Still many issues to solve on my series 3

[Djerome60]

Hi,

sorry to mix up many different topics but after 3 long days i thought my car will be completly ready but i'm going backward.....
I actually took my serie 3 2+2 from 1972 to the MOT and it went perfectly well except that it was atually my first test drive and i noticed that the auto gearbox was not upshifting.
I did the test of the manual but the list of possible issues is quite long. I have just ordered a vaccum regulator but i'm not sure this will cure the issue.
The oil level and vaccum hoses have been checked.
Any idea? suggestion?

Unfortunately, i have had additionnal issues today while testing the gearbox:
- Overcharging issue ; the regulator seems to works well for few secondes (i can even adjust the voltage), minutes then suddently the charge goes up to 17 volts (measure at battery and on gauge).
For your information, the alternator has just been changed and the regulator is brand new. (same symptom with my old regulator - that i changed because i thought that initially my charging issue was coming from my regulator but thjis was the alternator and therefore i kep it).
Do you think it can only come from the regulator (both)? or something else? shortcut in the wire?

- Engine cooling fan: i don't know if it's coming from the overcharging issue but during the same test the engine went too high in temp and i dicovered that the cooling fans where not engaging? i have shunted the sensor but the fans did not engaged. Relay burnt? I tested the fan and they work. I have ordered a relay we will see.

- I do not know if it has a link but the oil pressure gauge goes a bit up to 20 psi just when i turn the ignition key - engine stopped. Agin this was working fine before. Short cut?

- The horns do not work anymore as well. I can hear the relay "clicking" but nothing happen.

I was wondering if all that "sh..." was not coming from a short cut somewhere? that could even impact the transmission kickdown?

Sorry for this long email but after 3 intensive days i'm a bit down and some help would be welcome.

Thanks in advance
Jérôme

[nefematic]

Jérôme,

do not despair, apparantly you have come a long way! This is your first test drive great! Rome wasn‘t built in day and neither will your E be fault free in a few days. Take a break and enjoy your progress so far. Sorry I can‘t help with the technical stuff, keep at it one by one.

Kind regards,

Martin

[Djerome60]

Jérôme,

do not despair, apparantly you have come a long way! This is your first test drive great! Rome wasn‘t built in day and neither will your E be fault free in a few days. Take a break and enjoy your progress so far. Sorry I can‘t help with the technical stuff, keep at it one by one.

Kind regards,

Martin

Thanks Martin,

you are right and it's what i'll do.
Keep you posted.
jerôme

[Ole-xke1974]

- Overcharging issue ;
- Engine cooling fan:
- I do not know if it has a link but the oil pressure gauge goes a bit up to 20 psi just when i turn the ignition key - engine stopped. Agin this was working fine before. Short cut?
- The horns do not work anymore as well. I can hear the relay "clicking" but nothing happen.

Jerome, that's a lot of issues suddenly presenting them selves.
When that happen I always try to find a common denominator. Something that will cause all issues.

Please take a look at fuse #6. That provide voltage to most, if not all of your mentioned, functions. It feeds a green wire that I know for sure is providing 12V to the horn relay, fan relays and auto gearbox kickdown.

Worth a try.
If it is a blown fuse and if if it blows again, There's a shorted wire somewhere, which could come from all the connections you have been working on.

Good luck ........ Ole

[Djerome60]

- Overcharging issue ;
- Engine cooling fan:
- I do not know if it has a link but the oil pressure gauge goes a bit up to 20 psi just when i turn the ignition key - engine stopped. Agin this was working fine before. Short cut?
- The horns do not work anymore as well. I can hear the relay "clicking" but nothing happen.

Jerome, that's a lot of issues suddenly presenting them selves.
When that happen I always try to find a common denominator. Something that will cause all issues.

Please take a look at fuse #6. That provide voltage to most, if not all of your mentioned, functions. It feeds a green wire that I know for sure is providing 12V to the horn relay, fan relays and auto gearbox kickdown.

