Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Talk about the E-Type Series 3
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lowact
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#1 Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by lowact » Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:35 am

There has been some posts related to this, I note Simon has sort of done it, with Getrag gearbox.
This article by Dick Maury: http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/V12 ... moval.html
suggests what seems to be fairly straight forward procedure, has anyone else done it like this, might there be warnings, updates to this procedure?

V12 E-Type Transmission removal
by Dick Maury
The auto or manual can easily be removed from the V12 without pulling the engine. Here are the steps.. This is basically a 2 hour job with a lift and basic hand tools.
1. Inside the car, remove the shift knob and tapered base chrome finisher on the manual cars. If automatic, go to step 2.
2. There is a pipe that is threaded on both ends that holds the two sides of the car in place. It goes between the engine and transmission. The bolts are accessed from inside the car by lifting the carpets on the tunnel. Go under the car and attach a pair of vice grips to keep it from turning. Note the location and it will make it easier to find the bolt heads inside the car. Remove both bolts. The pipe will fall on the ground. Note that you will probably need some help putting this back in.
3. Under the bonnet, remove the bolts and nuts that hold the upper front picture frame in place. No need to drain the cooling system or remove the header tank. When done, pry the cross piece up so it is loose from the picture frame.
4. Now under the car, remove the exhaust from the olive flanges at the downpipes back. No need to take the system apart, just set aside as a unit. Drain the oil on either transmission. Remove dipstick on automatic from transmission. You can leave it hanging in place. On the automatic, there is an access point on the left side of the car to access the torque converter bolts. Remove all 4 at this point.
5. Now unbolt the front motor mounts at the base with the 5/16x24 bolts and nuts. Remove bolts and note the spacer/insulator plate for putting back when assembling
6. Place a jack under the rear of the engine or transmission and lift the rear of the transmission until it hits the tunnel. Remove the rear support plate and brackets. Note the spacers and their position for reassembly. Lower the jack to access the driveshaft bolts and nuts. Remove and press the driveshaft rearward enough to clear the transmission flange. Remove the jack and the rear of the transmission will drop some more. It will not drop out of the car.
7. If automatic, disconnect the shift lever and cable bracket from the transmisison.
8. Place a jack with soft board (2x4) under the oil cooler area and gently jack up the front of the engine. As it goes up, the rear will drop. When the rear transmission flange clears the body, stop. Install Transmission jack and remove bell housing bolts. If automatic, remove vacuum line and kickdown wiring.
9. Lower transmission out. On the manual, it might be necessary to tilt the transmission slightly to clear the torsion bars.
10. Drop the transmission. Install is reverse of the removal.
11. Note that there are no modifications to the car and no cutting, grinding or trimming.
Regards,
ColinL
'72 OTS manual V12

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JJC
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#2 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by JJC » Tue Mar 06, 2018 7:22 am

On a Series 3, a long wheel base of course, trick is to alter driveshaft . 1st time a pain....may have to just loosen rear (IRS) to wiggle out shaft, but future jobs a snap. Have reputable drive shaft take about 3 inches off shaft, replaced with a longer sliding yoke, re balance, and your set. Now to pull gear box, just a matter of un-do the bolts, around bell housing, etc, and pull back gear box. Maybe not 35 minutes (pulling center console takes a bit of time ), but not much longer. Changing clutch now a stress free afternoon. A lift, and another set of good hands to assist, is mandatory.

John

1973 OTS V12 since new.

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jagwit
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#3 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by jagwit » Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:28 am

lowact wrote:
Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:35 am
There has been some posts related to this, I note Simon has sort of done it, with Getrag gearbox.
This article by Dick Maury: http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/V12 ... moval.html
suggests what seems to be fairly straight forward procedure, has anyone else done it like this, might there be warnings, updates to this procedure?

V12 E-Type Transmission removal
by Dick Maury
The auto or manual can easily be removed from the V12 without pulling the engine. Here are the steps.. This is basically a 2 hour job with a lift and basic hand tools.
1. Inside the car, remove the shift knob and tapered base chrome finisher on the manual cars. If automatic, go to step 2.
2. There is a pipe that is threaded on both ends that holds the two sides of the car in place. It goes between the engine and transmission. The bolts are accessed from inside the car by lifting the carpets on the tunnel. Go under the car and attach a pair of vice grips to keep it from turning. Note the location and it will make it easier to find the bolt heads inside the car. Remove both bolts. The pipe will fall on the ground. Note that you will probably need some help putting this back in.
3. Under the bonnet, remove the bolts and nuts that hold the upper front picture frame in place. No need to drain the cooling system or remove the header tank. When done, pry the cross piece up so it is loose from the picture frame.
4. Now under the car, remove the exhaust from the olive flanges at the downpipes back. No need to take the system apart, just set aside as a unit. Drain the oil on either transmission. Remove dipstick on automatic from transmission. You can leave it hanging in place. On the automatic, there is an access point on the left side of the car to access the torque converter bolts. Remove all 4 at this point.
5. Now unbolt the front motor mounts at the base with the 5/16x24 bolts and nuts. Remove bolts and note the spacer/insulator plate for putting back when assembling
6. Place a jack under the rear of the engine or transmission and lift the rear of the transmission until it hits the tunnel. Remove the rear support plate and brackets. Note the spacers and their position for reassembly. Lower the jack to access the driveshaft bolts and nuts. Remove and press the driveshaft rearward enough to clear the transmission flange. Remove the jack and the rear of the transmission will drop some more. It will not drop out of the car.
7. If automatic, disconnect the shift lever and cable bracket from the transmisison.
8. Place a jack with soft board (2x4) under the oil cooler area and gently jack up the front of the engine. As it goes up, the rear will drop. When the rear transmission flange clears the body, stop. Install Transmission jack and remove bell housing bolts. If automatic, remove vacuum line and kickdown wiring.
9. Lower transmission out. On the manual, it might be necessary to tilt the transmission slightly to clear the torsion bars.
10. Drop the transmission. Install is reverse of the removal.
11. Note that there are no modifications to the car and no cutting, grinding or trimming.
I always thought the REAL issue was that there is not enough space for the gear lever to be moved rearwards far enough for the transmission input shaft to clear the pressure plate?
Best Regards
Philip
71 E-type V12 Coupe,
80 XJS (EFI by Megasquirt & EDIS-6 + 5sp manual overdrive)
73 Jensen Interceptor
74 Interceptor (EFI by Megasquirt + overdrive 4sp auto)

