problem

Post by spotdoc67 » Mon May 28, 2018 11:06 am

thanks
will remove this afternoon
not had the dizzy out before
is it best to jack the car up at the front to get to the base plate bolt?

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mgcjag
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#4 Re: Distributor problem

Post by mgcjag » Mon May 28, 2018 11:45 am

You should not need to jack the car up....Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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spotdoc67
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#5 Re: Distributor problem

Post by spotdoc67 » Mon May 28, 2018 11:52 am

I can see a pinch bolt easily but can't see a bolt connecting the base plate to the block
is it easily accessible??

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mgcjag
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#6 Re: Distributor problem

Post by mgcjag » Mon May 28, 2018 5:32 pm

Yes there is a bolt holding the plate..you can get to it fairly easy....bit late now..you probably already done it.. Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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spotdoc67
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#7 Re: Distributor problem

Post by spotdoc67 » Tue May 29, 2018 6:52 am

Yes
Managed to remove it and clean it up a bit
Got the car running but then it stalled and is not restarting
I think I may need a new distributor
Any recommendations??

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mgcjag
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#8 Re: Distributor problem

Post by mgcjag » Tue May 29, 2018 7:55 am

Hi..please try to put your name and car model in the signature area..thanks....re dizzy...have a look at the similar topics that are listed below.....your oprions...original,.....or get your rebuilt...can it have a new unit fitted...or 123, a couple of options...down to choice really...are you sure its the dizzy....what about the cap...and rotor arm..the only one to have is a red one from the Distributor Doctor...treat all others with caution. Steve
Steve
1969 S2 2+2 & Building a C type replica

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mark10337
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#9 Re: Distributor problem

Post by mark10337 » Tue May 29, 2018 10:55 am

I had a similar issue. Cleaning out and an overhaul of the distributor fixed all. The weights were gunked up. The Distributor Doctor is the place to get a thorough professional overhaul. If it's not producing any spark at all, check the cabling to the coil. The csi ignition unit may also have moved during the cleaning. make sure it is correctly distanced to the centre piece.
-Mark

1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'

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jagwit
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#10 Re: Distributor problem

Post by jagwit » Wed May 30, 2018 9:40 am

spotdoc67 wrote:
Tue May 29, 2018 6:52 am
I think I may need a new distributor
Any recommendations??
123 Bluetooth distributor
Best Regards
Philip
71 E-type V12 Coupe,
80 XJS (EFI by Megasquirt & EDIS-6 + 5sp manual overdrive)
73 Jensen Interceptor
74 Interceptor (EFI by Megasquirt + overdrive 4sp auto)

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AshM
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#11 Re: Distributor problem

Post by AshM » Wed May 30, 2018 7:00 pm

Gets my vote too - although I have the version that has to be adjusted manually.

Respecting that there are many experiences and views on the 123 I can only go by my experience.

Fitted it on factory-set curve, car started instantly. Have done 1,000 miles without any problems at all. Nothing done to Tacho, all fine too. Definitely starts better; especially when hot.

But, as I say, respecting others will have other experiences and views.

Good luck with whatever you decide - let us know.

cheers
Ash
Series 2 FHC 1970
1R 20607

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jagwit
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#12 Re: Distributor problem

Post by jagwit » Wed May 30, 2018 7:27 pm

AshM wrote:
Wed May 30, 2018 7:00 pm
Fitted it on factory-set curve, car started instantly. Have done 1,000 miles without any problems at all.
Have you played around with the curves Ash, trying the others? Reason I'm asking is that at one point I had that S1 engine so "Nervous"/Racy/chomping-at-the-bit that I knew the owner would not be happy. It was TOO responsive - if you can believe that.

I found myself having to do what manufacturers do - detune the car, to have a more docile character. But for that owner it was the right thing to do.
Best Regards
Philip
71 E-type V12 Coupe,
80 XJS (EFI by Megasquirt & EDIS-6 + 5sp manual overdrive)
73 Jensen Interceptor
74 Interceptor (EFI by Megasquirt + overdrive 4sp auto)

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AshM
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#13 Re: Distributor problem

Post by AshM » Wed May 30, 2018 7:45 pm

No Phillip I have not experimented. Two reasons;

- have been so pleased with its starting, truly is like a switch so did not want to spoil that.

- I am not a racer, give me some good quiet country roads and it gives me all the performance I need.

cheers
Ash
Series 2 FHC 1970
1R 20607

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Tom W
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#14 Re: Distributor problem

Post by Tom W » Thu May 31, 2018 6:16 pm

It’s definitely worth setting up your 123 distributor properly. Getting it right doesn’t just make the car faster, it will improve economy and ensure the car runs at the correct temperature too.

If you have the programmable version and an otherwise standard car, you can set it to match the original factory curve, then work down from there if your car’s not happy on modern fuel. If you have the one with the preset curves and a standard engine, you have to find the curve closest to the original. They’re essentially grouped together based on total advance, then there are 3 choices of how aggressively the advance gets to the total. If set at the 10deg starting point (Jag variant) as per the 123 manual, then all the curves start at the same 12deg point at idle, which incidentally is different to the original timing setting.

I have the Jag variant with the preset curves. My car is modified, so I’ve moved away from the settings in the manual and, after some experimenting, it runs much better now. Ive worked top down, rather than bottom up. I found the car responded better to more advance at idle. I’ve picked the curve range with the shortest total advance, and have increased the idle setting. By picking a shorter curve, I can increase the timing at idle, without increasing the total timing beyond the point where I know the engine is happy. I think there’s still more performance to be had, but I’d like to get it set up on a rolling road next, to safely work out what the maximum advance for my engine is.
Tom
1970 S2 FHC

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