Worth a try.
If it is a blown fuse and if if it blows again, There's a shorted wire somewhere, which could come from all the connections you have been working on.

Good luck ........ Ole

Thanks Ole,

i have actually checked and the fuses are all ok.
Cheers
Jérôme

[mgcjag]

Hi Jerome....the fuses might look ok but you may find that they are not making proper contact in the holded...well worth taking them out and cleaning the ends with fine emery paper...and clean the holder they go into..also worth checking the earth connections...... Steve

[Ole-xke1974]

Hi Jerome....the fuses might look ok but you may find that they are not making proper contact in the holded...well worth taking them out and cleaning the ends with fine emery paper...and clean the holder they go into..also worth checking the earth connections...... Steve

You can also measure the voltage on both sides. If the fuse holder is not making contact you should see the difference. If the contact is weak, you may not see any voltage drop until you start using some current and the fuse/holder will most likely get warm.

[Djerome60]

Hi Jerome....the fuses might look ok but you may find that they are not making proper contact in the holded...well worth taking them out and cleaning the ends with fine emery paper...and clean the holder they go into..also worth checking the earth connections...... Steve

Thanks. You are right to mention it as i already faced similar issue once. I actually clean the holder and replace all fuses by brand new ones.
Jerome

[Djerome60]

Hi Jerome....the fuses might look ok but you may find that they are not making proper contact in the holded...well worth taking them out and cleaning the ends with fine emery paper...and clean the holder they go into..also worth checking the earth connections...... Steve

You can also measure the voltage on both sides. If the fuse holder is not making contact you should see the difference. If the contact is weak, you may not see any voltage drop until you start using some current and the fuse/holder will most likely get warm.

Ok i'll do it tonight.
Keep you posted.
Jerome

[jagwit]

Jerome

Many of us has been where you find yourself now. We know what its like. It seems that this car will teach you perseverance if nothing else.

You clearly still have some charging issues which must be resolved. Before, it was not charging at all, and now its overcharging.

Please do this check: While its over charging (17V) pull off F- wire (Brown/green) at the regulator. This should "switch off" the alternator and voltage should drop to battery voltage (12.6V or so). Then we take the next test.

If your fan relay is original, replace it anyway, either with two 20A relays(this option is better), each driving 1 fan or one 30A relay driving both fans.

Horn: On the horn relay. Test if you have 12V on connector C2 (Brown) wire. Then while someone presses the horn (with ign on), test if you get 12V on the C1 terminal - Purple / Yellow wires. If you do, the horns are dead (or not earthed well). If not, the relay is not well.

[Djerome60]

Jerome

Many of us has been where you find yourself now. We know what its like. It seems that this car will teach you perseverance if nothing else.

You clearly still have some charging issues which must be resolved. Before, it was not charging at all, and now its overcharging.

Please do this check: While its over charging (17V) pull off F- wire (Brown/green) at the regulator. This should "switch off" the alternator and voltage should drop to battery voltage (12.6V or so). Then we take the next test.

If your fan relay is original, replace it anyway, either with two 20A relays(this option is better), each driving 1 fan or one 30A relay driving both fans.

Horn: On the horn relay. Test if you have 12V on connector C2 (Brown) wire. Then while someone presses the horn (with ign on), test if you get 12V on the C1 terminal - Purple / Yellow wires. If you do, the horns are dead (or not earthed well). If not, the relay is not well.

Thanks Philip,

i'll run the tested tonight and keep you posted.
Keep you posted.
Jérôme

[politeperson]

Issues, you should see my friends S3 FHC auto issues. He has only owned it for 1 month and the whole thing is in bits. I saw it today at luchtime to see how he was getting on.

The car is in good condition, body and interior superb, low mileage, never welded, no rust with a wadge of service history, however, all the bits that make it work are 20-45 years old.

So his solution is-"change everything to make it reliable."

