Difference btw US and European spec’s

Talk about the E-Type Series 2
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Calleberntsson
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#1 Difference btw US and European spec’s

Post by Calleberntsson » Fri Sep 07, 2018 7:10 pm

Possibly an old topic, pls excuse my poor search :shrug:
Got an US spec S1.5 OTS that I plan to Europeanise ...
The replacement of 2x Stromberg and 3,54 final gear are obvious ... but what else need to be replaced to recreate a “real” 265hp European driveline spec?
Are the cam shafts, distributor etc identical?
Calle Berntsson
S1.5 OTS 1968 Signal Red

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politeperson
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#2 Re: Difference btw US and European spec’s

Post by politeperson » Fri Sep 07, 2018 9:03 pm

Not much. Hopefully you have a rust free car. That is the most important thing.

Maybe the distributor. Maybe you have a carbon filter to remove on the fuel system (maybe not, I did on a 1969 car.

The 123 Tune + distributor is fabulous if you want to keeps carbs.

Headlamps and running lights rewiring. Cheap though.

A 2.88 XJS diff was £400. A 5 speed conversion £5,000. I love my original Jaguar all synchro 4 speed, and it flies with the XJS powerlocker.

Some think the sweet spot is the 3.07.

If you are keeping it lhd even less. Took me 3 days to convert from LHD to RHD.

Ditch the whitewalls!

As SUs seem to be a bit pricey, I might consider throttle bodies if you want to drive loads of miles in it, like I do.

The most important thing you can do is to wax inject all the box sections properly. You can then take everything else at your leisure.

Then make sure all the shocks, tyres, wheels, bearings, bushes and seals are as they should be.

Fuse boxes seem to need replacing to maintain continuity.


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James

L.J.K. Setright was right.
"You just cant beat a good E-type"

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mark10337
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#3 Re: Difference btw US and European spec’s

Post by mark10337 » Sun Sep 09, 2018 3:06 pm

You will definitely need to change the distributor if you change the carbs and want it running correctly.
The water return pipe to the water pump is also different. It is a T piece on the US cars to cater for the secondary inlet manifold cooling circuit. And of course the inlet manifolds are different.
Also the rear light lenses.
-Mark

1969 Series 2 OTS, Regency Red
'Life's to short to drive a boring car'

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Tom W
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#4 Re: Difference btw US and European spec’s

Post by Tom W » Sun Sep 09, 2018 8:32 pm

I think the fuel tank breather arrangement and is different on emission spec cars. My S2 has extra marker lights front and rear. The front side lights were originally orange too.
Tom
1970 S2 FHC

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nefematic
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#5 Re: Difference btw US and European spec’s

Post by nefematic » Sun Sep 09, 2018 10:06 pm

As politeperson stated: You might check the rear end. Depending on year and gearbox, US models had different differential ratios than row cars. Not a small thing because once in there, and the IRS is in/out, you’ll want to take care of all the other IRS-issues. And with the lighting, Marekh can help on those.
Martin Scherz
Late S2 1970 OTS US LHD

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Marquis Rex
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#6 Re: Difference btw US and European spec’s

Post by Marquis Rex » Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:40 pm

I just bought a Series 2 OTS recently too. I'm from Europe originally. Have been contemplating what to change to Euro spec.
I know my rear end is 3.54:1. It DOES feel ludicrously under geared. Not sure if it has an LSD. The torque is nice though. It runs about 20-21 mph/1000 rpm in 4th gear.

I want to change the indicator lenses for the amber ones for both front and rear.

The distributors over here were these vacuum retard devices for emissions only. I thought about the 123 system but I have enough vehicles with solid state mapped systems (infact I helped map some of the more modern Jaguars when I worked for them) and I like the fact that my older stuff is mechanical. I'll either source a vacuum advance early dizzy or get a Petronix High Performance unit with Vac adv that i can mess around the weights and springs with.
"Live Fast, Live Well, Live Free!"
1970 Jaguar E type OTS

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