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JJC
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#4 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by JJC » Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:51 am

Remove the gear shift lever first...two bolts......very easy.

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jagwit
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#5 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by jagwit » Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:23 am

JJC wrote:
Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:51 am
Remove the gear shift lever first...two bolts......very easy.
This should be step 1 surely? There should then be no need to remove the gear knob?
Best Regards
Philip
71 E-type V12 Coupe,
80 XJS (EFI by Megasquirt & EDIS-6 + 5sp manual overdrive)
73 Jensen Interceptor
74 Interceptor (EFI by Megasquirt + overdrive 4sp auto)

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JJC
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#6 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by JJC » Thu Mar 08, 2018 5:12 pm

Sure call it step one I guess.......I usually get the pain in the neck console out of the way before anything, but call it step one. I have pulled my gear box 3 or 4 times over the last ten years for one reason or another, and frankly, its all become rather simple. I don't think it maters if you take off the knob , but if it helps you, I would put aside an additional 5 seconds for that task. No biggie .
Happy motoring !

John

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driver
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#7 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by driver » Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:33 pm

Hi Rob Gill here,
when i took my gearbox out i removed radiator ,header tank crossrail,alternator,air box etc.moved over power steering pump so i could move engine far enough forward,so that the rear gearbox flange cleared the propshaft
flange when i withdrew the gearbox.Are you saying that it was not required to do this.? :wow: :salute:
v12 etype 2+2

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JJC
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#8 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by JJC » Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:20 pm

Not a Series 3.

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Polse7317
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#9 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by Polse7317 » Tue Apr 17, 2018 2:55 pm

Is it possible to remove a moss gear box and fit a getrag 265 one without removing the engine ? ( serie one FHC).... :shrug:
:fingerscrossed:

Sorry the post is not in the right place .... :roll:
Yves, happy XKE 63 fhc , w113 280sl owner
Looking for a OTS 4.2 serie 1....! :scratchheadyellow: and now have found a fhc xk 140 :lol:

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christopher storey
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#10 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by christopher storey » Tue Apr 17, 2018 3:27 pm

No . In any short wheelbase car, the tunnel prevents you removing the gearbox without removing the engine

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colin gray
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#11 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by colin gray » Thu Jul 19, 2018 3:20 pm

I have just tried this method to remove and repair my tail shaft housing and can confirm it all went well.
If I need to get the box out this is the way I will do it the same in future, I found afterwards there was a need to re check all the hoses and wires etc and it is my belief that next time I will remove the top hoses and the top picture fame rail fully as the Butec fouls when your near max lift.
I had to have the weight on the suspension to get all the top rail bolts in.
I removed the air filters as it looked like they would foul the side rails.
I also undid the radiator side mounting bolts as well as the bracing to allow it to tilt easily, all in all much better than taking the whole front end and complete lump out.

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Adamski
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#12 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by Adamski » Sun Jul 22, 2018 5:24 pm

I have done it on my V12 S3 FHC Manual. I once posted this on Jag Lovers. From memory main points but the main obstacle is getting the bell housing past the clutch assembly
Drop rear end down low enough to enable prop shaft to be slid back.
Remove exhaust but leave downpipes
Remove all interior gearbox tunnel cover.
This is the trick: Unbolt the clutch assembly bit by bit by rotating clutch assembly with big screwdriver. Patience is required.
Once all bolts are out the gearbox comes out with clutch still in it.-Easy bit!
Buy new clutch assembly including thrust bearing.
Get gearbox overhauled, you don't want to do this again.
Get the whole lot back with new clutch in the bell housing.
Tighten the clutch bolts doing your best to ensure plate is central.
On a wing and prayer and using clutch slave energised pull the bell housing in using temporary longer bolts
in 4 locations and gap between bell and block is equal (so you don't bend the shaft). Having the clutch engaged will allow plate to move and if you're lucky with splines it will pop on. Splines don't go all the length so you need to get this first bit pulled through. You may have to attempt a few times by having it in gear and rotating the output flange.
No excessive force as it could bend the shaft
Once lined up you're on the path home.
It works and my thrust bearing was so worn that it was just on the metal. Gearbox shafts were worn and hardening had gone on parts of them.
Result bliss and no moving of engine block. Mind you if you add up all the other stuff I've done over the years like heads, exhausts including manifolds, chains, water pump radiator and hoses it might been just as well to remove the lump but all this work was done over nearly 40 years of ownership.
So anyway gearbox an be removed in situ-Just!
Adam
S3 V12 E Type FHC Manual 1972-owned since 1978

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