So far this has meant alternator, water pump, filters, exhaust, manifold gaskets, control boxes, all brakes (everything), new electronic control unit mounted not on top of the engine, new suspension (everything), new cooling system (everything-millions of silly little tubes rubber and mild steel and clips!), all ujs, fuse box, engine wiring loom, carbs rebuilt, rack, mounts, pumps, wheels, tyres, bearings. IRS out -rebuilt. Engine and box still in! new masters and slaves. Loads of stuff that I have forgotten about. £13k worth of bits. So hopefully it will make it to the Le Mans Classic.











Hope you dont have to go this far.

[jagwit]

So his solution is-"change everything to make it reliable."

I see he is changing shocks as well......

Please ask him to have a look at this: Shocks tearing IRS cage

[politeperson]

Flamin 'eck Phillip.

Will do. Thanks.

[Djerome60]

Hi Jerome....the fuses might look ok but you may find that they are not making proper contact in the holded...well worth taking them out and cleaning the ends with fine emery paper...and clean the holder they go into..also worth checking the earth connections...... Steve

All fuses and connection checked with 12v in and out.
Thank regards
Jerome

[Djerome60]

Jerome

Many of us has been where you find yourself now. We know what its like. It seems that this car will teach you perseverance if nothing else.

You clearly still have some charging issues which must be resolved. Before, it was not charging at all, and now its overcharging.

Please do this check: While its over charging (17V) pull off F- wire (Brown/green) at the regulator. This should "switch off" the alternator and voltage should drop to battery voltage (12.6V or so). Then we take the next test.

If your fan relay is original, replace it anyway, either with two 20A relays(this option is better), each driving 1 fan or one 30A relay driving both fans.

Horn: On the horn relay. Test if you have 12V on connector C2 (Brown) wire. Then while someone presses the horn (with ign on), test if you get 12V on the C1 terminal - Purple / Yellow wires. If you do, the horns are dead (or not earthed well). If not, the relay is not well.

Thanks Philip,

i'll run the tested tonight and keep you posted.
Keep you posted.
Jérôme

Philip,

Test done and when i remove the f- the voltage comes back to normal.
Is the regulator guilty?
Thanks again
Jerome

[jagwit]

There is one more - but highly unlikely - possibility. This is that the regulator can not sense the alternator output voltage and this can happen if the Brown/Red wire terminal somehow does not make good contact with the F+ terminal of the regulator. If possible, with ignition on, measure if you get "12V" on the MALE terminal of the regulator itself without disturbing the female terminal (which might just eliminate this problem - if this is the problem). Don't measure on the female terminal that slides onto the male, measure on the male terminal itself. This female terminal might not be making good contact with the male terminal. Although very unlikely.


Otherwise, I recon its faulty. This is what us engineers call "infant mortality". It worked for a short while and then broke.

[Ole-xke1974]

This is what us engineers call "infant mortality". It worked for a short while and then broke.

And that's why we have a warranty :-) 1 or 3 years make little difference to the manufacturer, but we all prefer 3 over 1.

[Djerome60]

There is one more - but highly unlikely - possibility. This is that the regulator can not sense the alternator output voltage and this can happen if the Brown/Red wire terminal somehow does not make good contact with the F+ terminal of the regulator. If possible, with ignition on, measure if you get "12V" on the MALE terminal of the regulator itself without disturbing the female terminal (which might just eliminate this problem - if this is the problem). Don't measure on the female terminal that slides onto the male, measure on the male terminal itself. This female terminal might not be making good contact with the male terminal. Although very unlikely.


Otherwise, I recon its faulty. This is what us engineers call "infant mortality". It worked for a short while and then broke.

I'll run the test tonight. I have ordered a regulator anyway to replce the faulty one.
Thanks
Jérôme

[baganz.sven@web.de]

Hi,

on my S3 the fan and horn fuse is not in the dashbord.
It is a single 50A fuse in the engine wire harness, right side of the engine above the battery.

Did you check this fuse?

Sven