Charging issue on my series 3

[Djerome60]

Does the light go off when you disconnect the connector to the regulator?

Philip,

the light stay on when i disconnect the Neg from the regulator.
Does it means that my alternator is well grounded?

cheers
Jerome

[jagwit]

Jerome, it is not clear to me what exactly you removed.

So:
1) remove the entire connector from the regulator;

2) If the light stays on, remove the F- (Brown / Green) wire from the alternator;

3) If the light stays on, remove the F+ (Brown / Red ) wire from the alternator;

In each case, let us know what the light does.

[Djerome60]

Jerome, it is not clear to me what exactly you removed.

So:
1) remove the entire connector from the regulator;

2) If the light stays on, remove the F- (Brown / Green) wire from the alternator;

3) If the light stays on, remove the F+ (Brown / Red ) wire from the alternator;

In each case, let us know what the light does.
[/quote

actually i just remonved the negative plug as i have 3 single connectors

Anyway, i did the test above and in the 3 cases the lights stay on (engine not running).
Regulator deconnected (3 plugs)- F- disconnected - F+ disconnected = light stays<

Any ideas?
thanks

[jagwit]

Anyway, i did the test above and in the 3 cases the lights stay on (engine not running).

In this case Jerome there are only two possibilities (that I can think of):
1) there is a short circuit on the Brown / Red wire to ground (which would explain why the alternator is not charging); or
2) you are not testing the charge light but possibly the oil pressure light. (Someone might have swopped the two lights around...) We should first eliminate this possibility. Find the oil pressure SWITCH (not the oil pressure sensor). They are situated either in the V of the engine behind the throttle pedestal or on the LH side of the engine (harder to reach) against the block. The oil pressure sensor is larger than the switch (about the size of a golf ball). Remove the wire from the oil pressure SWITCH. If the light goes off, it is confirmed that you are working with the oil pressure light and not the charge light.

[Djerome60]

Anyway, i did the test above and in the 3 cases the lights stay on (engine not running).

In this case Jerome there are only two possibilities (that I can think of):
1) there is a short circuit on the Brown / Red wire to ground (which would explain why the alternator is not charging); or
2) you are not testing the charge light but possibly the oil pressure light. (Someone might have swopped the two lights around...) We should first eliminate this possibility. Find the oil pressure SWITCH (not the oil pressure sensor). They are situated either in the V of the engine behind the throttle pedestal or on the LH side of the engine (harder to reach) against the block. The oil pressure sensor is larger than the switch (about the size of a golf ball). Remove the wire from the oil pressure SWITCH. If the light goes off, it is confirmed that you are working with the oil pressure light and not the charge light.

Thanks i guess it's option 1 then as the oil pressure light works well.
Ok i ll then investigate this further<; <i understand that my issue is not coming from the alternator itself.
Thanks again. Kepp you posted
Jérôme

[angelw]

Djerome60 Wrote:
actually i just remonved the negative plug as i have 3 single connectors

Hello Djerome60,
There are three terminals on the Voltage Regulator, Positive, Negative and Field. With 3 separate connectors, the wire from the ignition warning light (Brown/Black changing to Brown/Red) connects to the Positive terminal. Accordingly, to conduct the tests suggested by Jagwit, you should disconnect the Positive Connection at the Regulator.

If you still get the same result, I agree with Jagwit with regards to a Short to Ground. I would trace the Brown/Black wire from the ignition warning light to where it connects to the Brown/Red wire that then connects to the Regulator and disconnect the Brown/Black wire at that connection. If the Ignition light is extinguished when the ignition is on by disconnecting the Brown/Black wire, then at least you have eliminated a short to ground between the ignition light and the connection to the Brown/Red wire that connects to the Regulator.

Regards,

Bill

[Djerome60]

Jerome, it is not clear to me what exactly you removed.

So:
1) remove the entire connector from the regulator;

2) If the light stays on, remove the F- (Brown / Green) wire from the alternator;

3) If the light stays on, remove the F+ (Brown / Red ) wire from the alternator;

In each case, let us know what the light does.

Simon,

i'm sorry i have been much away the last few days but i went back home for lunch time and took 30 minjutes to do the test again.
When i disconnect the entire connector from the regulator the light goes off. (engine not running)

Thansk for your heslp
Cheers
Jérôme

[Djerome60]

Djerome60 Wrote:
actually i just remonved the negative plug as i have 3 single connectors

Hello Djerome60,
There are three terminals on the Voltage Regulator, Positive, Negative and Field. With 3 separate connectors, the wire from the ignition warning light (Brown/Black changing to Brown/Red) connects to the Positive terminal. Accordingly, to conduct the tests suggested by Jagwit, you should disconnect the Positive Connection at the Regulator.

