The 'E' Type Forum

Car broke down this morning
No spark
I think I've tracked it down to the distributor. Its a CSI electronic ignition unit and coolant has been leaking onto it from a water pipe above it.
I've cleaned it up a bit and dried off the cap and leads and the car will start and run but only intermittently.
Will I need a new dizzy or is it possible to dismantle the CSI unit and get all the congealed coolant off it.
Thanks for any advice

Tom

Hi Tom...not familiar with that electronic unit but assume its sealed with no electronics exposed....reroveing and cleaning should be done if its a sticky mess in there.... as this will affect the base plate/springs etc... Steve

thanks
will remove this afternoon
not had the dizzy out before
is it best to jack the car up at the front to get to the base plate bolt?

You should not need to jack the car up....Steve

I can see a pinch bolt easily but can't see a bolt connecting the base plate to the block
is it easily accessible??

Yes there is a bolt holding the plate..you can get to it fairly easy....bit late now..you probably already done it.. Steve

Yes
Managed to remove it and clean it up a bit
Got the car running but then it stalled and is not restarting
I think I may need a new distributor
Any recommendations??

Hi..please try to put your name and car model in the signature area..thanks....re dizzy...have a look at the similar topics that are listed below.....your oprions...original,.....or get your rebuilt...can it have a new unit fitted...or 123, a couple of options...down to choice really...are you sure its the dizzy....what about the cap...and rotor arm..the only one to have is a red one from the Distributor Doctor...treat all others with caution. Steve

I had a similar issue. Cleaning out and an overhaul of the distributor fixed all. The weights were gunked up. The Distributor Doctor is the place to get a thorough professional overhaul. If it's not producing any spark at all, check the cabling to the coil. The csi ignition unit may also have moved during the cleaning. make sure it is correctly distanced to the centre piece.

spotdoc67 wrote: ↑

Tue May 29, 2018 6:52 am

I think I may need a new distributor
Any recommendations??

123 Bluetooth distributor

Gets my vote too - although I have the version that has to be adjusted manually.

Respecting that there are many experiences and views on the 123 I can only go by my experience.

Fitted it on factory-set curve, car started instantly. Have done 1,000 miles without any problems at all. Nothing done to Tacho, all fine too. Definitely starts better; especially when hot.

But, as I say, respecting others will have other experiences and views.

Good luck with whatever you decide - let us know.

cheers
Ash

AshM wrote: ↑

Wed May 30, 2018 7:00 pm

Fitted it on factory-set curve, car started instantly. Have done 1,000 miles without any problems at all.

Have you played around with the curves Ash, trying the others? Reason I'm asking is that at one point I had that S1 engine so "Nervous"/Racy/chomping-at-the-bit that I knew the owner would not be happy. It was TOO responsive - if you can believe that.

I found myself having to do what manufacturers do - detune the car, to have a more docile character. But for that owner it was the right thing to do.

No Phillip I have not experimented. Two reasons;

- have been so pleased with its starting, truly is like a switch so did not want to spoil that.

- I am not a racer, give me some good quiet country roads and it gives me all the performance I need.

cheers
Ash

It’s definitely worth setting up your 123 distributor properly. Getting it right doesn’t just make the car faster, it will improve economy and ensure the car runs at the correct temperature too.

If you have the programmable version and an otherwise standard car, you can set it to match the original factory curve, then work down from there if your car’s not happy on modern fuel. If you have the one with the preset curves and a standard engine, you have to find the curve closest to the original. They’re essentially grouped together based on total advance, then there are 3 choices of how aggressively the advance gets to the total. If set at the 10deg starting point (Jag variant) as per the 123 manual, then all the curves start at the same 12deg point at idle, which incidentally is different to the original timing setting.

I have the Jag variant with the preset curves. My car is modified, so I’ve moved away from the settings in the manual and, after some experimenting, it runs much better now. Ive worked top down, rather than bottom up. I found the car responded better to more advance at idle. I’ve picked the curve range with the shortest total advance, and have increased the idle setting. By picking a shorter curve, I can increase the timing at idle, without increasing the total timing beyond the point where I know the engine is happy. I think there’s still more performance to be had, but I’d like to get it set up on a rolling road next, to safely work out what the maximum advance for my engine is.

I’ve been very happy with my 123 Jag. Standard curve, starts well, runs well very responsive.

Wouldn't touch 123 with a wire brush and dettol

I would tend to agree with Christopher. Fitted a simple powerspark module in place of the points to mine. Worked out of the box and has not missed a best in five years....."simples"

The quality/reliability of the 123 has been debated here previously with sharply divided opinions. I used Pertronix in my old Volvo years ago and then when I got my E, I replaced the points with Pertronix in its Lucas dizzy. Both worked flawlessly. My Lucas broke about 4 years ago (something must have come loose internally, got caught and shattered the lower housing) and I replaced it with a standard 123 distributor. It runs and starts like a modern EDIS ignition system, hot or cold engine, hot or cold ambient temperature, wet or dry weather. I never have been able to find out why Christopher and his friends have had such horrible luck with the 123.

The 123 distributor in mine is excellent. The only thing I have found is for my car, with Weber carbs, the starting point recommended in the book isn’t the best. If set as per the instructions, all the curves start at 12 degrees advance at idle, with a choice of how much total advance there is, and how quickly it gets there. Following the advice in Des Hammill’s books on XK engines and Weber carbs, I found the engine responded better to more advance at idle. To keep the total advance the same, I picked a shorter curve, removing from the top end what I’d added in to the bottom end.

Mark Gordon wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 03, 2018 6:13 pm

I never have been able to find out why Christopher and his friends have had such horrible luck with the 123.

Mark : neither have we, although we do think that our damp climate has something to do with it . In fairness to the 123, it is not alone : the pattern seems to be with all the electronic setups that if you get through the first 12 months without trouble , all will be well . All the failures seem to be in the early stages of use