Today's conundrums

[skiday]

OK Questions for today

No.1 With a series 1A (1.5) should I be here or in with series 1?

2. My bonnet doesn't stay up :( (nobody sugest Viagra). Before my bonnet gets to the top position the springs have conpleatly compressed. I think they must be too long. How many rings should I be able to count on the side of the spring?

As you can see, I have 21. Is that right? And yes I know, I must get around to a bit of cleaning round there, I've had to drive it in the rain lately

3. The alternator heat shield you are looking at is made of what exactly? The part by the exhaust looks like aluminumum, but the part over the alt seems to have some surface rust. Is it painted steel? If so, would silver Hammerite be a sacralidge?

4. Does this o/side wheel arch shield wobble about on all cars? seems a bit insecure at the top as it's only fixed at the bottom edge.

Sorry to ask so many questions in one go.

Cheers for all help.

Andrew

[kingzetts]

Hi.

On your second point, my springs have 21 coils and a length when unextended of 85mm (not counting the "ears" which slip over the mounting pins).

The springs are there to assist you in opening the bonnet by supporting its weight when it is closed - if you ever try lifting up a closed bonnet with the springs removed you'll find it very heavy. If your problem is that once opened the bonnet wants to close itself, then this is an indication that the springs have gone weak and should be replaced - you can buy slightly uprated as well as direct replacements. Good springs should hold the bonnet in a balanced open position and you should have to push the bonnet down gently to extend the springs and close the bonnet.

You may also encounter wear in the pins on which the springs sit, where the "ears" of the springs have worn away the pins over time, and in the pivot points in the linkage. I had to build up my pins with some weld to restore their diameter, and replace the pivot bolt where the linkage attaches to the frame in front of the radiator. This wear could result in the "open" position of the bonnet being lower (less open) than it should be as in effect the linkage has to move to a slightly closed position before it starts to extend the springs.

Of course you may have both problems - weak springs and worn linkages.

Hope this helps.

[1954Etype]

Hi.

On your second point, my springs have 21 coils and a length when unextended of 85mm (not counting the "ears" which slip over the mounting pins).

The springs are there to assist you in opening the bonnet by supporting its weight when it is closed - if you ever try lifting up a closed bonnet with the springs removed you'll find it very heavy. If your problem is that once opened the bonnet wants to close itself, then this is an indication that the springs have gone weak and should be replaced - you can buy slightly uprated as well as direct replacements. Good springs should hold the bonnet in a balanced open position and you should have to push the bonnet down gently to extend the springs and close the bonnet.

You may also encounter wear in the pins on which the springs sit, where the "ears" of the springs have worn away the pins over time, and in the pivot points in the linkage. I had to build up my pins with some weld to restore their diameter, and replace the pivot bolt where the linkage attaches to the frame in front of the radiator. This wear could result in the "open" position of the bonnet being lower (less open) than it should be as in effect the linkage has to move to a slightly closed position before it starts to extend the springs.

Of course you may have both problems - weak springs and worn linkages.

Hope this helps.

The mudguard is held with a bracket at the top. If you look closely, you will see 2 small holes drilled in the top where pop rivets got to hold the bracket.

The alternator sheild can be painted in silver hammerite - should be close to original then. (BTW, the sheild you want to paint if more about directing the air flow from the fan over the alternator for cooling and the other shield protects the bearings from the heat of the exhaust manifold).

[skiday]

- you can buy slightly uprated as well as direct replacements.

Great. Thanks.
SNG Barret have the standards, but do you know who does the upgraded ones?

[kingzetts]

No, sorry - I bought mine off a stall at Stoneleigh spares day last year and can't remember who it was. Not one of the big usuals, though.

[HarryW]

Andrew,
With regard to the bonnet not staying up, check that the springs on both sides are properly secured; also, if the car is on an uphill slope (even a slight one), this will tend to make the bonnet close (I carry a length of bamboo in the spare wheel well for this eventuality).
As regards the heat shield, Hammerite works fine - just make sure you stir it thoroughly.
Caveat : these tips apply to a Series 1 and cannot be guaranteed for a Series 2

[steve3.8]

Andrew, the uprated springs are from A J Autocraft [Andy] www.ajautocraft.co.uk ,they were out of stock but i think hes had another batch made now,regards Steve

[skiday]

Thanks Steve :)