If you still get the same result, I agree with Jagwit with regards to a Short to Ground. I would trace the Brown/Black wire from the ignition warning light to where it connects to the Brown/Red wire that then connects to the Regulator and disconnect the Brown/Black wire at that connection. If the Ignition light is extinguished when the ignition is on by disconnecting the Brown/Black wire, then at least you have eliminated a short to ground between the ignition light and the connection to the Brown/Red wire that connects to the Regulator.

Regards,

Bill

Hi Bill,

as you will probably see in a post i just wrote to Simon, i have actually made the test again and the light goes off now when i disconnect the positive connection from the regulator.
It's quiet strange as this was not the case before.
Thansk for you help
Cheers
Jérôme

[jagwit]

When i disconnect the entire connector from the regulator the light goes off. (engine not running)

Aha!! Progress! This is telling me that everything seems normal all the way through the alternator.

Now, the next test:
1) With everything connected normally, connect your volt meter between battery + and battery -
2) start the engine - all electrical loads like lights and fans etc should be off;
3) take the reading on the volt meter and then, for only 2-3 seconds, short the F- terminal to ground and look at what the volt meter does. Since you have individual connectors to the regulator, you can disconnect only F- from the regulator and short it briefly to ground.

Let's hear what happens.

[Djerome60]

When i disconnect the entire connector from the regulator the light goes off. (engine not running)

Aha!! Progress! This is telling me that everything seems normal all the way through the alternator.

Now, the next test:
1) With everything connected normally, connect your volt meter between battery + and battery -
2) start the engine - all electrical loads like lights and fans etc should be off;
3) take the reading on the volt meter and then, for only 2-3 seconds, short the F- terminal to ground and look at what the volt meter does. Since you have individual connectors to the regulator, you can disconnect only F- from the regulator and short it briefly to ground.

Let's hear what happens.

Hi,
I m going backward.
I realized that the ignition light was not as bright as it used to be and it was not well back in place in the holder. When i adjusted it the light was on even when i disconnected the negative field.... Back to were i was.
I did the test above anyway and there is no voltage difference when i ground the negative field.
Any idea? Short cut?
Thanks

[jagwit]

Then we are back to the idea that the Brown/red wire or Brown/Black wire from the light has a short to ground. You have to trace those wires to find the short (Or replace them completely).

In the mean time you can test the alternator as follows:
1) Connect a wire from alternator F- to ground;
2) connect a wire from alternator F+ with the other end ready to briefly contact + on the battery (or use a switch)

With the volt meter connected to both poles of the battery, start the engine and briefly (2 seconds) touch the F+ wire to battery +. You should expect some small sparks. This should provide full field current and should cause max alternator voltage output. OBserve the volt meter while you apply 12V to the field windings.

Lets see what you find.

[Djerome60]

Then we are back to the idea that the Brown/red wire or Brown/Black wire from the light has a short to ground. You have to trace those wires to find the short (Or replace them completely).

In the mean time you can test the alternator as follows:
1) Connect a wire from alternator F- to ground;
2) connect a wire from alternator F+ with the other end ready to briefly contact + on the battery (or use a switch)

With the volt meter connected to both poles of the battery, start the engine and briefly (2 seconds) touch the F+ wire to battery +. You should expect some small sparks. This should provide full field current and should cause max alternator voltage output. OBserve the volt meter while you apply 12V to the field windings.

Lets see what you find.

Hi,

i'm pretty sure there is indeed a wiring issue but i need to do the test anyway. I'll keep you posted on the result (i can do it probably next sunday). Indeed, when the buld is not in contact with the dashboard the light is on but at a lower intensity than when the holder is its place.

Keep you posted when the test will be done but i'm pretty sure the alternator is ok.

Regards
jérôme

[Djerome60]

Then we are back to the idea that the Brown/red wire or Brown/Black wire from the light has a short to ground. You have to trace those wires to find the short (Or replace them completely).

In the mean time you can test the alternator as follows:
1) Connect a wire from alternator F- to ground;
2) connect a wire from alternator F+ with the other end ready to briefly contact + on the battery (or use a switch)

With the volt meter connected to both poles of the battery, start the engine and briefly (2 seconds) touch the F+ wire to battery +. You should expect some small sparks. This should provide full field current and should cause max alternator voltage output. OBserve the volt meter while you apply 12V to the field windings.

Lets see what you find.

Hi,

i'm pretty sure there is indeed a wiring issue but i need to do the test anyway. I'll keep you posted on the result (i can do it probably next sunday). Indeed, when the buld is not in contact with the dashboard the light is on but at a lower intensity than when the holder is its place.

Keep you posted when the test will be done but i'm pretty sure the alternator is ok.

Regards
jérôme

Hi,
I just made the test and thé alternator is not generated any power.
I m going to take it off.
Thanks for your help.
Keep you posted
Jerome

[Djerome60]

Hi,

just to keep you up to date, i have finally received my replacement unit and fitted back yesterday night and the problem is cured. yesss!!!!
Thanks everybody for your help and support.
Wheers
Jérôme