Bonnet Removal
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#1 Bonnet Removal
Morning All
There are some helpful posts on here about removing the bonnet alone, doesn’t seem too hard. My S2 has a different hinge set up from the helper spring detail in the Haynes manual. I guess it changed at some point on the later cars? I presume once supported its just a case of removing the damper and undoing the four setscrews on each hinge?
Cheers, Colin.
There are some helpful posts on here about removing the bonnet alone, doesn’t seem too hard. My S2 has a different hinge set up from the helper spring detail in the Haynes manual. I guess it changed at some point on the later cars? I presume once supported its just a case of removing the damper and undoing the four setscrews on each hinge?
Cheers, Colin.
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Colin
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
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#2 Re: Bonnet Removal
Colin, that’s right. Use the advice you’ve read and at an appropriate point remove the bolts holding the strut at each end. If you look on the for sale section there are plans for a wheeled bonnet stand if that’ll be useful for what you’re doing.
Geoff
Geoff
Last edited by Gfhug on Tue Jan 05, 2021 9:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#3 Re: Bonnet Removal
Colin : the hydraulic link is no problem : just unbolt it once the bonnet has been secured in an open position . I do not advise unbolting the hinges unless you have to : it is better to take out the horizontal bolts on the lower forward part of the forward frame, and then remove the top hat inserts which allow the bonnet to swivel around them. The bonnet can then be lifted clear. If you are doing this in the conventional way, rather than by tying the bonnet up in a vertical position, note that it is far easier and safer with 3 men ( of any sex! ) one at the front controlling the bonnet aperture, and one under each wheelarch. The centre of gravity is much further forward than you would expect , and is about 2/3 of the way towards the front of each wheelarch - this is why the man at the front is so useful because he can control the fore and aft "trim" much better
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#4 Re: Bonnet Removal
Thanks guys, that's helpful - and the gender neutral advice is noted Chris!
Colin
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
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#5 Re: Bonnet Removal
My Series 2 does not have the strut holding the bonnet, instead it has the elaborate spring mechanism. Is it possible to replace the spring mechanism with the strut version? Are the correct mounting points for the strut the same as the spring mechanism?
Thank you in advance.
Thank you in advance.
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#6 Re: Bonnet Removal
Bob, there are simple brackets on the bonnet and the picture frame as you can see in the photos. I'm sure if you contact the usual suppliers they will be able to help you.
You may have to gain access to both sides of the bonnet to attach the bracket there, so you would probably have to remove the headlight or other parts, but doable, I'd like to think.
BTW, the strut from SNG Barratts is not as long as the original, I've dimensions and know of a UK supplier that has a longer strut
Geoff
You may have to gain access to both sides of the bonnet to attach the bracket there, so you would probably have to remove the headlight or other parts, but doable, I'd like to think.
BTW, the strut from SNG Barratts is not as long as the original, I've dimensions and know of a UK supplier that has a longer strut
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
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#7 Re: Bonnet Removal
Update- first top hat was very obliging, the second withstood releasing oil, gentle leverage, brute force, shock and a good deal of heat for about 90 minutes before I gave in and got out the grinder. Bonnet now stored on the newly built trolley that Geoff put me on to. Thanks all.
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Series 2 OTS, 280SL
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#8 Re: Bonnet Removal
Bob Wrote:
A bonnet originally set up with the spring counter balance mechanisms can be converted to use a gas strut, but its not just a matter of bolting a couple of brackets in place.
The attachment to the picture frame end of the gas strut is just a bolt on arrangement, but where it attaches to the forward bulkhead of the bonnet needs a bit or work. The following two pictures show the front side of the Left Hand forward bulkhead panel for cars equipped with and without a gas strut. You will see that the panel from the car equipped with a gas strut has substantial reinforcement infrastructure for the front mount of the gas strut. A reasonable load is required to compress the gas strut and all that load will be taken by Left Hand forward bulkhead panel.
The following picture is of the front face of the LH Forward Bulkhead Panel of the Bonnet. The bracket, which included the reinforcement is not available as a separate item. Accordingly, you would have to have it made and then it should be spot welded, or MIG plug welded to the panel. It would probably be cheaper over all, to purchase a new LH Forward Bulkhead Panel that is available with the reinforcement bracket already in place. Either way, the panel will have to be removed from the bonnet to do the work.
The following picture is the similar panel from a bonnet not equipped with a gas strut, showing where the reinforcement and attachment bracket would be located.
The following picture shows the face of the LH Forward Bulkhead Panel where the gas strut attaches.
Regards,
Bill
Hello Bob,My Series 2 does not have the strut holding the bonnet, instead it has the elaborate spring mechanism. Is it possible to replace the spring mechanism with the strut version? Are the correct mounting points for the strut the same as the spring mechanism?
A bonnet originally set up with the spring counter balance mechanisms can be converted to use a gas strut, but its not just a matter of bolting a couple of brackets in place.
The attachment to the picture frame end of the gas strut is just a bolt on arrangement, but where it attaches to the forward bulkhead of the bonnet needs a bit or work. The following two pictures show the front side of the Left Hand forward bulkhead panel for cars equipped with and without a gas strut. You will see that the panel from the car equipped with a gas strut has substantial reinforcement infrastructure for the front mount of the gas strut. A reasonable load is required to compress the gas strut and all that load will be taken by Left Hand forward bulkhead panel.
The following picture is of the front face of the LH Forward Bulkhead Panel of the Bonnet. The bracket, which included the reinforcement is not available as a separate item. Accordingly, you would have to have it made and then it should be spot welded, or MIG plug welded to the panel. It would probably be cheaper over all, to purchase a new LH Forward Bulkhead Panel that is available with the reinforcement bracket already in place. Either way, the panel will have to be removed from the bonnet to do the work.
The following picture is the similar panel from a bonnet not equipped with a gas strut, showing where the reinforcement and attachment bracket would be located.
The following picture shows the face of the LH Forward Bulkhead Panel where the gas strut attaches.
Regards,
Bill
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#9 Re: Bonnet Removal
Bill, thank you for this, it’s always good to learn more about how our cars were built.
Geoff
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#10 Re: Bonnet Removal
Thank you for the full reply and examples. To be honest, that is a lot more work than I was expecting. I guess I will continue to deal with my spring assisted system.
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#11 Re: Bonnet Removal
Bob Wrote:
Its a fairly simple job if you were to purchase a new panel, available from SNGB, complete with the infrastructure for the gas strut in place; part number BD36578.
Regards,
Bill
Hello Bob,To be honest, that is a lot more work than I was expecting. I guess I will continue to deal with my spring assisted system.
Its a fairly simple job if you were to purchase a new panel, available from SNGB, complete with the infrastructure for the gas strut in place; part number BD36578.
Regards,
Bill
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